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Old 07-08-2022, 10:58 AM   #1
Woodie1
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Default 2 tooth steering column tube

A friend has a 29 Model A with a 2 tooth steering gear. I noticed the housing that runs the length of the column is loose. I tried to tighten the clamp bolt but it is still loose. Any idea why it won't tighten. I know this can have an affect on the timing.
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Old 07-08-2022, 11:44 AM   #2
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: 2 tooth steering column tube

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Originally Posted by Woodie1 View Post
A friend has a 29 Model A with a 2 tooth steering gear. I noticed the housing that runs the length of the column is loose. I tried to tighten the clamp bolt but it is still loose. Any idea why it won't tighten. I know this can have an affect on the timing.
Wrong clamp? Pinch bolt bottoming out?? Housing not correct -or altered??? Not much to go on without a visual inspection.
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Old 07-08-2022, 12:05 PM   #3
Woodie1
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Default Re: 2 tooth steering column tube

I never gave a thought to the bolt being too long. I'll have to check that. Also have to see if there is a slot in the tube so it will crush down. Thanks Brent.
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Old 07-08-2022, 05:53 PM   #4
Marshall V. Daut
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Default Re: 2 tooth steering column tube

There are two places that secure the steering column mast jacket (tube). You have identified one. Even if the jacket is loose there, the upper steering column clamp should be more than sufficient to keep the jacket from turning. If the rubber strip is missing inside this clamp, you will not be able to tighten the jacket at the upper end. It's best to get both places tight and not rely on one or the other to do the job.
While you're down at the lower clamp area, ensure that the column's jacket is seated against the steering box, no gap between them. Oftentimes after a rebuild, the jacket is not shoved down until it seats. This results in the upper column's quadrant tops rubbing against the bottom of the steering wheel = hard steering, difficulty installing the spider and spring at the bottom of the light switch. To check, simply slide the lower clamp up an 1/2 inch or so and ensure that the bottom of the tube is resting against the top of the steering box. If not, loosen the upper clamp bolts and force the jacket to seat. Double check that the spark and throttle arms are in the middle position, not leaning left or right. Then tighten both clamps.
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Old 07-08-2022, 06:30 PM   #5
rotorwrench
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Default Re: 2 tooth steering column tube

The clamp on the gas tank is supposed to have an anti-rattle strip inserted between the column and the clamp. If it is the correct thickness, the the clamp should retain the column securely. Parts sources sell these rubber strips but I don't know how well they work from one source to another.

The 1929 Column is unique to that year model on the 2-tooth steering gears. In early 1930 production the column was changed for the 1930/31 style wheel but the length was almost the same with consideration for the different spark & throttle lever quadrant. In February of 1930, the steering shaft was increased by approximately 1-inch so the column also had to be longer. Some of the older model A cars have been changed over from 7-tooth steering gear assemblies to 2-tooth. Some of these are shortened versions of the later 1930/31 set up.

You never know what you will find on these old cars.
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Old 07-08-2022, 06:45 PM   #6
John
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Default Re: 2 tooth steering column tube

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Yes, there is a slot in the lower end of the steering column tube to allow a compression fit on the upper steering gear bearing race. If it is difficult to "pinch" the tube tight enough with the original clamp, just get the proper size muffler clamp and use that in place of the original Model A clamp to compress the tube. Once tightened as needed, the muffler clamp can be removed and replaced with the original style clamp.

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