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Old 01-27-2013, 11:45 AM   #21
Richard Wilson
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Funny story but similar symptom. When we were kids my brother put a crab apple in to the gas tank of dad's Model A. Dad would drive a week or maybe 5 minutes and the engine would suddenly die. Took dad a long time to figure out the problem as the apple would roll around and some times it would be exactly over the outlet shutting off the gas flow. Take a flashlight and check out the inside of your tank.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:57 AM   #22
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Holy Cow!!!
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:05 PM   #23
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Could be a bad coil
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:17 PM   #24
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Thanks for the suggestions, Guys! Keep 'em coming...there's an answer in here somewhere, I know it! And I'm pretty sure it's not a crabapple in my fuel tank...still wondering if that brother survived Father's discovery? lol

Interesting suggestions about a bad coil which I got new from Snyder's. Apart from replacing it, is there any way to TEST a coil? Also, what about condensers? How would you test one of those?
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:19 PM   #25
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

I will say intermittent short, probably the distributor plate as mentioned several times; I'll be surprised if it's a fuel problem. I have always believed, and it has proven true in my experience, that most "carburetor problems" are electrical.
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgwilson904 View Post
what about condensers? How would you test one of those?

Simple.

A higher end voltmeter will usually have a capacitor test function. Or, you can purchase a capacitor tester.

The condenser in your car is basically a .25 uF capacitor. It should test at or near this value, and should show no leakage if good. Leakage is tested with an ohm meter (or a voltmeter with ohms setting).

When initially connecting the capacitor for leak test, the resistance (ohms) should be pretty low, but will charge quickly and show infinity (many megohms) and look like an "open circuit" within a second. if not, then it is leaky.

You can use a heat gun to heat the capacitor while under test and check to see if its value or leakage change with heat. If good- Its value should stay within 5%, and should never show signs of leakage regardless of temperature.
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:33 PM   #27
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Check the voltage coming out of the generator. You could be overcharging the system causing the condensor and coil to get hot and cut out.

My two Cents worth. Tinbasher
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:49 PM   #28
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

We are having the exact same problems on this vehicle as we speak for the last few weeks and still cannot find the answer!!! But we are moving on!!! Been on here under "backfire" which it doesn't do DOUBLE THE PRIZE!!!!
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:53 PM   #29
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In a way you are lucky to have a 10 minute interval where the engine dies which gives time for diagnosis.

No matter how many thousands of items are replaced, verified, adjusted, checked, tightened, cleaned, or repaired, please remember that the engine stalling end of the line is "always" in the combustion chamber.

The combustion chamber is like Harry Truman, mostly ignored; but this is where the Buck stops.

If one finds either an "electrical" problem or "fuel" problem where it really counts in the combustion chamber, & you are 50% ahead in valuable repair time & costs.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:22 PM   #30
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

as mentioned in my above post install a spark tester inline of the coli wire and observe the intensity and pattern when acting up vs running good to determine if the problem lies in the ignition
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:30 PM   #31
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Coil!
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:42 PM   #32
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 700rpm View Post
I have always believed, and it has proven true in my experience, that most "carburetor problems" are electrical.
Now thats a statement! I love it!



And that is one sweet double!
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:07 PM   #33
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I would drop the exhaust and try it , the muffler could be causing your symptoms .
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:15 PM   #34
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Bad coil. When it heats up it quits, then works when cooled a bit. Send it in for repair or find another coil .

My 2 cents worth.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:20 PM   #35
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Mine had similar problems. Overheated sometimes, a lot of backfiring. I pulled out the aftermarket screen in the fuel tank outlet after I figured out there is a screen in the top of the fuel bowl. I suspected that junk was being pulled against the screen choking off the fuel flow. In the end it was the carb float level being set to low. Henry's filtering system seems to work well. I wound up getting a quarter bowl of junk in the bowl.

Try this site. Good info!
http://www.model-a.org/troubleshooting_chart.html
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:37 PM   #36
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Check to see if at any point your fuel line is very close to the manifold or exhaust pipe. You could be getting heat from their at any outside temp which might cause vaporlocking.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:45 PM   #37
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Default Re: Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

Would an overheated coil cool down enough in ten minutes to alleviate the problem and continue on down the road? I've never experienced a hot coil, so I am just curious.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:53 PM   #38
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I always like Tom's ,what I feel are well founded diagnostic habits, and one thing I have learned is Test, Don't guess. I didn't see or read anything here if the coil was heated and tested. Possible breakdown after heating would cause the symptoms you describe. I also don't like parts changes with out testing the suspected parts that may be bad. If you suspected fuel delivery problems install a small auxiliary gas tank(quart or half gallon ) and go test drive. Heat can do funny things as far as resistance in circuits as well. Good Luck and DON'T walk away from a challenge!
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:59 PM   #39
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I had a professionally restored popout switch give me the problem you described. I had to stop 3 times in 50 miles on the maiden voyage of my town sedan. I replaced the popout switch with the reproduction on-off switch and it has run fine for the last 16 years.
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:04 PM   #40
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When it starts misbehaving this way, twisting the choke rod to add fuel to the carb seems to have little effect. Pulling the choke rod out about two-thirds of the way (flooding it with gas) will cause it to sputter a little less and limp a little farther.
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If what you say here that pulling the choke helps, then it is gas not electrical. If it was electrical pulling the choke would have no effect.

Check and see if the gas line is in the carb or filter to far and blocking the flow of gas.

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