The Ford Barn

PhoenixFear · 07-24-2013, 11:51 PM

I have a local place to me here in San Diego willing to lengthen my driveshaft on my '33 and perhaps balance it. However I'm debating if I should have that done or find a better shop to build me a driveshaft. I had to grind out a bit of material on the shaft to get the pin out (.06"). I don't think it will give me any trouble but I'm not sure. I'm also not sure if a shaft can be successfully lengthened. I need it lengthened 1.75", since I have a 4-cyl shaft and need a V8 shaft. Any opinions or local driveline places to take this to would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Terry,OH · 07-25-2013, 06:40 AM

To shorten or lengthen the shaft is no big deal. To find the shop with the equipment is large enough is a bigger deal. Weld repair the ground down area and repair the hole for the pin, or find another rear end of the drive shaft (I have a 10 spline, send PM if interested). Have the rear end of the shaft removed and the repair welded area lathed down, add a lengthening adapter between the repaired rear section and the front drive shaft section make sure you have a good tight fit to both ends of the adapter. At this point you want to make sure you have the correct over all length. I would assemble the drive shaft, rear end, correct torque tube, front bearing spacer washer and use the speedometer gear and it's retaining clip as a guide to the proper length. The speedo gear and the retaining clip are not tight to each other, the gear should be able to move about 1/8 to 3/16". Then after making sure the length is correct have the two final welds made making sure the front of the shaft is straight to the adapter and the final old repaired splined rear end. I have never seen a balance weight welded to these small diameter drive shafts, I am not sure they have to be balanced, but it will not hurt. To make sure the adapter and the repaired rear section are in line with the front of the drive shaft is very important. So a tight overlap joint fit is necessary. Suggest you leave a V groove at the two weld areas and have three adjacent rings of weld at each joint one at the V groove and one on each side of the V groove and overlapping the first.

PhoenixFear · 07-25-2013, 11:36 PM

I built up more weld around the shaft and ground it flush. I'll have the shop lengthen it. I have both the 4-cyl torque tube and V-8 torque tube to compare, and they measure out 1.75" difference. The stock 4-cyl driveshaft is 1.75" shorter than the 4-cyl torque tube, and 3.5" shorter than the V-8 torque tube. So I'll lengthen it 1.75". After the shop looked at the shaft again they decided they couldn't balance it, but I figured it couldn't be balanced anyway. Instead they'll make sure it is straight and true. The guy there said it was .050 out of round but I told him the pilot hole I made so that his lathe could put it on was probably off, I don't have the best tools to get an exact pilot hole.

1931 flamingo · 07-26-2013, 12:20 PM

Does not Dick Spadaro offer a new one that can be cut to length??
Paul in CT

42merc · 07-26-2013, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Does not Dick Spadaro offer a new one that can be cut to length??
Paul in CT

I believe the Spadaro kit has been off the market for some time.

Barn Junk · 07-26-2013, 02:58 PM

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Seems like there is getting to be a shortage of 32-34 drive shafts. Has anyone tried shortening a fairly common 35-36+ tapered hollow drive shaft? I know the taper presents some issues for alignment but with some sort of transition piece welded in with post straightening/balancing it seems it could be possible.

PhoenixFear · 07-26-2013, 09:54 PM

The only thing I could think would be a good option for the '32-34 would be to buy the 6-10 spline adapter or get a 6-spline end and get the front 6-spline piece and weld both to a piece of steel tube. I believe '35 had 10 splines on it so it wouldn't work with '32-34 gears.

Terry,OH · 07-27-2013, 06:09 AM

I believe the late 32 through 35 pinions are 10 spline the change to 6 spline is a bit later, 36 or so.

JM 35 Sedan · 07-27-2013, 06:56 AM

I have several sets of splined ends removed from '35-'36 tubular driveshafts when I was making old school headers. These splined ends could be reused to make a driveshaft similar to what Dick Spadaro use to offer. Send me a pm if interested in getting a set of these splined ends.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attach...8&d=1353182945

07-24-2013, 11:51 PM	#1
PhoenixFear Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Utica, MI Posts: 361	Driveshaft options '33 I have a local place to me here in San Diego willing to lengthen my driveshaft on my '33 and perhaps balance it. However I'm debating if I should have that done or find a better shop to build me a driveshaft. I had to grind out a bit of material on the shaft to get the pin out (.06"). I don't think it will give me any trouble but I'm not sure. I'm also not sure if a shaft can be successfully lengthened. I need it lengthened 1.75", since I have a 4-cyl shaft and need a V8 shaft. Any opinions or local driveline places to take this to would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

07-25-2013, 06:40 AM	#2
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,750	Re: Driveshaft options '33 To shorten or lengthen the shaft is no big deal. To find the shop with the equipment is large enough is a bigger deal. Weld repair the ground down area and repair the hole for the pin, or find another rear end of the drive shaft (I have a 10 spline, send PM if interested). Have the rear end of the shaft removed and the repair welded area lathed down, add a lengthening adapter between the repaired rear section and the front drive shaft section make sure you have a good tight fit to both ends of the adapter. At this point you want to make sure you have the correct over all length. I would assemble the drive shaft, rear end, correct torque tube, front bearing spacer washer and use the speedometer gear and it's retaining clip as a guide to the proper length. The speedo gear and the retaining clip are not tight to each other, the gear should be able to move about 1/8 to 3/16". Then after making sure the length is correct have the two final welds made making sure the front of the shaft is straight to the adapter and the final old repaired splined rear end. I have never seen a balance weight welded to these small diameter drive shafts, I am not sure they have to be balanced, but it will not hurt. To make sure the adapter and the repaired rear section are in line with the front of the drive shaft is very important. So a tight overlap joint fit is necessary. Suggest you leave a V groove at the two weld areas and have three adjacent rings of weld at each joint one at the V groove and one on each side of the V groove and overlapping the first.

07-25-2013, 11:36 PM	#3
PhoenixFear Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Utica, MI Posts: 361	Re: Driveshaft options '33 I built up more weld around the shaft and ground it flush. I'll have the shop lengthen it. I have both the 4-cyl torque tube and V-8 torque tube to compare, and they measure out 1.75" difference. The stock 4-cyl driveshaft is 1.75" shorter than the 4-cyl torque tube, and 3.5" shorter than the V-8 torque tube. So I'll lengthen it 1.75". After the shop looked at the shaft again they decided they couldn't balance it, but I figured it couldn't be balanced anyway. Instead they'll make sure it is straight and true. The guy there said it was .050 out of round but I told him the pilot hole I made so that his lathe could put it on was probably off, I don't have the best tools to get an exact pilot hole.

07-26-2013, 12:20 PM	#4
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Driveshaft options '33 Does not Dick Spadaro offer a new one that can be cut to length?? Paul in CT

07-26-2013, 02:58 PM	#6
Barn Junk Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: WA state Posts: 771	Re: Driveshaft options '33 Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Seems like there is getting to be a shortage of 32-34 drive shafts. Has anyone tried shortening a fairly common 35-36+ tapered hollow drive shaft? I know the taper presents some issues for alignment but with some sort of transition piece welded in with post straightening/balancing it seems it could be possible.

07-26-2013, 09:54 PM	#7
PhoenixFear Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Utica, MI Posts: 361	Re: Driveshaft options '33 The only thing I could think would be a good option for the '32-34 would be to buy the 6-10 spline adapter or get a 6-spline end and get the front 6-spline piece and weld both to a piece of steel tube. I believe '35 had 10 splines on it so it wouldn't work with '32-34 gears.

07-27-2013, 06:09 AM	#8
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,750	Re: Driveshaft options '33 I believe the late 32 through 35 pinions are 10 spline the change to 6 spline is a bit later, 36 or so.

07-27-2013, 06:56 AM	#9
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: Driveshaft options '33 I have several sets of splined ends removed from '35-'36 tubular driveshafts when I was making old school headers. These splined ends could be reused to make a driveshaft similar to what Dick Spadaro use to offer. Send me a pm if interested in getting a set of these splined ends. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attach...8&d=1353182945 __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein* Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 07-27-2013 at 07:07 AM.