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Old 06-02-2020, 02:09 AM   #1
DRG-ler
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Default Which thread?

Hello guys, a quick question.
The screws that attach the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold are worn out on me. I do not want to order these screws separately in the USA now (coming from Berlin) but buy them here in a screw shop. Can someone quickly tell me what thread and what degree of hardness these screws have?

I think 5/16 "-18. Am I right? I would need a tap to cut the thread.

Thanks Andy
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Old 06-02-2020, 06:29 AM   #2
Mike Peters
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Default Re: Which thread?

From the " Ford Model A Standard hardware 1928-1931" By Mick isbell:
Part# 20718. Intake manifold to exhaust manifold bolt. 5/16"-18 x 3/4". Plain finish.
No mention of hardness. I would personally go with a plain unmarked bolt head.
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Old 06-02-2020, 06:39 AM   #3
chrs1961815
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Default Re: Which thread?

Be careful removing them - they like to break.
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Old 06-02-2020, 07:40 AM   #4
DRG-ler
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Default Re: Which thread?

Yes, it has already happened. Fortunately, the exhaust manifold is broken, welded and warped anyway, so I don't have to worry about the broken screw anymore.

But so that they don't tear off again so quickly, I will buy more stable screws this time.


Thanks
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:13 PM   #5
rocket1
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Default Re: Which thread?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRG-ler View Post
Yes, it has already happened. Fortunately, the exhaust manifold is broken, welded and warped anyway, so I don't have to worry about the broken screw anymore.

But so that they don't tear off again so quickly, I will buy more stable screws this time.


Thanks
I would not use a hardened bolt,if it ever snaps it would be more difficult to drill out and tap.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:39 PM   #6
Chuck Sea/Tac
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Default Re: Which thread?

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Use never seize
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Old 06-03-2020, 07:44 AM   #7
DRG-ler
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Default Re: Which thread?

Seize?
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Old 06-03-2020, 08:12 AM   #8
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Default Re: Which thread?

"Never Seez" It's a paste like material that helps keep the screw/bolt threads from seizing (binding, freezing up, as in "won't let go") due to heat and rust. Can buy most anywhere car parts are sold.


https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NS.../dp/B000KZCU26

Last edited by MickeyT; 06-03-2020 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 06-03-2020, 08:35 AM   #9
Bob Bidonde
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Default Re: Which thread?

To avoid cracking the tabs off of the intake manifold, I urge you to connect both manifolds together using the 5/16 bolts before mounting the manifolds on the car. If the gasket surfaces of each manifold are not true (flat) to each other:
> Have the manifolds machined flat while connected as a set;
> Or install the manifolds with the two 5/16 bolts left out. Measure the gap between the intake & exhaust manifolds and shim it closed. Then install the bolts;
> Or do nothing to close any gap and install the bolts loose so as not to clamp-up the gap. If you tighten the 5/16 bolts with a gap, the tabs on the intake manifold will crack.

The function of the 5/16 bolts is hold the intake manifold against the exhaust manifold so there is a hot spot for efficient engine warmup in cold weather. I have been running with a gap between the manifolds for several years without issues.
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:50 PM   #10
DRG-ler
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Default Re: Which thread?

Quote:
"use never seize."
Quote:
"Never Seez"
All right, now it clicked. The translator played a trick on me. Yes ... I will definitely use copper paste. This is a means that is common here. I think it will be something like "Never Seez".

Quote:
To avoid cracking the tabs off of the intake manifold, I urge you to connect both manifolds together using the 5/16 bolts before mounting the manifolds on the car.

I will do so, thanks for the tip.
I once looked at the old exhaust manifold. The area of ​​the internal outlets for cylinders 2 and 3 was rotated by approximately 1 degree. There was a gap of 1mm. Such a manifold cannot be installed properly! The flap of cylinder 4 had already been broken off and welded again. I will avoid such a problem. Tomorrow I will get my intake manifold back from the metal coater, then I will screw the intake and exhaust manifold together and take them to the engine manufacturer. This should then mill the entire sealing surface flat. I think so prepared should keep things going forever.

Thanks Andy
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