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02-13-2020, 10:17 AM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2
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New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Hello,
I am new to the Model A and the Ford Barn but have already found lots of info here. Got some other cars and bikes but no one seems so well explored as the Model A! I got my -31 Coupe a couple of years ago but haven't been able to start on the project until recently. It is fairly complete but missing some ignition parts and other stuff so I haven't started it yet. I purchased Les Andrews Mechanics Handbook which has been of great help but I still have lots of questions! My current focus is to start up the engine, then look over brakes and chassie. The body is off so very easy to get to everything. Before trying to start up the engine I pulled the oil pan and that was lucky, what a mess! Saw the trick to drop the pan on the floor to release the baffle and that worked like a charm. But apart from the baffle there were also the spring under the oil pump, corroded in pieces and also another piece I don't know were it belongs, see pics. So, some questions: 1. This little clip was found in the oil pan, what is it? See pics below. 2. The oil pump cover was heavily corroded at the outer dia, can that be ground down to the dia of the oil pump housing or does that affect the suction ability of the pump? 3. Same with the tin cover over the pump net, can it be shortened a bit to remove the corroded bottom part? 4. What is the thread size in the block just outside the oil pump? Les Andrews book says it is some strange thread I've never heard of. 5. Is there supposed to be gaskets at the oil pump bottom cover and at the tin cover where it attaches to the pump body? 6. One of the ears for the screw that secure the tin cover to the pump body is broken in half. It was a screw installed and it engages the threads in the piece that is remaining on the pump but didn't need much effort to remove. Can I leave this screw out or repair the pump with JB Weld or similar? Don't want to weld on the pump and don't want to drop a screw or have any JB Weld break off. 7. The valve clearance is from .030" to .040"(!) on all valves. I have inspected the cam from underneath and no wear on the cam, looks and feels good. It is non-adjustable lifters. What can cause this enourmous clearence? 8. Is "Emergency brake" the same as the parking brake? Is it really used as Emergency brake (ie. is the service brake that unreliable that an Emergency brake is needed?)? Sorry, lots of questions but I am really thrilled by this little car, so simple and fun to work on. Thanks, Hans Sweden |
02-13-2020, 10:35 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 5,848
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Could that be the plug on the outside of the engine? It is ⅛"-27 NPT pipe thread. Referred to ⅜-27F-PTF
Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 02-13-2020 at 10:42 AM. |
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02-13-2020, 10:47 AM | #3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 1,092
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Trying to help where I can:
Quote:
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02-13-2020, 11:36 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 970
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Original valve lash is .012 .013 so wear is responsible for the rest.
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02-13-2020, 11:41 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 8,741
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
The vendors have all the parts for the oil pump.
https://modelastore.com/engine/oil-pumps-pans-related Bob |
02-13-2020, 03:25 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,156
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
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02-13-2020, 04:52 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,959
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
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02-13-2020, 05:12 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Germany, near Aachen
Posts: 1,153
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Guten Abend Hans.
I'm only guest here, but I think, you're at all welcome. - I can give you some answers: The jacket of the oil pump ensures that no air is sucked in whenvI can give you some answers. The jacket of the oil pump ensures that no air is sucked in when drive during a corner or when the oil level is low. Shortening is not a good idea. I soldered the corrosion holes. Oil pump seals are not installed in my engine (1928). Valve play increases due to the addition of oil carbon or wear. The handbrake is designed to lock the car. In an emergency, also for hard blocking the brake shoe hits and bends. Therefore not suitable for braking while driving. Viel Erfolg!
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
02-14-2020, 02:02 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Walla Walla, WA
Posts: 1,045
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Like others have said, the hand brake on all but the early 28's is not really an emergency brake as such. You can really turn your rear brakes into a mess by using the parking brake as an emergency brake while moving. It works great to secure a car at rest, but the bands and the supports for the parking brake lack totally in strength for a car in motion.
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02-14-2020, 11:14 AM | #10 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Bend Or.
Posts: 1,056
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Quote:
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Bill Worden 1929 Roadster 1929 Briggs Town Sedan 1930 Closed Cab pickup Smith Motor Compressor 1951 Ford F1 High Desert Model A's |
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02-14-2020, 12:01 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,340
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Re the clip in the photos, not an A part unless it was part of a piston skirt expander of some sort. Look at the pistons and see if others have something like it installed. Otherwise, something that got dropped in the pan at some point and was not removed.
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02-16-2020, 02:20 PM | #12 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Hello and thanks for the replies, much appreciated.
I cleaned out the oil pan and that was the worst mess I have seen in a oil pan! There were some pinholes in the pan and the bottom of the baffles dividers looked liked something had eaten on them. Must have been a really bad acid in that pan. So I have to tear the engine apart totally for a check. Another of the projects in bits and pieces... I'll check the pistons for any signs of clips like the one found, otherwise I'll donate it to the local Mercedes club. Yes, it is the plug on the outside of the block and it is confirmed 1/8" NPT, thanks. Never heard of it referred to as 3/8"-27F-PTF. ”A bit” is 3/8” in this case. It looks like the oil pan rat has chewed on the pump tin cover as well. But no need to shorten the tin cover or other parts, I checked some US vendors and all parts seem to be available and to fair prices as well. But how is quality? My experience with aftermarket parts tells me most is junk and can maybe be used as raw material and needs adjustment or modification to some extent. Is that the same for Model A parts? Werner, I see you are from Germany, do you know of any good parts supplier in Germany or within EU? US currency exchange rates is quite bad now so if available in Europe I am glad for any hints. And finally, this is my 3rd attempt to reply to this post, first disappeared when I previewed, the second just vanished in the middle of writing, is this a known bug or am I just out of luck (again…)? Hans |
02-16-2020, 02:50 PM | #13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Germany, near Aachen
Posts: 1,153
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Re: New to the forum and questions (lot!)
Guten Abend Hans.
The parts sold here in G. come from the USA dealers. I order there very often. The quality of the US products was good as it should be in 90% of the parts.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
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