The Ford Barn

redmodelt · 03-11-2017, 03:30 PM

Aside from replacing the gimp in the channel, does the window regulator have to be removed to install new glass? Looks like the divider channel has to come out in any case?
Thanks

mtflat · 03-11-2017, 06:12 PM

I've done several and think I did it different every time. The divider needs to be loosened and/or removed. There is a screw in the door channel at the top and nut/bolt inside the door.

I've had regulators out for refurbishing but I don't believe it is necessary to get the glass changed. Disconnect the channel from the two points and it should come down and out.

If my memory is lagging someone will be along to set us straight.

redmodelt · 03-11-2017, 07:02 PM

Thank you. The first one I did, took everything apart so was hoping there would be an easier way to do it. I'll take the divider out and give it a go.

Barry-ct · 03-11-2017, 07:02 PM

MT has it correct. Regulator stays in place. Division bar has to be loosened or removed to get the glass in. Not a fun project.

Ross F-1 · 03-11-2017, 07:06 PM

MT is right, take out the screw at the top of the divider, and two bolts at the bottom, swing the bottom forward (don't need to pull it out). No need to take the regulator out. Take a picture of how the two arms connect to the lower channel so you can refer to it.

(I type too slow!)

1948F-1Pickup · 03-11-2017, 08:22 PM

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I just did this job on the driver's side door glass 2 weeks ago.
I had the regulator out to replace it. It doesn't need to be out
to R&R the door glass, however.
Unbolt the bottom attachment for the guide/slide/divider.
That's about all the trickiness there is. (besides needing a 3rd
hand to maintain a grip on the loose glass)
The smaller your hands and arms the easier it is in those
confines inside the door.

I found that removing the bottom channel from the old glass
and installing it onto the new glass infinitely more of a PITA.
(Prior owner had siliconed it into the channel & cleaning that
mess up was time consuming.

Oh, and in my opinion, that factory regulator geometry is
not quite right. There is a tight spot when I'm rolling down
the window about 2-2.5" from the bottom, just before the
glass is even with the door. It can't be explained by the
newness of my left side regulator or the otherwise free
gliding of the glass in the guides when the regulator isn't
connected. (My right side glass does the exact same thing
in the exact same spot when you're rolling it down and all
that stuff is original)
I did experience some difficulty in connecting up the
new regulator to the window channel..... I'll look more
closely at my suspicions when I get around to rehabbing
the passenger side in the future.
stuff

redmodelt · 03-11-2017, 10:22 PM

Thanks everyone. I replaced the glass. Moved the divider out of the way which was a task because of the old hard vent window seals and it's bottom mounting flange was on top side of the door flange, I reinstalled it on the bottom, later when I redo it I might put back on top. Even with my smallish hands they got pretty banged up. I just wanted to put the new glass in because the old glass had too many cracks and breaks. I will need to get the vent window gaskets, I have the rest of the part and will redo at a later drier date.

03-11-2017, 03:30 PM	#1
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	1948 F2 (F1 the same) door window glass replacement Aside from replacing the gimp in the channel, does the window regulator have to be removed to install new glass? Looks like the divider channel has to come out in any case? Thanks __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!

03-11-2017, 06:12 PM	#2
mtflat Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kalispell Montana Posts: 344	Re: 1948 F2 (F1 the same) door window glass replacement I've done several and think I did it different every time. The divider needs to be loosened and/or removed. There is a screw in the door channel at the top and nut/bolt inside the door. I've had regulators out for refurbishing but I don't believe it is necessary to get the glass changed. Disconnect the channel from the two points and it should come down and out. If my memory is lagging someone will be along to set us straight.

03-11-2017, 07:02 PM	#3
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: 1948 F2 (F1 the same) door window glass replacement Thank you. The first one I did, took everything apart so was hoping there would be an easier way to do it. I'll take the divider out and give it a go. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!

03-11-2017, 07:02 PM	#4
Barry-ct Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Newington, Connecticut Posts: 1,374	Re: 1948 F2 (F1 the same) door window glass replacement MT has it correct. Regulator stays in place. Division bar has to be loosened or removed to get the glass in. Not a fun project. __________________ Barry 50 F-1

03-11-2017, 07:06 PM	#5
Ross F-1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: NM Posts: 2,438	Re: 1948 F2 (F1 the same) door window glass replacement MT is right, take out the screw at the top of the divider, and two bolts at the bottom, swing the bottom forward (don't need to pull it out). No need to take the regulator out. Take a picture of how the two arms connect to the lower channel so you can refer to it. (I type too slow!) __________________ '52 F-1, EAB flathead

03-11-2017, 08:22 PM	#6
1948F-1Pickup Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Socal Posts: 795	Re: 1948 F2 (F1 the same) door window glass replacement Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I just did this job on the driver's side door glass 2 weeks ago. I had the regulator out to replace it. It doesn't need to be out to R&R the door glass, however. Unbolt the bottom attachment for the guide/slide/divider. That's about all the trickiness there is. (besides needing a 3rd hand to maintain a grip on the loose glass) The smaller your hands and arms the easier it is in those confines inside the door. I found that removing the bottom channel from the old glass and installing it onto the new glass infinitely more of a PITA. (Prior owner had siliconed it into the channel & cleaning that mess up was time consuming. Oh, and in my opinion, that factory regulator geometry is not quite right. There is a tight spot when I'm rolling down the window about 2-2.5" from the bottom, just before the glass is even with the door. It can't be explained by the newness of my left side regulator or the otherwise free gliding of the glass in the guides when the regulator isn't connected. (My right side glass does the exact same thing in the exact same spot when you're rolling it down and all that stuff is original) I did experience some difficulty in connecting up the new regulator to the window channel..... I'll look more closely at my suspicions when I get around to rehabbing the passenger side in the future. stuff Last edited by 1948F-1Pickup; 03-11-2017 at 08:36 PM.

03-11-2017, 10:22 PM	#7
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: 1948 F2 (F1 the same) door window glass replacement Thanks everyone. I replaced the glass. Moved the divider out of the way which was a task because of the old hard vent window seals and it's bottom mounting flange was on top side of the door flange, I reinstalled it on the bottom, later when I redo it I might put back on top. Even with my smallish hands they got pretty banged up. I just wanted to put the new glass in because the old glass had too many cracks and breaks. I will need to get the vent window gaskets, I have the rest of the part and will redo at a later drier date. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!