Fuel Hose With Check Valve

[32Bee]

I don't drive my 36 Sedan very often and find she usually starts very hard due to
obvious fuel bleed back. Will the purchase and installation of the advertised V8 Times fuel line with check valve for sale significantly decrease or even eliminate this problem?

Peter

[VeryTangled]

Hi Peter! We sure had fun in Maine, eh?

I've become a fan of this check valve. So my answer is yes. If it doesn't eliminate it, it will certainly help.

Background: Originally I was skeptical about this piece. But when I got my '35 Fordor in June '16 it had recently had one put on by the previous owner. That car never showed hard starting because of lack of fuel in the carb after sitting for ten days or more. (Sounds like you've decided this is what you've got.)

On the other hand, the '36 Phaeton DID have that issue. Sit for a while, have to crank more than I'd like to get fuel available. Sometimes I'd use a shot starting fluid to get over it.

I wanted some 'stats for the '35, and included a fuel line for the '36 in my order. Problem solved.

In fact, I just ran to the garage, and the '36 has been sitting for a couple of weeks. Started on the third crank, so that's an improvement that I attribute to the check-valve fuel line.

[flatford8]

I've also wondered about this valve for my '50. I thought the fuel was percolating out of the bowl and I put on a spacer under the carb. That seems to help so I think I'll get a check valve fuel hose too.
Where did you guys go in Maine? If I had known we had "Barnah's" in the area I would have shown some hospitality ........ Mark

[51504bat]

I went with an inline electric fuel pump with a toggle switch to solve this issue on my '39 p/u with an 8ba. Added benefit is that it can serve as a back up in case the mechanical pump takes a dump. JMO

[scicala]

I don't see how it's possible for the fuel to drain back from the carb in the fuel line with a Ford/Holley 94 type carb since the fuel (float) valve is above the fuel level.

It may be possible on a Stromberg carb since the fuel valve is at the top of the fuel level in the bowl.

Sal

[Ken Bull]

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Originally Posted by 51504bat

I went with an inline electric fuel pump with a toggle switch to solve this issue on my '39 p/u with an 8ba. Added benefit is that it can serve as a back up in case the mechanical pump takes a dump. JMO

I did this on my 36. Works for me!

[Floyd]

I think it is just another added complication waiting to go wrong. (Like adding electric fuel pumps). The original system works just fine. As said, fuel does not drain back into the tank. The new gasoline evaporates from the carb when sitting for a long time, i.e. a week or longer. At the same time the oil has drained off of the bearings and cylinder walls etc. Therefore when I start my 32 or the 40 after a few weeks sitting, The rebuilt starter and Optima battery gets a nice workout pumping oil thru the engine while the fuel pump primes and then she starts great after 8 to 10 seconds. I see no need to try and invent something else when it works great as is.
My opinion

[32Bee]

I have had this problem on both drivable Fords i own. My deuce sat for a year
(4 cyl) and fuel pump absolutely would not pump fuel from the tank forward.
Years ago I made a right angle contraption out of 1/4"steel brake line so I could
connect it to the pump outlet. I temporarily removed pump from side of block
and hand pumped it til fuel came out the end of the tubing. After doing that she
started after the first try. So, that's what I did with my 36 Humpback yesterday.

I'm going to spend the $40 for one of the new check valve lines just to see what
the difference may be.

Thanks for your comments.

Peter

[flatjack9]

There are check valves built in to the fuel pump.

[tubman]

I'm with "Floyd" and "flatjack9" on this. It shouldn't be necessary if everything else is up to snuff.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by tubman

I'm with "Floyd" and "flatjack9" on this. It shouldn't be necessary if everything else is up to snuff.

You guys should read the Ford service bulletin for checking the pump.
With a gauge in the line between the pump and carb a new, good pump
will hold the pressure for less than 2 minutes before dropping to zero.
Not so great for a new pump. G.M.

[keith oh]

My Father (A Ford Dealer back in the 30s and 40s) Said that a Ford recommendation back then was, on a cold start, to leave ignition switch off, no throttle or choke until either oil pressure shows or at least 15 to 20 seconds before starting. They claimed that a great deal of the engine wear was due to no lubrication then. So maybe it is just as well it takes some cranking time after setting for long period of time.

[40ford]

I had the same issue with my 40 Ford and I changed the pump to a later model fuel pump with a glass bowl and problem solved plus you got a sediment bowl so you can see what the heck is going on as far as trash in your fuel system!She can set for weeks and no problem cranking up.

[Bob-93021]

I also had the problem of no fuel in the bowl after sitting only a couple of days. A simple way to check for this is to remove the airfilter, operate the throttle lever while looking down the barrel of the carb. (Oh, engine off of course) If you do not see a stream of fuel from the nozzle the bowl is dry. The only way for the bowl to drain is via the power valve diaphragm or gasket. When I removed the carb from the engine I removed the top or air horn of carb. Filled fuel bowl with gas, removed float and installed air horn to minimize evaporation and set it over a pie pan. Sure enough about 8 hours later bowl was almost empty because the power valve gasket was leaking. Most of the gas was in the pie pan. This was on a 47 Ford with a 59A carb, not sure of internals of an earlier carb.

[keith oh]

In addition to my previous #12 posting, no bearing repair has been made to my 1935 babbit bearing engine in over 50,000 miles using this recommendation.

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

I went with an inline electric fuel pump with a toggle switch to solve this issue on my '39 p/u with an 8ba. Added benefit is that it can serve as a back up in case the mechanical pump takes a dump. JMO

Same. Haven't driven for a good month due to being away and bad weather here. Quick prime and she started first time ; )

[tubman]

Originally Posted by G.M.

You guys should read the Ford service bulletin for checking the pump.
With a gauge in the line between the pump and carb a new, good pump
will hold the pressure for less than 2 minutes before dropping to zero.
Not so great for a new pump. G.M.

I really don't understand what you are trying to tell us. I can tell you (from an experience I had last week) that a flathead will start, back up, and run at least 1000' with just the fuel in the float bowl. If the stock pump doesn't prime by then, I gotta think something else is wrong. What residual pressure at the pump has to do with this is beyond me.

[DD931]

We are so spoiled with our modern fuel injection systems!! I'm with Floyd and the others who agree with him. By the time you have a little oil pressure on the gage you're bound to have fuel!! What is the rule when starting a newly overhauled engine? Crank until you have oil pressure to insure you have lubrication when you turn on the ignition. There's no way the float bowl can empty into the tank because there is a vacuum break at the needle valve.

[VeryTangled]

Hi again everyone. I'll probably never know if it's witchcraft or not. But, I'm just the kind of rube that uses MMO in the fuel, and that stuff is snake-oil.

[Tinker]

I don't have this problem either, knock on wood.

NO eth fuel ever, rebuilt stroms, new fuel lines, and the pumps I'm using are 4yrs old from Dennis (glass and 36 is a non glass bowl). No check valve hose but I couldn't see any harm in doing so, I guess a good backup to the pump check valves.

Left my 36 for a month and a half sitting and just started it with a choke pull and a couple seconds of cranking on sunday.

Like I said... knock on wood.