The Ford Barn

chain drive · 06-28-2021, 07:04 PM

stud rod and a arc welder weld on the bolt the arc will not go to the head weld till you can get a nut on the weld weld the nut on `

V8COOPMAN · 06-28-2021, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

I was wondering if the removed head bolts were loosly installed and the engine started, would the compression cause the head to come loose of the broken off head bolt still holding the head?

You know Jim, I don't see any problem trying to "BLOW" that head loose at this point, as long as you drain the water, and if you hand-thread a couple of head bolts toward the center, plus two at each end of the head. I would back the bolts out maybe TWO turns MAXIMUM. Leave the plug wires attached, fully functioning.

That's not the engine in your coupe, is it? That's likely your buddy's black coupe with the automatic trans, right? Good luck!

Dick D

flatjack9 · 06-28-2021, 08:26 PM

First choice would be swiveling the head, second would be the head puller. I also made one up years ago and it works great.

richard crow · 06-28-2021, 08:49 PM

get a thin wall steel tube that just fits over he stud 7/16 now file teeth on one end. on the other end get a nut with a hole big enought to slide over the tube .weld the nut now place the tube over the stud . tap the tube to get it started. use a wrench to turn the nut it,s just crud & it cuts ez they do make a tool like it but i don,t know where to get one

Ronnie · 06-28-2021, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Ronnie, Perhaps I'm missing something as I don't understand your reply. Can you please explain further. I am dealing with a head bolt not a wheel stud. Thanks.

There are wheel studs that you can purchase that are spark plug thread,make a puller from that thread it into spark plug hole use a slide hammer on it to lift head.

R

Frank Miller · 06-29-2021, 08:03 AM

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I think twisting the head will just turn the bolt in the hole. You appear to be stuck to the head. Twisting will be limited by any open valves. Careful not to bend one.

Andy · 06-29-2021, 10:10 AM

I am with the hole saw gang. I have fought corroded steel to aluminum a few times and the pieces never came loose. A fill plug on a Muncie was so bad I had to add a new plug.
A piece of 1/2 in tubing drilled out to 7/16 Id would be a wall thickness of 1/32 in. Teeth could be shaped with a Drimmel tool.

pistonbroke · 06-29-2021, 10:42 AM

Hey Guys, This is a problem I had with my 38 V12 in my zephyr. I didn't break off the stud but the heads were welded to few of the studs. What we did was to heat the studs, in your case the bolt to almost red hot then let it cool completely while spraying WD40 at the stuck studs. While heating the stud we placed a washer on the stud as not to melt the aluminium heads. When reassembling a aluminium heads I use a product called TEFGEL. It's designed for use where aluminium comes in contact with steel or bronze. I works great, no more corrosion around the studs or bolts. Tim

cas3 · 06-29-2021, 11:15 AM

On model T's we would stuff a piece of rope in thru the spark plug hole, and turn the motor over to push the head loose. Not sure if you can do that with a v8 head, never tried

19Fordy · 06-29-2021, 12:37 PM

Yes V8, that's my buddy'4 blown 40 coupe. He had the engine built by Mark Kirby many years ago when Mark had his full tilt shop in Dundee, MI just down the road from his house. I drove all the way to MI visit him back then and he gave me the full tour. He had converted an old car dealership into his MCF business. It was a great set up. Mark was a good man dedicated to flatheads.

supereal · 06-29-2021, 02:20 PM

A broken bolt or stud is almost always the time to consult a machine shop. We see lots
of these, such as exhaust manifolds and other places that have many heat/cool cycles
and/or amateur attempts to remove which complicate the job, such as drilling.

VeryTangled · 06-29-2021, 11:37 PM

This quote from 3 days ago...

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Here's the problem...

This is a pretty expensive engine and the heads are no longer being made so i don't want to do something stupid.

Thank you. Jim

And an observation I personally hear a lot of wisdom in...

Quote:

Originally Posted by supereal

A broken bolt or stud is almost always the time to consult a machine shop. We see lots of these, such as exhaust manifolds and other places that have many heat/cool cycles and/or amateur attempts to remove which complicate the job, such as drilling.

06-28-2021, 07:04 PM	#21
chain drive Member Join Date: Oct 2020 Posts: 73	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head stud rod and a arc welder weld on the bolt the arc will not go to the head weld till you can get a nut on the weld weld the nut on `

06-28-2021, 08:26 PM	#23
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,527	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head First choice would be swiveling the head, second would be the head puller. I also made one up years ago and it works great.

06-28-2021, 08:49 PM	#24
richard crow Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,770	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head get a thin wall steel tube that just fits over he stud 7/16 now file teeth on one end. on the other end get a nut with a hole big enought to slide over the tube .weld the nut now place the tube over the stud . tap the tube to get it started. use a wrench to turn the nut it,s just crud & it cuts ez they do make a tool like it but i don,t know where to get one

06-29-2021, 08:03 AM	#26
Frank Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn, MA Posts: 2,106	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I think twisting the head will just turn the bolt in the hole. You appear to be stuck to the head. Twisting will be limited by any open valves. Careful not to bend one. __________________ “The technique of infamy is to start two lies at once and get people arguing heatedly over which is true.” ~ Ezra Pound

06-29-2021, 10:10 AM	#27
Andy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kerrville, Tx Posts: 2,770	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head I am with the hole saw gang. I have fought corroded steel to aluminum a few times and the pieces never came loose. A fill plug on a Muncie was so bad I had to add a new plug. A piece of 1/2 in tubing drilled out to 7/16 Id would be a wall thickness of 1/32 in. Teeth could be shaped with a Drimmel tool.

06-29-2021, 10:42 AM	#28
pistonbroke Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Perry Mo. Posts: 485	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head Hey Guys, This is a problem I had with my 38 V12 in my zephyr. I didn't break off the stud but the heads were welded to few of the studs. What we did was to heat the studs, in your case the bolt to almost red hot then let it cool completely while spraying WD40 at the stuck studs. While heating the stud we placed a washer on the stud as not to melt the aluminium heads. When reassembling a aluminium heads I use a product called TEFGEL. It's designed for use where aluminium comes in contact with steel or bronze. I works great, no more corrosion around the studs or bolts. Tim

06-29-2021, 11:15 AM	#29
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,577	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head On model T's we would stuff a piece of rope in thru the spark plug hole, and turn the motor over to push the head loose. Not sure if you can do that with a v8 head, never tried

06-29-2021, 02:20 PM	#31
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: Need Advice on Removing Broken off Stud and Head A broken bolt or stud is almost always the time to consult a machine shop. We see lots of these, such as exhaust manifolds and other places that have many heat/cool cycles and/or amateur attempts to remove which complicate the job, such as drilling.