The Ford Barn

Tinker · 10-13-2021, 12:47 AM

Less you are building a blown motor. You'll be fine without a rebuild from what I'm seeing. If you want to pre-pressure the oil (not sure how that's done on a low pressure flathead system, unlike a sbc or a yblock with a drill) just handcrank the crank with some oil in it. or post a picture with a oil galley plug and no explanation or help. But from your list of fords you already know. Boy with al the talk about about getting new members in flatheads it's funny how some are just adhering to some sorta boys club.

Good start.

V8COOPMAN · 10-13-2021, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford38v8

if you insist.

Horizontal pressure sender will malfunction.
You're up.

Big, ugly, deformed oil pressure ports (etc.) on a French flathead can be made to look almost normal! DD

Bored&Stroked · 10-13-2021, 05:16 AM

I think you're heading down the right approach - take it all apart, clean and inspect everything, check all your clearances. I'd clean the bores with Scotchbrite, make sure there isn't any rust on open valves or valve seats and once you're happy with everything, then reassemble it with correct assembly lubrication on the cam, bores, pistons/rings, bearings, etc.. As another person noted - would check all the valve springs to see if they have consistent pressure and are within spec (depending on the CAM that is in it).

It appears to me to be a stock type rebuild and the tag on it is probably correct - as I noted a .010, .010, .020 set of numbers. Crank is probably ground .010 on the rods/mains and the bore was bored out .020 . . . which matches your readings.

It could easily be a great engine and fits the era of your car. From looking at it, appears to be a 39-41 era engine. The fact that it has a 3.207 bore makes one ponder what it started out as? The Ford engines of that era had a 3.0625 bore - the Mercs a 3.187 bore . . . but this isn't a Merc engine (the deck doesn't have the Merc water hole pattern).

It may have been a 221 CI Ford engine with "tin-can sleeves" - that were then knocked out and the bore size increased . . . no way to know.

On changing the distributor, check the end of the cam to see if it has the "long nosed" early cam or not - this can play into what pieces/parts are used to go back to a helmet distributor. Note: There were two different cam "noses" on the 39-48 engines . . . one is basically flat and the other protrudes about 3/8 or so. Take a close-up picture of the cam front when you remove the distributor - then we can tell you what you need to do on this end of the deal.

Mart · 10-13-2021, 07:29 AM

It has a crab dist bolted in place so it would be a relatively safe bet that it has a short nose cam.

mustangbrandon · 10-13-2021, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinker

Less you are building a blown motor. You'll be fine without a rebuild from what I'm seeing. If you want to pre-pressure the oil (not sure how that's done on a low pressure flathead system, unlike a sbc or a yblock with a drill) just handcrank the crank with some oil in it. or post a picture with a oil galley plug and no explanation or help. But from your list of fords you already know. Boy with al the talk about about getting new members in flatheads it's funny how some are just adhering to some sorta boys club.

Good start.

Yea, bad attitudes can kill a hobby pretty quick. Luckily, I just do my thing regardless. My first flathead was built by flatjack (on here), then I had a 41 biz coupe with one. My other cars are all more hot rod/gasser stuff but when I got this convertible and it had all this stuff, I am staying 99% stock on it (exception is heads and intake). Just so many variations on these I am trying to get a good idea of what I have so I can head the right direction. Thanks for your input.

mustangbrandon · 10-13-2021, 09:14 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Take a close-up picture of the cam front when you remove the distributor - then we can tell you what you need to do on this end of the deal.

Thanks for the input. I'd really like to run the helmet, I really like the looks and in the '41 it would be correct. Just wondering if someone sells a cam for that application? But then again, I have no idea what this cam is. Before I pull it I will measure lift at valve and then maybe there's a stamp on it. I would be somewhat surprised they put adjustable lifters on a stock cam. But then again I have no clue what I am talking about and not afraid to admit it lol

Mart · 10-13-2021, 09:47 AM

You can run a helmet distributor on a short cam by using a spacer button on the end of the cam.
You'll need a 3 bolt cover too.
Personally I prefer the crab type, but that is my personal preference.

10-13-2021, 12:47 AM	#21
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: 59AB advice on "new" flathead Less you are building a blown motor. You'll be fine without a rebuild from what I'm seeing. If you want to pre-pressure the oil (not sure how that's done on a low pressure flathead system, unlike a sbc or a yblock with a drill) just handcrank the crank with some oil in it. or post a picture with a oil galley plug and no explanation or help. But from your list of fords you already know. Boy with al the talk about about getting new members in flatheads it's funny how some are just adhering to some sorta boys club. Good start. Last edited by Tinker; 10-13-2021 at 02:34 AM.

10-13-2021, 05:16 AM	#23
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,064	Re: 59AB advice on "new" flathead I think you're heading down the right approach - take it all apart, clean and inspect everything, check all your clearances. I'd clean the bores with Scotchbrite, make sure there isn't any rust on open valves or valve seats and once you're happy with everything, then reassemble it with correct assembly lubrication on the cam, bores, pistons/rings, bearings, etc.. As another person noted - would check all the valve springs to see if they have consistent pressure and are within spec (depending on the CAM that is in it). It appears to me to be a stock type rebuild and the tag on it is probably correct - as I noted a .010, .010, .020 set of numbers. Crank is probably ground .010 on the rods/mains and the bore was bored out .020 . . . which matches your readings. It could easily be a great engine and fits the era of your car. From looking at it, appears to be a 39-41 era engine. The fact that it has a 3.207 bore makes one ponder what it started out as? The Ford engines of that era had a 3.0625 bore - the Mercs a 3.187 bore . . . but this isn't a Merc engine (the deck doesn't have the Merc water hole pattern). It may have been a 221 CI Ford engine with "tin-can sleeves" - that were then knocked out and the bore size increased . . . no way to know. On changing the distributor, check the end of the cam to see if it has the "long nosed" early cam or not - this can play into what pieces/parts are used to go back to a helmet distributor. Note: There were two different cam "noses" on the 39-48 engines . . . one is basically flat and the other protrudes about 3/8 or so. Take a close-up picture of the cam front when you remove the distributor - then we can tell you what you need to do on this end of the deal. Last edited by Bored&Stroked; 10-13-2021 at 05:29 AM.

10-13-2021, 07:29 AM	#24
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,750	Re: 59AB advice on "new" flathead It has a crab dist bolted in place so it would be a relatively safe bet that it has a short nose cam.

10-13-2021, 09:47 AM	#27
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,750	Re: 59AB advice on "new" flathead You can run a helmet distributor on a short cam by using a spacer button on the end of the cam. You'll need a 3 bolt cover too. Personally I prefer the crab type, but that is my personal preference.