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10-13-2021, 12:17 PM | #1 |
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pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
I have a dead FOM that needs to come out, can I pull it out WITHOUT taking out the PS steering components? Same goes for stuffing the engine and tranny in with the body on the car?
Mike
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1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan |
10-13-2021, 12:36 PM | #2 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
I did.
Unbolted the PS pump mounting brackets from the front of the engine and tied it toward the front and side as far as the hoses would reach. |
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10-13-2021, 10:06 PM | #3 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
Well if you can get it out of a little bird I should be able to get it out of a wagon.
thanks, Mike
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1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan |
10-14-2021, 09:05 PM | #4 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
Empty Engine Bay in dmsfrr's 1955 Thunderbird. Last edited by mercman from oz; 10-15-2021 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Description change |
10-14-2021, 09:17 PM | #5 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
I’m sure you can pull them as a unit, if that’s what you’re asking. But I think you’ve got the front sump pan with the steering under the pan in the middle. So the raise and tilt will be different than the bird. You’ll probably need to get the car up a bit to raise and tilt it enough to clear the tail shaft on the floor. Regardless, a good cherry picker (tall) ( or an gantry) and a tilt device are your best friend. Just watch the weight ratings, a y block and a Fordo aren’t light.
There’s a lot of these out there, but watch the weight ratings. https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Engine-...a-571053070945 |
10-14-2021, 11:13 PM | #6 | |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
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Quote:
Yes, if you're using a hoist it should be rated for 1000# minimum at full arm extension. A tilt device that you can adjust while it's in the air is well worth using. It can be a real pita without one since the engine & transmission are quite bit longer than the engine compartment. If you are lifting the engine & trans over the radiator support (or fender) it will be quite high off the floor and a hoist can act quite top-heavy. I suggest rolling the car out from under the engine rather than trying to pull a rolling hoist away from the car with the engine & trans that high up. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 10-16-2021 at 09:00 AM. |
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10-14-2021, 11:39 PM | #7 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
Just an OCD correction...
Not that it really matters or anyone else will be able to tell from that photo, but... The red one is a '55 T-Bird. It's put together now and is a driveable work-in-progress. I do have a disassembled '57 Bird but it's yellow. Last edited by dmsfrr; 10-15-2021 at 10:51 AM. |
10-15-2021, 12:46 AM | #8 |
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Location: Lynden, Wa
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
When I do this next spring I will leave the heads, starter, gen, PS pump etc. off to lower the weight of the engine/tranny. I will look into getting a tilt mechanism and when I hose the car off this month-finally!!!-I will also hose the cross member off. Then I will have a better look at the metal, there are only two bolts holding it to the frame so I don't know if someone did something to it, or it came from the factory that way. Either way I can't wait.
Mike
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1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan |
10-15-2021, 08:37 AM | #9 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
I have never used a tilting devise. I almost always pull engine and trans together, and sometimes I never take the hood off! But this is a 57, the hood has to be off. My trick is to jack up the back of the car as high as possible leave the front on the ground, now there is very little tilting to do. I also use a carb plate to lift with.
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10-15-2021, 11:17 AM | #10 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
Interesting idea, I'd never thought of that, but didn't really have the option. The engine hoist I borrowed had one wheel that didn't work well so I didn't want to try yanking it around while the engine & transmission were way up in the air and have an accident with it.
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10-15-2021, 11:27 AM | #11 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
Hopefully you've got the car on level ground and have really good front-wheel chalks when you raise the rear off the ground, because the parking brake will be useless.
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10-15-2021, 08:54 PM | #12 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
This is one of the best engine pullers that I have ever used.
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48 Ford Conv 56 Tbird 54 Ford Victoria |
10-15-2021, 09:55 PM | #13 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
Very neat looking Engine Bay in dmsfrr's 1955 Ford Thunderbird. |
10-16-2021, 08:10 PM | #14 |
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Re: pulling/stuffing engine and tranny
If you want to remove the Ford-O-Matic trans without needing to remove the engine or PS components on a full-size car, you can do so without trouble.
Drain the trans fluid via the dipstick tube and completely remove the dipstick tube by taking out the top starter motor bolt (releasing the dipstick tube bracket). Disconnect the starter power cable and take the other two bolts out of the starter and remove the starter motor. Jack up the front of the car and remove the front "half-moon" shaped inspection plate on the converter bellhousing. Remove all the converter to flexplate bolts by rotating the engine in small portions to get at the bolts till all are gone. Unplug the speedo cable from the trans and remove the intake air-duct (if air-cooled converter is on the car). Disconnect the passing gear link and gear select rod from the trans lever. Pull the driveshaft out by removing the 4 bolts at the rear U-joint yoke. Jack up the front of the car more to get a floor jack under the trans. (I have mine fitted with a piece of 1/2" plywood for the trans pan to sit on). Remove the bellhousing to engine bolts, then raise your jack against the trans pan. Remove 3 bolts on each side of the frame crossmember. The trans is now fully isolated and can be pulled back away from the engine enough to disengage the converter pilot from the engine crankshaft recess. Now you should be able to lower your jack carefully with the transmission on it. As you lower (slowly), pull the trans forward with the rolling floor jack so that the converter bellhousing will slide under the engine and allow the trans rear extension housing to clear that last frame crossover piece. Once you have cleared that, you can lower the jack all the way to the floor and pull the jack with transmission out from under the car. Whenever I have done it, I always place a big, heavy piece of cardboard on the floor of the garage under the car and pull the transmission off the jack and on to the cardboard, then slide the trans out from under the car on the piece of cardboard. Otherwise, you gotta have to front of the car raised dangerously high. No need to do anything with engine mounts or anything regarding PS center link. |
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