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11-20-2013, 03:24 PM | #1 |
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universal joint problem
I'm posting this for a friend who isn't computer literate.
He replaced the universal joint in his '30 4-door recently and has developed a knock that sounds like it's coming from the area of the universal joint. It seems more noticeable after the engine has heated up a bit and when he let up on the gas or is cruising around 35 mph on a smooth city street. He said its on tight and the covers are in place correctly. He thinks it may be hitting the inner cover. The replacement and apparently is a foreign made part and the dealer told him was the only one available and they admitted it wasn't a perfect fit but only one made. His old one was the riveted style that apparently is not rebuild-able. Anyway, does anyone have any experiences with these replacement U-joints and/or a fix for the noisy joint? Or a source for a better repo part or good rebuilt U-joints? Thanks! Beast |
11-20-2013, 04:14 PM | #2 |
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Re: universal joint problem
There is a special lock washer (A-7095 you can see a picture in Snyder's catalog)) that must be installed to hold the u-joint in its proper attitude. Was that installed?
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. |
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11-20-2013, 04:27 PM | #3 |
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Re: universal joint problem
I think there was a recent thread regarding this same subject. If I remember correctly the owner ended up slightly grinding the cover.
NOS joints are still available as are good originals. |
11-20-2013, 05:47 PM | #4 |
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Re: universal joint problem
Steve Mitchell told me he likes these for the Model A:
http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=HB-7090 Has anybody had any experience with them? They have needle bearings instead of the original bushings. |
11-20-2013, 09:09 PM | #5 |
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Re: universal joint problem
I'm told that washer is installed correctly and tight.
I'll pass on the Bob Drake info. Many thanks! |
11-20-2013, 09:56 PM | #6 |
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Re: universal joint problem
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11-20-2013, 10:38 PM | #7 | |
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Re: universal joint problem
Quote:
If this is true how come the Ford parts book shows u-joint part B-7090 1928-48 Bob |
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11-20-2013, 10:42 PM | #8 |
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Re: universal joint problem
used plenty of the V8 style ones. no problems, theyb were orig ones, Derek in Hot NZ
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11-21-2013, 08:36 AM | #9 |
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Re: universal joint problem
Bob Drake's web site says,"Originally on 1936-48 Lincoln". If you cannot tell the difference between an original and the one being offered you may not understand why Beast 3's friend has a problem.
Bob C; I don't know what book you refer to but, I think you will find the part number for a Model A joint is A-7090. quickchange; If the driveline is alligned well you may have no problem. The original joint was made with a floating cross to compensate for any misalignment in the driveline. Many people use the B-7090 and have no perceptible problem. I chose to use the good original. You may choose what what you wish. Ron W |
11-21-2013, 12:31 PM | #10 |
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Re: universal joint problem
A-7090 was changed to B-7090 in 1932, it's the same part.
Bob |
11-21-2013, 04:40 PM | #11 |
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Re: universal joint problem
It's not the same part! If the cross does not float, it's not an A-7090. If you can't tell them apart, you'll be happy with either one. I've explained the difference twice. That should be enough. If you would like to argue the point, don't do it here, send me a PM. Ron W
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11-21-2013, 09:57 PM | #12 |
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Re: universal joint problem
I would bet the Ford dealers were weaned off the original style U-joint to the later style because Ford did things by the #'s. Quantity equaled money and streamlined production. Also dealers would probably check and sell more driveline alignments. It would be interesting to see the parts books and dealer letters during those years.
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11-21-2013, 10:41 PM | #13 |
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Re: universal joint problem
Here's the 1932 parts book. The 1948 parts book shows the u-joint rebuild
kit B-7084 as used up to 1948. Bob |
11-22-2013, 06:53 AM | #14 |
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Re: universal joint problem
Thank you, Bob. I needed to see this page for my own work. You'all have a good day. wk
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11-22-2013, 09:21 AM | #15 |
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Re: universal joint problem
Apparently I am not very good at expressing myself. Bob is correct about the parts being sold by Ford in the 30
Last edited by Ron W; 11-22-2013 at 09:24 AM. Reason: message did not all come through |
11-22-2013, 09:30 AM | #16 |
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Re: universal joint problem
Even after editing the message was not complete? this is the last try.
Apparently I am not very good at expressing myself. Bob is correct about the parts being sold by Ford in the 30’s. They are not the same as parts being sold today under those numbers. I will try not to confuse you further by additional comment Ron W |
11-26-2013, 02:13 PM | #17 |
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Re: universal joint problem
Thanks for all the advise guys. We're going to pull it out and check it out.
Cheers! Beast |
06-12-2014, 04:33 AM | #18 | |
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Re: universal joint problem
Quote:
If you take the front bearing out of the torque tube it will work perfectly. The universal will locate the front of the rear drive shaft as it does for many cars from Nascars to Kenworth trucks. This is how Edsel Ford should have designed it in the first place. The same will apply to all 28-48 fords. |
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06-12-2014, 07:50 AM | #19 | |
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Re: universal joint problem
Quote:
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06-12-2014, 08:25 AM | #20 |
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Re: universal joint problem
If you look at page 564 of the model A service bulletins you will see what is thought of as the "V8" universal joint, in 32 all part #s that were carried over from the A got a "B" prefix, the parts that only fit the A stayed with the "A" prefix
If you take the driveshaft bearing out and let a "modern" u[-joint center the driveshaft the seal will have trouble with the sideways movement of the driveshaft ---and I don't think the speedo gear will like it that much either |
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