aftermarket power steering kits; '52-'56 cars

[40cpe]

I've seen a couple of '52-'56 cars for sale with the power steering upgrade that contains all the hydraulics in the gearbox. Neither seller is enthusiastic about how they drive other than they steer easy. Does anybody have any knowledge about these and how well they drive on the highway?

[Marcus]

Gene -.Looking for a new toy, old friend?? Anyway, just completed the installation of a Borgeson PS unit in the '68 Mustang GT Convertible (factory MS car) - absolutely love it; however, has the standard pump and plumbing - everyone I spoke with indicated I should avoid that unit you are discussing. Come up to the 'Grove and drive it, if you wish.

[40cpe]

Yes Marcus, now that I have a "hot rod", I need something to replace the '40 that the bride can ride in. I'm thinking mid-50's Ford.

One of these is supposed to be a F-100 kit, the other I'm not sure of.

[JeffB2]

There is another option far less expensive one of the members in my 1952-59 Ford Social Group on the H.A.M.B. has done it and posted a how to with pictures of it in a '53 Ford Customline and he loves it. Also you retain the stock steering box and linkage so no adapters or frame mods to install it are needed.http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/35-e...cs-454530.html Go to post # 12 to see pictures of install http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...dd-on.1019325/

[Johnnydidd]

I have a brand new Borgeson Power Steering unit for a flathead still in box, was going to put it on my 53 Victoria but sold car before I got installed. I would sell very reasonable. the only difference for later models is the mounting of pump.

[40cpe]

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Thanks for the suggestions, but i'm looking at a couple of built cars with these kits installed and want to know if "twitchy" steering is characteristic of them or if it can be corrected. I drove 4 hours one way to look at one of the cars. Driving at about 50 mph required constant correction.

[Ford blue blood]

Mustang II kits if not properly done have a "twitchy" feel to them. This is caused by too high pump pressure. The constant correction thing is a castor alignment issue. Older cars had zero castor to make steering effort minimal. Adding positive castor reduces the "wandering" greatly and increases the effort which is over come by the power steering. I have had the alignment guy I use put 6* positive on everything I've converted.

The Borgesn units are matched perfectly, are as close to bolt-in as you will find for this type conversion. I've done three of them and all three guys are very happy!

[56 ranch]

As was stated earlier, the power steering pump may be putting out more
pressure than the unit can handle. This problem can be solved by adding a pressure regulator. I added a Heidt's Ps-101 power steering valve to the rack & pinion steering I added to my '56. I was able to dial down the pressure to get rid of the twitchy feeling.

[miker98038]

I used the same Heidi's valve and it worked fine. Depending on what kind of front end work was done, sometimes the geometry doesn't come out right and you end up with a lot of bump steer. In my case, it got much more noticeable with wider wheels and tires. This can be either an easy fix or a nightmare, depending on where it went wrong.

As blue blood says, more caster really helps, but on the front of my 55 bird it took a lot of work to get enough caster to help.

Your "constant correction" in my case was all three. Too much pressure, too much bump steer, and lack of caster. Once all 3 were solved the car drives like a modern car.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by miker98038

Your "constant correction" in my case was all three. Too much pressure, too much bump steer, and lack of caster. Once all 3 were solved the car drives like a modern car.

If I'm not mistaken, the pitman arm on the integral gearbox connects to the original steering linkage. I can understand having too much pressure, but how could the conversion affect correct alignment on otherwise stock steering? I'm not saying it doesn't, I'm just trying to understand it.

[miker98038]

I'm not saying it did, but sometimes you don't know just what else has been modified. If all the suspension/steering components are stock, its likely the pressure problem and/or alignment. The combination of "twitchy" steering from too much pressure and not enough caster could do it, I suppose. But I've seen a lot of guys lower cars, change wheels and tires, and wonder why they don't drive as good as they look. Just needed a new alignment.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by miker98038

I'm not saying it did, but sometimes you don't know just what else has been modified. If all the suspension/steering components are stock, its likely the pressure problem and/or alignment. The combination of "twitchy" steering from too much pressure and not enough caster could do it, I suppose. But I've seen a lot of guys lower cars, change wheels and tires, and wonder why they don't drive as good as they look. Just needed a new alignment.

Thank you for sharing your experience with this problem. And this car does have wider wheels/tires and Fatman dropped spindles.

[JeffB2]

More info on the electric power steering,no pumps and brackets or under hood hose clutter to deal with and no change to your existing alignment,sounds nice ? check out the videos. https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ing+conversion

[Motorhead6]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Thanks for the suggestions, but i'm looking at a couple of built cars with these kits installed and want to know if "twitchy" steering is characteristic of them or if it can be corrected. I drove 4 hours one way to look at one of the cars. Driving at about 50 mph required constant correction.

I am putting the Borgeson box on a '57 Ford. I have done a lot of research on Borgeson and after the usual install nightmares, seems all are happy with the results. Putting a different steering box on a car should not impact the driveability. Take the car to a shop that is familiar with old car front end settings and have them check out the toe in, camber, and caster. Seems the toe in is out of spec. This is the first and most obvious step when a car wanders down a straight road. While they are at it, they should check out the components for integrity.(ball joints, tie rod ends, upper and lower bushings, idler arm)

I can tell you from experience that if you don't have 1/16" to 1/8" toe in, you will be chasing the center of the lane the whole time you are driving in a straight line.

[rnch]

I recall my Mother saying she almost stopped driving entirely for the 4 years the family car was a '52 Ford. She always complained that it was SO hard to steer.

When Dad traded in the Ford on a new '56 Chebbie Bel-Air she started driving more, she said. Compared to the Ford the Chev steered much easier, she maintained.

[Dobie Gillis]

There was a service bulletin issued by Ford to address the '52/'53 wanderlust. It involves shimming the idler arm out from the frame by 1/8" IIRC. Did it on my '53 and noticed an improvement.

[JeffB2]

Originally Posted by JeffB2

More info on the electric power steering,no pumps and brackets or under hood hose clutter to deal with and no change to your existing alignment,sounds nice ? check out the videos. https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ing+conversion

More pictures and information here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...#post-11957695

[40cpe]

It sounds like most of you think it is ultimately solvable. Thanks for all the comments and lots of things to investigate IF the seller accepts my offer.

[Larry Parham]

Originally Posted by miker98038

I used the same Heidi's valve and it worked fine. Depending on what kind of front end work was done, sometimes the geometry doesn't come out right and you end up with a lot of bump steer. In my case, it got much more noticeable with wider wheels and tires. This can be either an easy fix or a nightmare, depending on where it went wrong.

As blue blood says, more caster really helps, but on the front of my 55 bird it took a lot of work to get enough caster to help.

Your "constant correction" in my case was all three. Too much pressure, too much bump steer, and lack of caster. Once all 3 were solved the car drives like a modern car.

My 57 thunderbird has factory power steering. I installed a AOD transmission behind the 312 y block. Interstate speeds are a peace of cake. But steering was a two handed twitchy nightmare. By changing to 1/8 inch toe end an leaning the top of the spindle rear ward as much as possible steering is now much improved.

[Ole Don]

Originally Posted by Larry Parham

My 57 thunderbird has factory power steering. I installed a AOD transmission behind the 312 y block. Interstate speeds are a peace of cake. But steering was a two handed twitchy nightmare. By changing to 1/8 inch toe end an leaning the top of the spindle rear ward as much as possible steering is now much improved.

All it takes is an experienced front end man. Factory specs may not be the best for you, and your car. They are a good place to start.