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Old 01-07-2021, 09:29 AM   #1
Tatertot
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Default Rear axle shaft loose, banjo 38

I have a 38í PU and wasnít sure on thoughts to where to start with fixing this- the right rear axle shaft has 1/4Ē of free play. Looking at the manuals Iím thinking I need a new gear race and can get to it by removing the backing plate- Thanks
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:37 AM   #2
1931 flamingo
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Default Re: Rear axle shaft loose, banjo 38

With the drum ON and tightened is there any movement??
I believe what movement you have now is normal as there's nothing supporting the axle withe the drum removed.
Paul in CT
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Old 01-07-2021, 10:06 AM   #3
JM 35 Sedan
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Default Re: Rear axle shaft loose, banjo 38

The early Ford banjo rear has whats known as floating axles. The tapered end of the axle in your picture requires the drum assembly with roller bearing to be in place for its stability.
Also, the threaded end of the axle in your picture looks like it could be heavily mushroomed.... unless thats just a distortion in the picture.
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Old 01-07-2021, 10:43 AM   #4
Tatertot
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Default Re: Rear axle shaft loose, banjo 38

Thank you- Iíll put the hub on and check. I also think itís just the picture.
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Old 01-07-2021, 10:44 AM   #5
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Default Re: Rear axle shaft loose, banjo 38

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Old 01-07-2021, 03:29 PM   #6
JSeery
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Default Re: Rear axle shaft loose, banjo 38

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When you go to do the final assembly, be sure the tapered part of both the axle and the drum are spotless clean and dry. The nut on the axle torques down to a very high number. As you most like do not has a torque wrench that will read high enough to read it, get it as tight as you can using a cheater bar/pipe on a breakover bar.
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:04 PM   #7
Bored&Stroked
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Default Re: Rear axle shaft loose, banjo 38

You need to use about 200 Ft lbs on the big nut on the end of the axle. I know this makes ones rear-end pucker as you're struggling to put that much torque on it . . . but this high torque number is what ensures that the hub-to-axle tapered surfaces can do their job.

The key is NOT what takes the load (or it shouldn't) - it is the tight fitting tapered surfaces that take the load . . . and they only work as they should with the correct torque figures.

Hopefully the tapered ends of your axles are in good shape - inspect them carefully for cracks around the key-way . . . many get damaged from improper installation or abuse over the years. Hopefully the bearing surfaces on your axle bells are good - in many cases they get pitting over the years . . . which is another problem.

Also, torque it once, drive it around a bit (making sure you go around some corners), then come back and re-check the torque values.
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