Question about frame/chassis

[LizardsA]

I am working on a '30 Open Cab Pickup, and have just replaced the float-a-motor engine mounts with original mounts. Now it seems like the frame/chassis had already bent because the doors do not close properly anymore, so much so that if you drive the car, the doors open on their own. If two people get in, it is almost impossible to close the doors. Is there a way to check the frame/chassis without pulling the whole car apart?
As always, your good advice and help is highly appreciated!
Mike
Johannesburg, South Africa

[Charlie Stephens]

Have you tried shimming the body? You may want to do that to solve your problem even if the frame is bent. I have an early '31 RDPU.

Charlie Stephens

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by LizardsA

Is there a way to check the frame/chassis without pulling the whole car apart?

Not really Mike. The only accurate way is to be able to access the top portion of each rail.

[katy]

You can measure along the bottom if you make the necessary allowances for the difference between the top and bottom. Go to: http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatal...ram1928-31.pdf
for frame dimensions.

[LizardsA]

Thanks for the responses gent, much appreciated.
Charlie: This looks like the route I need to take first
Brent: This is what I am hoping to avoid if possible, but I guess is the only accurate way to check...ULP!
Katy: Thanks for the diagram, this is really useful!

[George Miller]

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I made two brackets that go on the top rail, then hang down below frame. Put your string on those. Then I have a gauge that you can use to measure the sag.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

If it worked OK with the Float-A-Motors, why didn't you just leave well enough alone? Sometimes, WE are our WORST ENEMIES!
Bill W.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by LizardsA

Thanks for the responses gent, much appreciated.
Charlie: This looks like the route I need to take first
Brent: This is what I am hoping to avoid if possible, but I guess is the only accurate way to check...ULP!
Katy: Thanks for the diagram, this is really useful!

Mike, in reality the FaM mount removal did not create the door opening problem. Most Model-As that I have seen that used FaM mounts were poorly restored in other areas too. My suggestion is start by looking at the front body mount on each side and verify it is not cracked or broken, and there is a rubber washer underneath with a tight nut & bolt.

Next, look at the door hinges and verify the pins are tight, and the screws holding the hinge plates to the door and the cowl pillar are tight. If not, correct that issue.

Look at the latch assy and the catch and make sure that is not worn. If there is any wear areas, repair those before moving on.

Now that all of the issues above are verified and/or corrected, begin at the front and check that all body bolts are tight. If any are loose, then check each body block that it is sound (-not deteriorated or rotten). Start the procedure of aligning the doors using no more than two rubber shims to alter the position of the body to allow the doors to align. Marco has a nice tutorial on his web sight regarding this. I suspect you are going to find there are loose pins & fasteners that are allowing the body to flex when people are getting in/out of the vehicle.

[LizardsA]

Bill: The FaMs cause more problems than pleasure - steering and braking are normally all over the place, no stability, and the flex in the radius caused by an unstable engine are not ideal, hence I will ALWAYS remove those infernal gimmicks
Brent: thanks for the sound advice, please give me Marco's site address

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by LizardsA

Bill: The FaMs cause more problems than pleasure - steering and braking are normally all over the place, no stability, and the flex in the radius caused by an unstable engine are not ideal, hence I will ALWAYS remove those infernal gimmicks
Brent: thanks for the sound advice, please give me Marco's site address

The address for Marco's site is:

http://www.abarnyard.com/index.shtml

Charlie Stephens

[fords]

Gents - I knew there was a reason I joined the Forum. After installing then float-a-Motor mounts when I installed my new engine, I notice as I engage the clutch the pedals and shift lever and other things move around a bit more than I remember. So I am going back to the original mounts. On this subject I noticed I had to shim the right side FaM to make up for 1/8 inch gap. Do ya'll think I have a bend in frame? Thanks

[fords]

Gents - I knew there was a reason I joined the Forum. After installing then float-a-Motor mounts when I installed my new engine, I notice as I engage the clutch the pedals and shift lever and other things move around a bit more than I remember. So I am going back to the original mounts. On this subject I noticed I had to shim the right side FaM to make up for 1/8 inch gap. Do ya'll think I have a bend in frame? Thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

You need to use a straight edge or string pulled tight to determine if you have a bent frame. They like to bend by the rear motor mount, and this will make the bottom of the hood have a large gap, unless someone did some shimming to fix the gap.