31 Roadster - Won't Restart / No Spark

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you don't have 6 volts on the movable contact when the points are open and the key is ON, then you do need to remove the upper plate to check the wire. It's no big deal, and if you set the rotor as in my picture, you won't have to worry about resetting the timing. Just be sure to leave the tranny in neutral and don't move the crankshaft after setting the rotor to the position pictured, which is TDC for #1 to fire. Just reinstall the cam and rotor in the same position.

Also make sure the condenser has the thick insulating washer in place. Without the thick insulating washer the screw may bottom out before the bus bar is tight, and this will make the brass condenser terminal spin. Once it spins, it is shot.

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by Bob C

You don't want to do that because your point gap will not be consistent.
You need to peen it like Marco's picture if it is loose.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I knew there was a reason why I didn't do what I wanted to do, and now I know why I didn't do it :-)

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Timing is not that hard, but if you want to leave it as is, then
Retard spark lever all the way up
Note position of rotor
Remove rotor and screw that holde the distributor cam
Remove cam and linkage arm
Remove plate and do whatever
Reassemble making sure lever is still fully retarded
Tighten distributor cam so rotor is in the original position

[Patrick L.]

You may be able to do this without having to set the ignition timing, but, setting it is not a hard thing to do. I think many folks make more out of it than need be. Its easy and done fairly quickly. Its also a good thing to know. Owning an old car is fun isn't it.

[katy]

to set the ignition timing on these motors, just need the test light.

I was taught to use the eyeball method, no need for a test light, w/the timing pin in the dimple set the points so they just start to open for #1 cylinder, works every time.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by katy

I was taught to use the eyeball method, no need for a test light, w/the timing pin in the dimple set the points so they just start to open for #1 cylinder, works every time.

I agree, and that also works fine for me.
A light may be a hair more exact, but since the timing is set by hand, there's ample room to make it hit the mark while driving.

[Patrick L.]

I agree. There are many ways to figure out this little conundrum. But, a good eyeball works just fine.

[Coach Mike]

Guys - Just wanted to circle back on the final issue. It ended up being that the ignition cable was all the way in and shorting out. In retrospect.... I had undone the dash plate to rebuild the gas gauge and think that I may have pulled the ignition wire just enough to cause a short. Running great now with a lot of new distributor parts. Thanks to all for the great advice!

[Quigley1930]

I have had troubles sometimes with the switch cable that screws into the distributor. Just screw it in a tad or out. If this doesn't help unscrew the cable completely and see if you have six volts at the tip with the switch on. If not you got a switch problem. If you have six volts you got a problem in the distributor.

Sewall