The Ford Barn

pooch · 10-03-2010, 01:24 AM

Hope I am not wearing out my welcome on this site, but I am trying to come up to speed on these cars.

This 1928 instrument panel has small square slots in the heads of both top screws into tank.

2 lower side screws are normal slotted.

When working on starter the last few days, I notice the field coil screws are same square slot.

Are these 2 top screws correct for mid 1928?

atourer · 10-03-2010, 05:23 AM

Pooch, the screws are Robertson head used on early Canadian Model A's imported into Australia. They are a bit rare and indicate your car maybe quite original is it ?? I would pay care not to lose them. The 2 slotted ones on the bottom of the panel have probably been replaced at some stage.
Regarding the hole in the timber for your cut out switch I would wait before cutting the hole especially if it is quite an original car. You can put one straight on the battery post but and just have to open the battery cover to access it - thats what I did & you really only need to turn it off when you park it in the garage for safety sake.

clo2jim · 10-03-2010, 05:25 AM

They are correct if you have a Canadian Built Car. They are known as Robertson Head Screws. The inventor was from Ontario, Canada and the original building where they were manufactured still exists in Milton, Ontario, Canada.

My father told me once that Henry Ford tried to buy the Robertson Screw Company, because he knew that they were a far superior screw than the slotted screw, but Robertson refused, so he decided to go with the slotted screw head for US cars.

They are commonly used in Canada for carpentry work, deck screws, etc.

clo2jim · 10-03-2010, 05:28 AM

Both my 1930 Roadster (July build) and 1930 Coupe (May Build) are Canadian Built cars, both using Robertson screws throughout the cars

BillLee/Chandler, TX · 10-03-2010, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clo2jim

...They are commonly used in Canada for carpentry work, deck screws, etc.

They are commonly used for carpentry work, deck screws, etc. in the United States, too.

Commonly called "square drive" here since most of the droids at the big box stores wouldn't know what a Robertson Head was.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-03-2010, 05:48 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

BTW, what is the reason for using 12 volts instead of the correct 6 volts? I'm real happy with the starting and lights on my 28 Phaeton using 6 volts.

If you need 12 volts for a phone or such, they make a 12 volt inverter for that.

pooch · 10-03-2010, 06:46 AM

Tom, probably no other reason that the fact this car came with a 12 volt.

It seems it has been on full rego since 1928.

It is strange.

Here, we need annual inspections and the battery is dated 2006.

I found the headlight bulbs were burned out 6 volt, the stop light was 12 volt, the dash light was 12 volt and the tail light was a not burned out 6 volt.

So, this probably means the tail light has not worked since at least 2006.

How they got it annually passed is beyond me.

I suppose I could fit a 6 volt battery, but as you know, I was having overcharging problems with the powerhouse doing about 18 volts and amps off the planet.

I did charge an old 6 volt battery I had here and fitted it and jumped it off 12 to start and unhooked, but the powerhouse still showed over 15 volts on the 6 volt battery and rising.

So, at the moment, I think I should leave it at 12 with a temporary 12 volt alternater fitted and reduce the current to the 1/2 inch starter and look at fixing the powerhouse later on and maybe doing 6 volts then.

I will not bore hole now I know car is rare.

pooch · 10-03-2010, 07:22 AM

Tom, in answer to your question on original, here is car.

Unoriginal is.....

rattle can lighter green blow over paint on front, (will be rectified soon)

12 volt battery

ignition switch

some wiring with fuse box fitted

Painted instrument panel (should be chrome or nickel ? )

missing headlight switch and floor dimmer fitted, soon to be rectified to original style

new roof vinyl at some stage (I doubt this one could be 82 years old, although inside padding looks original)

recovered front and back seats and rear side trim, original door trims and scuttle trim and original back of front seat "hession"

fitted towbar

square ended speedo cable on both ends with correct oval speedo points to a 30-31 gearbox drive at least.

original items of note of age that have lasted ..

exhaust and muffler

radiator (club guy said it was)

good solid timber frame/floor with great closing doors

10-03-2010, 01:24 AM	#1
pooch Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: South Coast NSW Australia Posts: 2,596	Dash panel screws Hope I am not wearing out my welcome on this site, but I am trying to come up to speed on these cars. This 1928 instrument panel has small square slots in the heads of both top screws into tank. 2 lower side screws are normal slotted. When working on starter the last few days, I notice the field coil screws are same square slot. Are these 2 top screws correct for mid 1928?

10-03-2010, 05:23 AM	#2
atourer Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 17	Re: Dash panel screws Pooch, the screws are Robertson head used on early Canadian Model A's imported into Australia. They are a bit rare and indicate your car maybe quite original is it ?? I would pay care not to lose them. The 2 slotted ones on the bottom of the panel have probably been replaced at some stage. Regarding the hole in the timber for your cut out switch I would wait before cutting the hole especially if it is quite an original car. You can put one straight on the battery post but and just have to open the battery cover to access it - thats what I did & you really only need to turn it off when you park it in the garage for safety sake.

10-03-2010, 05:25 AM	#3
clo2jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada Posts: 175	Re: Dash panel screws They are correct if you have a Canadian Built Car. They are known as Robertson Head Screws. The inventor was from Ontario, Canada and the original building where they were manufactured still exists in Milton, Ontario, Canada. My father told me once that Henry Ford tried to buy the Robertson Screw Company, because he knew that they were a far superior screw than the slotted screw, but Robertson refused, so he decided to go with the slotted screw head for US cars. They are commonly used in Canada for carpentry work, deck screws, etc.

10-03-2010, 05:28 AM	#4
clo2jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada Posts: 175	Re: Dash panel screws Both my 1930 Roadster (July build) and 1930 Coupe (May Build) are Canadian Built cars, both using Robertson screws throughout the cars

10-03-2010, 05:48 AM	#6
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Dash panel screws Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) BTW, what is the reason for using 12 volts instead of the correct 6 volts? I'm real happy with the starting and lights on my 28 Phaeton using 6 volts. If you need 12 volts for a phone or such, they make a 12 volt inverter for that.

10-03-2010, 06:46 AM	#7
pooch Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: South Coast NSW Australia Posts: 2,596	Re: Dash panel screws Tom, probably no other reason that the fact this car came with a 12 volt. It seems it has been on full rego since 1928. It is strange. Here, we need annual inspections and the battery is dated 2006. I found the headlight bulbs were burned out 6 volt, the stop light was 12 volt, the dash light was 12 volt and the tail light was a not burned out 6 volt. So, this probably means the tail light has not worked since at least 2006. How they got it annually passed is beyond me. I suppose I could fit a 6 volt battery, but as you know, I was having overcharging problems with the powerhouse doing about 18 volts and amps off the planet. I did charge an old 6 volt battery I had here and fitted it and jumped it off 12 to start and unhooked, but the powerhouse still showed over 15 volts on the 6 volt battery and rising. So, at the moment, I think I should leave it at 12 with a temporary 12 volt alternater fitted and reduce the current to the 1/2 inch starter and look at fixing the powerhouse later on and maybe doing 6 volts then. I will not bore hole now I know car is rare.

10-03-2010, 07:22 AM	#8
pooch Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: South Coast NSW Australia Posts: 2,596	Re: Dash panel screws Tom, in answer to your question on original, here is car. Unoriginal is..... rattle can lighter green blow over paint on front, (will be rectified soon) 12 volt battery ignition switch some wiring with fuse box fitted Painted instrument panel (should be chrome or nickel ? ) missing headlight switch and floor dimmer fitted, soon to be rectified to original style new roof vinyl at some stage (I doubt this one could be 82 years old, although inside padding looks original) recovered front and back seats and rear side trim, original door trims and scuttle trim and original back of front seat "hession" fitted towbar square ended speedo cable on both ends with correct oval speedo points to a 30-31 gearbox drive at least. original items of note of age that have lasted .. exhaust and muffler radiator (club guy said it was) good solid timber frame/floor with great closing doors