Model B Block

[Chris Haynes]

I am searching for a usable Model B Block. Any leads appreciated.

[Railcarmover]

Check Bakersfield Craigslist under auto parts by owner 'ford flathead'....it looked like a b block,get better pics from the seller

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

Check Bakersfield Craigslist under auto parts by owner 'ford flathead'....it looked like a b block,get better pics from the seller

I found this one which is an A engine and transmission.
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/p...293276194.html

[Railcarmover]

it has a B carb,couldnt see the fuel pump plate..did you call him?

[Marshall V. Daut]

If a seller won't guarantee the block contains no cracks, move on to the next seller. He's either trying to unload a block with known cracks or is too cheap to have the block magnafluxed. Unlike Model A blocks, Model B blocks are notorious for cracking in places other than near valve seats. Try for a "B" short block with the stubby-eared counterweights swedged on at the factory. That was the second "B" crankshaft iteration, I believe. The third one with the large counterweights cast as part of the crank shaft are usually cracked. One respected builder once told me that only 1 out of 10 such cranks sent to him with engines to be rebuilt did not have a crack, meaning 9 out of 10 did have cracks. Not good odds for you. The first "B" crank did not have counterweights, by the way.
Or maybe you already knew all this?
Marshall

[Charlie Stephens]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

it has a B carb,couldnt see the fuel pump plate..did you call him?

The outside oil line says it is a Model A.

Charlie Stephens

[Railcarmover]

thanks charlie

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

it has a B carb,couldnt see the fuel pump plate..did you call him?

You need to look again. It is an A.

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

If a seller won't guarantee the block contains no cracks, move on to the next seller. He's either trying to unload a block with known cracks or is too cheap to have the block magnafluxed. Unlike Model A blocks, Model B blocks are notorious for cracking in places other than near valve seats. Try for a "B" short block with the stubby-eared counterweights swedged on at the factory. That was the second "B" crankshaft iteration, I believe. The third one with the large counterweights cast as part of the crank shaft are usually cracked. One respected builder once told me that only 1 out of 10 such cranks sent to him with engines to be rebuilt did not have a crack, meaning 9 out of 10 did have cracks. Not good odds for you. The first "B" crank did not have counterweights, by the way.
Or maybe you already knew all this?
Marshall

Thanks Marshall,
Its old news. Pressure testing is also a must.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Ron Kelley had me fill my bare "B" block with diesel fuel before sending it to him for rebuilding. Fill it right to the top so that you can see the fuel level in the coolant passageway holes almost at the deck height. Make sure the block is level when doing this. If the diesel fuel level does not drop in two or three days, there's a pretty good chance that the block doesn't have any cracks. If the level does drop, check the block over for signs of moisture on the bare metal or dripping from the block. This would be a preliminary step before pressure checking it. If the fuel level drops, there's not much point in pressure checking the block because you already know there is at least one crack somewhere in the block.
A visual inspection of the valve area on the top deck can often reveal the more common Model "B" cracks. But they can also happen in the deep bowls of the block where you wouldn't expect them to be or are easy to find. $400 later with one of my past "B" blocks after a truck repair shop welded a 3" crack at the bottom of a cylinder (after heating it in an oven for three days), that crack was history. But after rebuilding the engine and driving it less than 1000 miles, a new crack developed. Be forewarned, readers.
Lots of good information about "B" engines in "Secrets of Speed" issues, at least until the topic of building speedsters pushed such useful information off the pages 15 years ago. 'Dunno what can be found in the issues since then. Too much speedster info pushed ME out of re-subscribing. But that's grist for another mill. Check issues prior to about 2004 for relevant Model "B" articles and discussions. And don't forget Jim Brierley's excellent 4ever4 newsletters! Great stuff in there, too, to guide performance engine builders, as well as his comprehensive book about four bangers.
Marshall

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

Ron Kelley had me fill my bare "B" block with diesel fuel before sending it to him for rebuilding. Fill it right to the top so that you can see the fuel level in the coolant passageway holes almost at the deck height. Make sure the block is level when doing this. If the diesel fuel level does not drop in two or three days, there's a pretty good chance that the block doesn't have any cracks. If the level does drop, check the block over for signs of moisture on the bare metal or dripping from the block. This would be a preliminary step before pressure checking it. If the fuel level drops, there's not much point in pressure checking the block because you already know there is at least one crack somewhere in the block.
A visual inspection of the valve area on the top deck can often reveal the more common Model "B" cracks. But they can also happen in the deep bowls of the block where you wouldn't expect them to be or are easy to find. $400 later with one of my past "B" blocks after a truck repair shop welded a 3" crack at the bottom of a cylinder (after heating it in an oven for three days), that crack was history. But after rebuilding the engine and driving it less than 1000 miles, a new crack developed. Be forewarned, readers.
Lots of good information about "B" engines in "Secrets of Speed" issues, at least until the topic of building speedsters pushed such useful information off the pages 15 years ago. 'Dunno what can be found in the issues since then. Too much speedster info pushed ME out of re-subscribing. But that's grist for another mill. Check issues prior to about 2004 for relevant Model "B" articles and discussions. And don't forget Jim Brierley's excellent 4ever4 newsletters! Great stuff in there, too, to guide performance engine builders, as well as his comprehensive book about four bangers.
Marshall

Don't forget Jim's book as well as the newsletters a lot of good reading there on several subjects pertaining to A's & B's