new engine seized, from sitting***FIXED***

[barron]

I just put back together my coupe only to discover that the engine is seized, its been sitting under cover for about 6-7 years after rebuild, sprayed pb blaster down the holes, let sit for a day then dragged the car in gear for a bit.... no luck, now I have tranny fluid down the holes.... any ideas?

[barron]

oh yeah, clutch is of course stuck as well

[Purdy Swoft]

The best penetrant that I have found is Kroil They sell different versions and the silikroil is the best. Kroil will probably do the job in a day or two. I have had good results with kerosene it just takes a little longer. I have NEVER had good results with diesel fuel as a penetrant. The smell of diesel alone is reason enough for me, especially if you spill some on your clothing.

[ldj1002]

Originally Posted by barron

I just put back together my coupe only to discover that the engine is seized, its been sitting under cover for about 6-7 years after rebuild, sprayed pb blaster down the holes, let sit for a day then dragged the car in gear for a bit.... no luck, now I have tranny fluid down the holes.... any ideas?

Didya check for sure it would turn 6-7 years ago?

[Tim]

Kroil is great but very expensive in large quantities. IF you mix 50/50 Acetone and trans fluid you get the same if not better results and alot cheaper by the bulk. Take the plugs out and fill the cylinders up and let it sit for a couple of days. Then leave the plugs out and then try and rotate it. IF that doesn't work pull the head off, and gently tap the pistons with a 2x4 and a dead blow hammer. You will hear a definitive change in the sound of the piston when it breaks loose. Once free turn it over by hand until all the valves are moving freely as well. Be patient they are tough but need a little love.


Tim

[Benson]

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Maybe the starter is stuck ... this will lock the engine up tight in both directions!

1. Turn off key ... you don't want a run-a-way car if it frees up and starts ...

2. Put it in 3rd gear and rock car forward and backwards with 2-3 people ... if you hear a clunk or clang and it starts rolling then you have found the problem.

Common occurance after sitting for sometime.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by ldj1002

Didya check for sure it would turn 6-7 years ago?

Exactly my question, you may have bearings that were adjusted too tight. Maybe the oil on the bearings dried out and is acting like glue. Was it run to break it in which means moisture may have rusted the rings to the cylinder walls.

Charlie Stephens

[John Duden]

my grandpa's A had been seized up for 40 years, and my dad got it free in a week, he plain diesel
John

[Fred K-OR]

Was there any way the little old mouse could have gotten in your crankcase? When I started my rebuild on my huckster, I found many mouose nests in the oil pan and the engine was froze up plus the drip pan was rusted out.

[Purdy Swoft]

You will more than likely have some stuck valves, maybe lifters stuck also. I would remove the manifold assy. and the valve cover. That way you can spray some penetrant on the valve stems through the ports in the side of the engine and spray penetrant around the lifters. This would be a good time to spray penetrant in the passages that lead to the main bearings and cam bearings. It wouldn't hurt to probe the oil passages with a wire or welding rod to free up oil that may have hardened over time, this was mentioned a couple of days ago and does pertain. After the penetrant has a few days to do its work I usually remove the starter and use a cheater bar through the flywheel housing on the teeth of the flywheel to turn the engine. Good luck, I have used this method many times to unstick frozen up engines.

[Pilotdave]

I saw a tool last night at a club meeting that would be perfect for this task once sure that the issue is only corrosion. Consisted of a starter motor base plate with a bendix gear on one end of a section of shaft and a 1/2" socket on the other. Bolt plate on in place of starter; gear engages the flywheel; breaker bar goes in the socket - supposedly gives you a ton of leverage while engaging several teeth on the flywheel. I think we are going to make some!

[Purdy Swoft]

I forgot to add this info but here is the direct source for Kroil phone 800-311-3374 The last gallon that I bought, about five years ago was only $27.25 and it included one spray can of aerokroil. I don't have any stock in the company but kroil has saved parts for me that would have otherwise been scrap iron.

[Jack '29 Sport Coupe]

Marvel Mystery Oil work for me. I let it sit for a day and it did the job.

Jack

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Pilotdave

I saw a tool last night at a club meeting that would be perfect for this task once sure that the issue is only corrosion. Consisted of a starter motor base plate with a bendix gear on one end of a section of shaft and a 1/2" socket on the other. Bolt plate on in place of starter; gear engages the flywheel; breaker bar goes in the socket - supposedly gives you a ton of leverage while engaging several teeth on the flywheel. I think we are going to make some!

When you get one made, please post pictures. Looks like something that would be worthwhile to have -- even for a fresh rebuild that is sorta stiff while trying to time it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here is the tool I made just over a year ago after seeing it on Jim Mason's web site.
This is the best way to free up a stuck engine.

Also be sure the starter bolt isn't too long and locking the flywheel. If you pull the car, be sure to only use high gear as it gives the best turning torque to the motor and is the least likely to break something in the tranny.

If the engine was properly oiled (assembly lube) when it was put together and all openings were sealed to keep out moisture and mice, then the engine should turn over just fine, even after setting 7 years. If the engine was run for a few minutes, then put to rest for seven years, you may as well start taking it apart right now, because the rings will most likely be stuck in the grooves, and the cylinder walls may be rusty. I also would use Kroil, or a mix of accetone and ATF to try to free it.

BTW, I used bad parts to make the tool, so I didn't have to waste any good parts.

[Clem Clement]

Then there is the ultilmate method. I don't recommend it and don't litigate me if you try it. Pull the plugs of course. Find the cylinder with the piston near the top (Dead on top brobably won't work.) Weld a grease fitting to a spark plug base. Start pumping grease into that cylinder. Something will give. Rainmaker Ron and I have a bud in NE that did this sorta successfully. Yes the engine turned over. In his excitement of success he got the engine loose and fired it up inside his 1 car garage. Later he could laugh about it, but at the time that garage would never rust cause of the greasy smoke deposits. Rainmanker, didn't his wife have a say afterwards??
Clem

[Bob C]

Clem, I did the same thing to break loose a 1930 Caterpillar I was
restoring. I have 15 foot high roof in the shop, I got it loose gave it
a spin with the hand crank and 10 years later I still have grease on
the ceiling.

Bob

[barron]

Wow thanks fellas, lots of good stuff here, I pulled the starter before the adventure, the motor spun years ago (I think) plugs always in, been rocking it in third, would love to have that little tool with teeth on it, but don't want to wreck good stuff to make one, I think I might hate cars

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I forgot to add this info but here is the direct source for Kroil phone 800-311-3374 The last gallon that I bought, about five years ago was only $27.25 and it included one spray can of aerokroil. I don't have any stock in the company but kroil has saved parts for me that would have otherwise been scrap iron.

What a difference a few years makes,

Kroil 1 gal. can - $46.95 and no free spray can.

[Purdy Swoft]

Yep, I'm really not surprised oil prices have skyrocketed. If it saves the engine It should be worthwhile. I unstuck more than one engine with that gallon and still had some left

[barron]

Think it will work with tranny fluid on top the pistons? It's all still sitting there

[J and M Machine]

I have never had the need to try this and don't know if it works but you've tried everything else might as well try this. At least you can get your money back if it doesn't work.!
http://www.seized-engine.com/

[Ed in Maine]

I had the exact same situation, new engine and it sat in my garage for 10 years before I was ready to start it. I did use the 12 V battery out of my modern car. I put the 12 battery on the floor of the passenger side and used jumper cables direct to the starter. I used the standard 6 V battery to run the ignition. Then I hooked the front bumper of the car to my tractor (very slow speed, car transmission in high gear). For first trial, I took out the plugs just to get things turning easier. Then with the car being towed, I let out the clutch very slowly until I could hear the clutch just start to take up, and then I hit the starter switch. That jolt from the starter and the torque provided by towing the car was enough to start spinning the engine. I was one happy guy when I saw that fan start turning. Then let the clutch out all the way. I towed the car about a mile. I then installed the spark plugs and repeated the procedure. The car started in about 200 feet of towing. DON'T FORGET TO TORQUE THE HEAD AFTER FIVE MINUTES OF RUNNING. I didn't and screwed up the head gasket. Torque the head often until there is no change in torque. I was surprised to find that the car needed 12V and about 1 1/2 hour of running time before it would start on 6 V. Then one day, the engine started on 6V just fine. Good luck, Ed

[john in illinois]

A friend just had a rebuilt engine that would not turn over. Pulled it in gear and used a breaker bar and every thing that you could think of to free it up. It turned out that a bolt in the flywheel was too long and locked up on the rear main.

This is a long shot but might be worth checking.

Good luck,John

[barron]

still stuck

[Purdy Swoft]

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Automatic transmission fluid or marvel mystery oil by themself is too thick in my opinion to ever unstick a tightly frozen up engine. You may try pouring some kerosene or acetone through the plug holes on top of the automatic transmission fluid that you have already added. The problem may be that you can't stir and mix the fluids unless you remove the head. The valves and lifters will also need attention. I have never seen a rusted stuck engine that some of the valves were not also stuck. If the valve is stuck in the closed position, that in itself will lock up the engine. If you don't want to spend the money for a gallon of Kroil you could try some Liquid Wrench or PB blaster in an aerosol on the valves.

[d.j. moordigian]

barron,
I did an engine for a friend that sat 19 years on the engine stand in his DRY shop.
Couldn't turn it over with 2 6' bars on each end....and it was all lubed up. I know
you don't want to here this. Take it apart, fix it, before you break or screw it up!
Do it right, not twice
Dudley

[Milton]

barron,
Sad to say but, I'm in agreement with d.j.

While you disassemble the engine continuously try to spin it. My money is on the rings so once the head is off try carefully tapping a 3 1/2" dowel with a hammer on top of the pistons.

[barron]

head comes off today, I'll of course take pics

[barron]

Ok I'm the idiot.... the inside starter bolt was a tiny bit to long, i locked the flywheel so well that I dragged the car with all the success of a comedy show, pulled the starter, spun easy.... bolt the starter back in, prison style lock down.... replaced the inside bolt, now to get it fired off.... filled motor with water and of course some is dripping out the head gasket and water pump (nos 3 bolt) and lastly the clutch disc is stuck

[MCHinson]

Glad you got the engine free. If the clutch is rusted to the flywheel the technical tip I found on the MAFCA website years ago worked for me.

Jack up the rear end. Put the rear on jack stands. Start the car in third gear. Let it run for a couple of minutes at 20 mph or so. Depress and hold the clutch pedal in. Stomp on the brake pedal. That should break it free.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by barron

Wow thanks fellas, lots of good stuff here, I pulled the starter before the adventure, the motor spun years ago (I think) plugs always in, been rocking it in third, would love to have that little tool with teeth on it, but don't want to wreck good stuff to make one, I think I might hate cars

Kinda strange, You pulled the starter, engine wouldn't turn, now it was the starter bolt locking the engine and now it spins freely.

[barron]

yep, i pulled the old starter, replaced with one I knew worked, failed to crank the motor between changes!

[Dave72dt]

Don't feel too bad about the "DUH" moment Everybody has them, but most of us only admit them to ourselves. Glad it was solved, glad it was simple, and thanks for posting the fix. Something for the rest of us to learn by.

[ldj1002]

Sooo that motor, after all, wouldn't turn when you set it up several years ago. That was my thought originally.