new rebuilt flathead is tight

[allford]

Well I rebuilt my flathead myself, it's ready to start I have it mounted on a steel 4 wheel cart. I can roll it outside to make trial starts without burning down the shed. My problem is the motor is tight. Anybody ever had this issue? Do you think I could remove some spark plugs and make it run. That would make less compresson for the starter. I know the firing order is 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2, Anybody know what plugs would be best to remove and allow motor to run? I have 15 lbs. oil pressure running on the starter with all plugs removed. The motor cough a few times and tried to start but I'm fraid of doing damage to the starter. Wish I could pull start but my running gears need a lot of work before I'm ready to mount the motor. would starter spray maybe help? I think mybe if It started and ran a little it would get free. Any help and suggestions would sure be great.

I must attend a Church fish fry dinner this evening but will be back at again late tonight and eary Saturday morning. the motor is a 39 Merc. that has been setting for 30 years. It is a lot of fun working on the old engine and I want to hear it run.

Thanks in advance

Alan in Owensboro Kentucky

[Scott H]

If you can spin it with the starter, I say go for it.
Put the plugs in, fill the fuel bowl with gas, dribble just a thimble-full down the throat and give it a try.
I like that you're doing it outside, much safer than in closed space!
Keep any source of gas at least 10 -20 feet away, out of the tripping zone and away from sparks.
Good luck!

[Ronnie]

Crap shoot!!! disaster!!!!!!!! Fubar!!!! What is the extent of the rebuild tell us what you performed so far as a rebuild.

What do you consider tight

Ronnie

[Mike51Merc]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

Crap shoot!!! disaster!!!!!!!! Fubar!!!! What is the extent of the rebuild tell us what you performed so far as a rebuild.

What do you consider tight

Ronnie

Agreed. Sounds downright scary. What kind of rebuild is done by someone with questions like these?

[Mart]

If it spins over ok with the plugs out, and then seems tight with them in, could it be too far advanced, so that the engine is effectively trying to fire backwards and putting extra load on the starter??

I too am worried about your statement, are there any fellas local that could cast a fresh eye over it?

Mart.

[BrianCT]

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Originally Posted by Mike51Merc

Agreed. Sounds downright scary. What kind of rebuild is done by someone with questions like these?

This is too much like a HAMB reply.
You guys are too tough. It is a learning experience. Maybe he has a poor connection or bad starter. The fact that it turns over is a start. No one asked how hard it was to turn by hand. I had a similar problem on my firs project and it turned out to be a bad connection at the foot starter switch.

[Charlie ny]

All,
If the starter motor spins it over as you say and you see 15
psi oil pressure that is a GOOD SIGN. As mentioned check that all electrical
connections are sound. Forget it if you are using jumper cables...use
proper cables. Make sure your battery is 'up' to it. Yep..check the timing.
Be right sure the starter is well grounded to the pan. The devil is always
in these obscure details.
Let us know the good news when you get 'er running!
Charlie ny

[FlatheadTed]

If it spins Ok on the starter it should start ,The question on the advance ? sounds like you are unsure of the condition of the distributor ,As a rough guide the little advance plate should be one notch up .dropping it retards it, I would put 12volts on it or even 18 ,a 6&12 not for to long ,short bursts

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

If you can turn the engine over with a 1/2in. ratchet with the plugs out it's not to tight. Your problem is either a bad starter or the batt cables are not good. If your starting it on a pallet, put the batt. on the floor close to the starter, Use a good fat batt. cable to ground. I like to use a trans bolt just above the starter. Use another fat cable to jump the starter. Don't try to start it with just a cheap set of jumper cables. Walt

[Coupe35]

When I have an engine bored for oversize pistons I always tell the shop to go on the high side of the tolerances. Makes for a cooler running engine and a lot less drag. Since I do not plan to put thousands of miles on it, just makes sense to me.

[rooboy]

If engine dosn't back fire at any time when turning on the starter is a good sign ign. leads are on the correct plugs.......re check timing...if ok.... retard slightly, this will reduce the starter load...whack a 12v batt. on it, making sure you use good cables and connections..When it starts keep the revs' above a 1000 rpm as much as possible to make sure you splash the cam with plenty of oil.... run for at least 10mins' if you can.......tightness is not an issue.....good luck.......

[41Fordor]

New 4 ring pistons have a lot of drag. My machinist set the full floating rod bearing clearances by micrometer and I had to trust him. Mine felt too hard to turn over by hand but the original 6V started cranked it over easily enough. I had my helmet distributor rebuilt and timed by Skip Haney for immediate start up for cam breakin after I had oil pressure on a manual gauge.

[Ronnie]

Can you turn it over with a 1/2 ratchet as Walt asked?

Ronnie

[allford]

I took the motor all the way down, replaced sleeves,pistons,rings, ground crank,floater rod bearings,(that was fun and a learning deal) main bearings, rebuilt dist. rebuilt carburator, starter, replaced valves and ground seats. I have rebuilt Model A engines for 50 years but this was my first flathead V eight.

Well got in, read the replys checked the timing, set it back, hit the starter went over about 3 rounds and it took off. I did all this work to this motor and I overlooked this simple thing. It starts now so fast it is almost scary. ( getting old sure makes person do strange things and have funny ideas )
Thanks for the help and reminding about the timing.

[Mike51Merc]

Originally Posted by BrianCT

This is too much like a HAMB reply.
You guys are too tough. It is a learning experience. Maybe he has a poor connection or bad starter. The fact that it turns over is a start. No one asked how hard it was to turn by hand. I had a similar problem on my firs project and it turned out to be a bad connection at the foot starter switch.

I agree Brian, that was a bit HAMBY. I saw what he wrote, but what I heard was "I just rebuilt my flattie and it's so tight it won't crank fast enough to start. Will removing the sparkplugs help?"

I'll try to save my cheap shots for places they're appreciated

[BrianCT]

To quote Bill S. "All's well that ends well"

[Barry WNY]

Putting one together it has to be constantly turned so a real bind won't go un-noticed. Putting mine together front main cap bound up. Check bearings, crank, then roundness of main holes. Big differences in front vertical & horizontal dimensions, took the block back to the shop & they honed the front main hole perfectly. The original bearings fit pretty good, motor turned easily, crank really did not need much grinding. Could the factory have honed the front main bearing when a problem came up during assembly? Only way
I could see it happening.

[John Kennedy]

Good to hear ya got it running! Job well done!

[Ralph Moore]

I would never use either(starter spray) on a new engine!

[Sid the Maineiac]

Congratulations on your rebuild ! You came to the right place to ask questions and get good answers.There are a lot of good minds with years of knowledge here on the old flatties.Have fun with that engine and be proud of your accomplishment! The only dumb question is one you don't ask!!

[Mart]

Hey, good result!

Well done!

Mart.

[joel]

Congrats on another new engine!