scat rods

[1931flathead]

there are couple numbers for scat rods to use witch one best to use

8740chromoly steal
or
arp2000 alloy

for 4 1/4 crank

thanks

[Bored&Stroked]

That refers to the bolts. Given the low horsepower of a flathead, I can't imagine that you'd need to pay the extra $$$ for the ARP 2000 alloy. You didn't give us much to go on as far as the rest of the build, but it really doesn't matter - you don't need the expensive rod bolts.

[1931flathead]

ok thanks just the rod bolt strength 70.00 for them

8ba block with a 4 1/4 crank haven't on bore size yet alum heads

it is going into a 1931 model a Tudor that was chopped before I bought it but need to be competed yet will be sitting on a 1930 AA truck frame with a 4 inch drop axle and a 9 inch ford rear end going with a 4or5 speed transmission

[1931flathead]

here is what I was thinking about

eagle crank 102394250 4.1/4 crank

scat rods 2-239-7000-2000 7 inch rods

ross pistons 80571

ISKY cam 914000 400jr

[Ol' Ron]

I think it's great, especially if it's a race engine. However if it's for street I's 86 the jr and use a 1007B, alittle kinder to the valve train.

[1931flathead]

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it will be street but were I live not to much of big of towns around but will look into it

[Bored&Stroked]

Cam grinder "Pete" can make you one off of a core . . . his work is just about as good as it can get!

[1931flathead]

going buy couple thing each other week when I get paid so it might take a wile to get done but I only want to buy my parts one time so any help would be nice and from guy that built them I have own couple of them in the years ago

I was told the 59ab block had less trouble cracking them but that is just hear say the only thing the water dump into the center of the heads does that help ??


I found couple merc flatheads that are stuck one is for 500.00 and one for 600.00 both are complete motors 52 or 53 I could maybe sell the crank if it is good

[JSeery]

Be sure to pressure test the block before you put any work into it.

[1931flathead]

yes I been told that to check for crack and pressure check it I don't no witch way to go yet buy just a ford or buy the mercury one and hope to seal the parts to help out if the crank is good would work out ok

[Kahuna]

Follow JSeery's advice.
If your going to put a bunch of money into the engine, also have it sonic tested.
The $250.00 or so to do all the testing will be well spent.

[Bored&Stroked]

If somebody wants $500 or $600 for a stuck motor, then I'd be asking for a guarantee that the block is good at that price. Or at least split the difference if it is found to be bad. It is easy to go through a couple of these engines - only to find that they're bad. By the time you clean, mag test, sonic test, pressure test - you'll have another $250 (at least) into each one of them - plus your time.

Also, I would always see if they agreed that we could pull the heads before I make my final decision. Just pulling the heads and seeing what is inside can tell a lot of really bad ones, from ones with possibilities. I take an electric drill with a wire brush and clean all the areas between the valves and the bores - and wipe down with lacquer thinner. Then I take a magnifying glass and inspect these areas for cracks. I've decided to say "No" to quite a few due to this. Also, sometimes they've been full of water and everything is a mess - kind of nice to know that.

The front-end work is worth it in my book!

B&S

[1931flathead]

I think the one for 500.00 I think he would let me do it but I don't know the other guy my body has one it is a running 53 mercury for 1200.00 you can here it run but that to much to pay for a engine that not going to use much of it

thanks for you guys help

also found a 1948 but it is stuck for 150.00 I know I could pull the heads on that one and look

[40cpe]

Check for cracks in the water jacket and pan rails, too

[1931flathead]

the thought was a 1948 but he sent me a pic of it is a 1949 to 53 complete from carb to pan flywheel to fan for 150.00

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 1931flathead

the thought was a 1948 but he sent me a pic of it is a 1949 to 53 complete from carb to pan flywheel to fan for 150.00

Get him down to $100 and take a chance on this one. Can always put early heads on a later block.

[1931flathead]

going to look at it this weekend and one thing nice it is pulled out he said it came out of a 1948 for pickup sitting in a back of a truck with a camper and it is only 40 miles from me

[1931flathead]

talk to him today bought the motor and a t5 transmission from him for 200.00 should be able to come out on it if the block is cracked

[1931flathead]

pic of the engine and transmission

[1931flathead]

pic of the body when I got it and I'm working on my frame