Best Place for Electric Fuel Pump

[JAKEFORD]

In my old 53 ford the fuel pump went out in the middle of winter. I removed the pump, left the push rod, made an aluminum plate and mounted the old Bendix fuel pump in the area of the old pump. The lines fit perfectly.

Installed a toggle switch and away I went. This pump worked flawlessly in that location for at least 4 years at which time I sold the car. When a vapor lock was starting you could hear the pump speed up but most of the time it was a gentle tick.

Now since that experience I found out the preferred location for the pump is near the tank so the pump pushes instead of sucks the fuel.

Based on my good experience I am a bit confused.

Comments?

[Vic Piano]

I've installed electric fuel pumps in a number of my Flatheads, both 6 and 12 volt. I've always placed the electric pump as close to the gas tank as possible. I would never put an electric fuel pump on top of the intake manifold for a number of reasons, not the least of which would be the heat rising from the intake. I also install additional fuel filters between the gas tank and the electric fuel pump, as well as a fuel pressure regulator (set at 2.5 lbs.) and a 'kill switch'. I've also converted OEM fuel pumps to 'pass through' pumps and mounted them in the stock position, giving an original look to the engine.

[deuce_roadster]

The way an electric pump is designed it doesn't suck much but pushes real well. That is why the preferred location is closest to the tank. That is also why most new cars with fuel injection that requires more pressure all have pumps mounted inside the tank.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by JAKEFORD

In my old 53 ford the fuel pump went out in the middle of winter. I removed the pump, left the push rod, made an aluminum plate and mounted the old Bendix fuel pump in the area of the old pump. The lines fit perfectly.

Installed a toggle switch and away I went. This pump worked flawlessly in that location for at least 4 years at which time I sold the car. When a vapor lock was starting you could hear the pump speed up but most of the time it was a gentle tick.

Now since that experience I found out the preferred location for the pump is near the tank so the pump pushes instead of sucks the fuel.

Based on my good experience I am a bit confused.

Comments?

Lucky?

[4dFord/SC]

Mine is mounted on the rear cross rail.

[Ross F-1]

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As long as it is mounted at or below the bottom of the gas tank, you should be OK. It's trying to lift the gas up where pumps have trouble. Being 3 or 4 feet away from the tank won't hurt.

[JAKEFORD]

The original pump is intended to suck as the pump on the manifold is higher than the gas tank. I have rebuilt several flathead fuel pumps so am a bit familiar with their design. I also rebuilt this Bendix and its mechanical design is similar to the flathead. I would guess the pump is probably a good foot above the tank

So why shouldn't the Bendix suck similar to the flathead?

I agree that its better to have the pump push as you don't get the effect of vapor pressure and vapor locks but in my case it worked out OK with the electric pump in place of the Ford pump just like Henry designed it.

BTW the toggle switch was very useful to prime the carb for easy starting. It was also the "kill" switch

[JSeery]

When your pulling on the fuel you are dropping the pressure on it. If you are raising the level at the same time, that drops the pressure even more. The stock pump also conducts heat into the fuel. I would guess that the pressure drop with the electric pump was about the same as the original, but it was transfering less heat into the fuel. Believe you said it was getting into the vapor lock range because you could detect a sound change in the pump. Vapor lock depends on many factors, the pressure the fuel is seeing (suction, elevation, etc), the actual fuel mixture (different at different times of year or source), engine compartment temp and how much is being transfered to the fuel pump, carb, fuel line, etc. Lots of factors.

[Ford Freak]

The previous owner of my '52 F1 mounted a low pressure , electric pump on the firewall . It is probably around 4 ft. from the tank , and around 1ft. or so higher .
I don't know how long it has been on there , but it has worked fine for 2 yrs. now for me . Maybe I'm just lucky ? - F F

[Gumpy]

Originally Posted by Vic Piano

I've installed electric fuel pumps in a number of my Flatheads, both 6 and 12 volt. I've always placed the electric pump as close to the gas tank as possible. I would never put an electric fuel pump on top of the intake manifold for a number of reasons, not the least of which would be the heat rising from the intake. I also install additional fuel filters between the gas tank and the electric fuel pump, as well as a fuel pressure regulator (set at 2.5 lbs.) and a 'kill switch'. I've also converted OEM fuel pumps to 'pass through' pumps and mounted them in the stock position, giving an original look to the engine.

I have done the same with good results

[Ross F-1]

Is this Bendix pump a diaphragm type, actuated by an electric motor? Diaphragms are much better at sucking than the typical modern electric pump, which are (at the cheap end) just a solenoid-driven piston shuttling back and forth, or (on the high end) a gear-rotor type.

Ford Freak, I changed out the rubber hose into the stock pump on a friend's F-1 and was surprised to have gas pouring out of the end of the steel line. He had about 1/2 tank of gas at the time. There isn't as much lift on trucks with the vertical tanks in the cab, as on cars with a horizontal tank at frame level.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Like Vic, I have installed electric fuel pumps on all my hotrods, flathead or not. I usually set them up on my rear crossmember, and try to make them as easily serviceable and removable as possible. I have always used the electric pumps as a "first start" device, allowing enough fuel to be pushed up through my fuel pump to the carb/carbs. Once started, I turn off the electric pump and run off the stock unit. This is so I do not have to crank the car like crazy before she will start - especially 6-volt cars - after sitting for some time. I also use a cap full of Yamalube to keep the rings free and negate the ethanol issues in old car fuel systems. Boaters use this stuff all the time. Just a capfull every fillup will do ya.

Lately I've been using airtex pumps I think they are called. They seem to last a lot longer than the regular electronic style units from Advance, Napa, etc. I also use a filter between the tank and pump, then one by/at the carb. My flathead carbs I run at 1.5 lbs of pressure with an inline fuel regulator close to the carbs, other carbs I run more between 2.5-3 lbs of pressure or whatever the manufacturer calls for.

There are so many advantages to running one it seems silly not to but that's a personal choice. Vapor lock gets just about everyone from time to time and running a vented cap with an electric fuel pump goes a long way to keeping vapor lock at bay. Just ask Vic! ( just kidding, Vic!)

[JAKEFORD]

The old Bendix was a diaphragm pump so that may explain why it worked so well as it was similar to the ford design.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by JAKEFORD

The old Bendix was a diaphragm pump so that may explain why it worked so well as it was similar to the ford design.

That's why it eventually failed. This 'corn" gas is hard on the older diaphragm pumps. Get a rotary style pump for a replacement.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Vic Piano

I've installed electric fuel pumps in a number of my Flatheads, both 6 and 12 volt. I've always placed the electric pump as close to the gas tank as possible. I would never put an electric fuel pump on top of the intake manifold for a number of reasons, not the least of which would be the heat rising from the intake. I also install additional fuel filters between the gas tank and the electric fuel pump, as well as a fuel pressure regulator (set at 2.5 lbs.) and a 'kill switch'. I've also converted OEM fuel pumps to 'pass through' pumps and mounted them in the stock position, giving an original look to the engine.

ditto!!!!!

[JAKEFORD]

The old Bendix pump never failed. It worked like a champ all the time that I ran the car. I wished they made a pump like that today.

I used this pump in the 1960's when gas was gas. It ticked away very faithfully and kept the old engine running. When it sped up you knew a vapor lock was there but it quickly quieted down and all was well.

I would buy another if I could. "Modern" designs seemed to have taken over. I bought one at a Model A flea market for 5.00. Guy said he had it in his Chevy hot rod and even had a picture of it. He wanted 25.00 but took 5.00. I hope it works in my garden tractor!

I am not holding my breath!

[jerdan]

How do you convert stock pump to a pass through pump?

[Bored&Stroked]

Safety: Another thing that isn't a bad idea is to install a safety "roll-over" switch for an electric fuel pump. I know - never had one on any of my cars until I started racing at Bonneville. Makes a lot of sense in that it kills the pump if the car is on it's side or flipped over. Otherwise, it might just keep pumping raw fuel and if there is a fire (or the possibility of one), you'd sure hate to be in trapped in the car, or watch your car go up in an inferno.

Just throwing it out there . . . as something to think about if you're setting up a new system, new wiring, etc..

[JSeery]

The older I get the more I think about safety issues, just part of getting old I guess! I run both the impact/roller type switch (I use the Fox Mustang ones) and an oil pressure switch.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Safety: Another thing that isn't a bad idea is to install a safety "roll-over" switch for an electric fuel pump. I know - never had one on any of my cars until I started racing at Bonneville. Makes a lot of sense in that it kills the pump if the car is on it's side or flipped over. Otherwise, it might just keep pumping raw fuel and if there is a fire (or the possibility of one), you'd sure hate to be in trapped in the car, or watch your car go up in an inferno.

Just throwing it out there . . . as something to think about if you're setting up a new system, new wiring, etc..

I have installed "inertia" switches on several hot rods for customers with electric fuel pumps.
They are required on race cars with electric pumps.
Most modern cars have them.