installing new timing gear

[FrankWest]

I am installing my new timing gear tomorrow. Are there torque requirements for the cam Timing gear nut? I will put the car in 3rd gear, put the parking brake on, block the wheels...What else? Did someone say jam a rag between the gears? If I do that how will I remove the rag?

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I am installing my new timing gear tomorrow. Are there torque requirements for the cam Timing gear nut? I will put the car in 3rd gear, put the parking brake on, block the wheels...What else? Did someone say jam a rag between the gears? If I do that how will I remove the rag?

Turn the engine in the opposite direction.

Bob

[Patrick L.]

The torque on the gear retainer nut is TIT tight. 100+ #.
I've been putting a rag between the gears for 50+ years, on all, not just As. Apparently thats now not the thing to do, at least with fiber gears. There are some that want the cam gear clamped rigidly so there is no tension on the teeth.

[Mitch//pa]

Frank what cam gear did you decide to go with?

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Frank what cam gear did you decide to go with?

I chickened out and ordered aluminum.

figured fiber is soft against steel crank gear
Aluminum is soft against steel crank gear but won't crumble like fiber.
I did not want to replace the crank gear..Don't have 20 ton press and don't want to take the entirte front of my car apart.
If aluminum teeth are not its soft properties will eventually wear down by the steel crank gear for smooth running "self correcting?"

[FrankWest]

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Originally Posted by Bob C

Turn the engine in the opposite direction.

Bob

The hand crank only cranks in one direction? Is that the proper direction to release the rag?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

The hand crank only cranks in one direction? Is that the proper direction to release the rag?

Yes.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I chickened out and ordered aluminum.

figured fiber is soft against steel crank gear
Aluminum is soft against steel crank gear but won't crumble like fiber.
I did not want to replace the crank gear..Don't have 20 ton press and don't want to take the entirte front of my car apart.
If aluminum teeth are not its soft properties will eventually wear down by the steel crank gear for smooth running "self correcting?"

you didn't chicken out if you did you would have put a fiber in. let us know how it sounds when you getter running

[Mikeinnj]

Do NOT jam a rag between the cam and crank gears, you will be putting undue pressure on the new cam gear teeth, enough to damage them.

Here is a reply from the manufacturer (DMC Gears) of the aluminum and bronze cam gears when I asked him what the correct method of instaling the gear with the cam in the engine.

"On the cam gear nut- you don't want to use the teeth to stop the rotation of the cam. Best way is to remove the cam gear side cover, and clamp a bar of metal to the rim of the cam gear with a few c clamps and let the bar stop the cam rotation- you can put some sheetmetal between the c clamp and the gear face to keep from damaging the gear. Make sure the face of the cam is clean and burr free before putting the new gear on the cam. To put the crank gear on, heat it up to about 325/375 degrees and it will almost slide on- work fast and have a piece of pipe or tubing handy to seat the gear on the crankshaft with some hammer blows. Tighten the nut to at least 50 ft-lbs. Regards, Dan "

[tbirdtbird]

The clamping of the timing gear sounds like a wonderful idea. Except that I have never gotten it to work. You cannot achieve sufficient clamping force to stop the gear from turning.

Mike, have you actually gotten this to work?

Has anyone?

I doubt there will be an issue using a rag with an aluminum gear. I have had no trouble. I have also never seen an aluminum gear with damaged teeth.

Now, while some say to use an impact gun, I would suggest that the jarring action and recoil/rapid takeup of these guns would put quite a strain on the gear teeth...way more than a rag. After all, an impact gun is just a rotary jackhammer. If the cam were out of the car this method would be OK, but not so much if it is in the car.

BTW, Frank, good choice to go aluminum rather than fiber

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with tbird, and was wondering if the clamp would slip. I've always used a rag and never had a problem, but I think this warrants more study. When I get caught up I'm going to see about making some holding tool.

Don't hold your breath though..........I never seem to get caught up.

[Mike V. Florida]

There are many long time methods that have worked fine for years. The are also "newer
ways of doing things. Easier/better, maybe, maybe not, but if it gets the job done what does it really matter what method is used. Submit you methods, reason for doing it that way and let the reader decide what method to use. Just because a person does not use your method is NOT a reflection on you in any way.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

There are many long time methods that have worked fine for years. The are also "newer
ways of doing things. Easier/better, maybe, maybe not, but if it gets the job done what does it really matter what method is used. Submit you methods, reason for doing it that way and let the reader decide what method to use. Just because a person does not use your method is NOT a reflection on you in any way.

Hey Mike,
I agree. And, the method depends on if engine is in vehicle or on the 'bench'.
My method just accomplished on the engine stand, was to block the crank with crow/pry bar. Worked easy with bronze cam gear nut to 100 lbs.

[George Miller]

I always put a clamp on the gear. Just take the side cover off. Then put a good strong clamp across the gear. If you do a lot of engines and have mill. Take a piece of steel mill out the center, drill and tap for a 1/2 bolt. That makes a great clamp.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

you didn't chicken out if you did you would have put a fiber in. let us know how it sounds when you getter running

I mean I was Afraid that the fiber gear would break sooner rather than later.
I figured that the aluminum would be stronger.
I heard the can running for several hours before the timing gear gave out.
So I will know if I heard a strange whine and then kick myself for choosing aluminum.

[1931 flamingo]

Regardless of how you tighten the gear, the MOST important part of this operation is to make sure you get the timing marks aligned correctly. JMO

Paul in CT

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Regardless of how you tighten the gear, the MOST important part of this operation is to make sure you get the timing marks aligned correctly. JMO

Paul in CT

Thanks for the heads up...
I am writing all the steps I need to take to get the job done...
Just so I don't leave anything out. This Model B engine is shoehorned in the vehicle.

[mshmodela]

Frank,

Thanks for your post, let us know if there are any big sound differences... I would guess as you have that the Aluminum will fail before the steal gear yet stronger than a fiber one...

[FrankWest]

Help, Looking for the timing mark on the crank gear....
I found the key, wedge, but not the timing mark?
Maybe my eyes are not so good.....
Cleaned off any grease or oil.

[Bob C]

Tom W posted this picture.

Bob

[FrankWest]

My crank gear has a sort of jacket around it only allowing to view the teeth....
I will try to take a photo...
Is the mark sometimes right on the tooth?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Help, Looking for the timing mark on the crank gear....
I found the key, wedge, but not the timing mark?
Maybe my eyes are not so good.....
Cleaned off any grease or oil.

Look for the little dimple on the tooth (in the picture -- top center). It's just to the right of the keyway.
(Photo from Ford Garage, thanks Vince)

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

My crank gear has a sort of jacket around it only allowing to view the teeth....
I will try to take a photo...
Is the mark sometimes right on the tooth?

That is the oil slinger. Take a good light and look to the right of the key like Toms picture shows. It is hard to see but it will be there.

[FrankWest]

Here are two blurry photos..I will try to get a better photyo

[Tom Wesenberg]

I wonder if by "jacket", he means the shaft part of a two piece crankshaft pulley? Either way, you should be able to figure out the tooth just to the right of the keyway is the timing tooth. Remember that the cam gear will turn some as it's installed, so be sure to start it in the right groove.

Yep, just as I suspected, it's the two piece pulley. That oil slinger looks like it's on backwards, but I need a clearer picture.

Also, is that the lighting, or is the crank gear rusty? You sure don't want to start out with rust.

[FrankWest]

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lighting, not rusty

[FrankWest]

Here is a clearer photo....

[Tom Wesenberg]

OK, the slinger is correct. Did you do some cleaning up front, or why is it so free of oil?

[FrankWest]

I have been cleaning it up to be able to see thge timing mark, I though I may have been hidden under a layer of oil. Brushed and sprayed with parts cleaner.

[Bob C]

You need to turn the engine so the key is about at the 11 o'clock position.

Bob

[FrankWest]

at 11 oc

[FrankWest]

This weekend my son will be over. He has a better camera and maybe his better eyesight will spot the timing mark.

[Bill's Auto Works]

Maybe you could remove the pulley if it can be done easily, that way you could look straight at it instead of down onto it.

[FrankWest]

what is that oil slinger? I have never seen that in any of the parts breakdown?
Is the timing mark always on the tooth on the next tooth right of the keyway?

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Bill's Auto Works

Maybe you could remove the pulley if it can be done easily, that way you could look straight at it instead of down onto it.

Hi, Bill.
I have been using a dental mirror to see the teeth. My sons eyes arte sharper than mine perhaps he will see the mark unless it is under the slinger?
Can this slinger be removed easily?

[FrankWest]

Is this slinger just pressed on? Can it be pried off with a screwdriver? Then pressed back on? That would give me a chance to see the timing mark hidden behind it.

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mo...inger-usa.html

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

...Is the timing mark always on the tooth on the next tooth right of the keyway?

Take a closer look at the pictures in post # 21 & 23. They show where the mark is very clearly.

[Bill's Auto Works]

Like Carl said, if you can see the mark in #23 (on the tooth just to the right of the keyway) The oil slinger should not be in the way of seeing the same mark on your gear. As to what the oil slinger is, it "slings" oil up to the cam gear as the crank spins. The slinger is not held on by anything, just stick a screwdriver behind it & gently pry it off.
Sorry, had a brain fart about the slinger coming off! I pictured the crank out of the motor

[George Miller]

It is the tooth on the right side of the key like Tom said. Take some bright paint, any color that will show up good. With a small brush paint that tooth. Then you can see it much better when you put the cam gear on.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Exactly straight up from the key is a valley, and the next tooth to the right of this valley is always the timing tooth. It's easy to see without moving the oil slinger. The slinger is held tight to the gear by the crankshaft pulley.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Exactly straight up from the key is a valley, and the next tooth to the right of this valley is always the timing tooth. It's easy to see without moving the oil slinger. The slinger is held tight to the gear by the crankshaft pulley.

Good to know, if I can't see the notch I can assume that it is on one first tooth right from the key.
There is a 2-3 inch space and shaft between the slinger and the pulley...this is where the rope seals are placed... oil pan below and timing grear cover above

[Bob C]

You can't get the slinger off with the pulley and the pan inplace.

Bob

[Bill's Auto Works]

Originally Posted by Bob C

You can't get the slinger off with the pulley and the pan inplace.

Bob

Sorry, I misspoke

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Bob C

You can't get the slinger off with the pulley and the pan inplace.

Bob

Don't need to remove it just need to slide it forward 1/8 inch so that I can see the timing notch under it.
But If the timing notch is always the first tooth to the right of the woodrift key then I done have to see the notch only the woodrift key to locate the timing notch? Right?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Correct, no need to move the slinger at all. It's the same key that enters the U slot in the pulley. Just follow it straight up and mark the tooth to the right. A drop of white paint will mark it.

BTW, the Dollar Store sells 2 white out pens for a buck. These have a ball point that you push back while pressing down, and out comes fast drying white paint. Perfect for marking the slinger. Just shake the pen before using.

[tbirdtbird]

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the slinger mostly tries to keep oil away from the crank seal, so as not to overload it.
Cam gear gets a boatload of oil from the valve chamber 'waterfall'

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Correct, no need to move the slinger at all. It's the same key that enters the U slot in the pulley. Just follow it straight up and mark the tooth to the right. A drop of white paint will mark it.

BTW, the Dollar Store sells 2 white out pens for a buck. These have a ball point that you push back while pressing down, and out comes fast drying white paint. Perfect for marking the slinger. Just shake the pen before using.

Thanks for you help...You saved the day!

[FrankWest]

My son was over today and took a photo of the crank gear near the woodfrit key and like magic the index mark showed up. Right where you guys said it would be on the next tooth right of the woodrift ket. He is sending me the photo and I will post on here.
His smart phone take better picture than my camera. What a world.
Thanks again for all your important and helpfull comments.

[Tom Wesenberg]

For a phone, that is a good picture. Most of them I see are rather poor quality or out of focus.

[mshmodela]

Wow that mark is small, I think I'd need these:



http://www.walmart.com/ip/INSTEN-20x...Light/34531079

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

Wow that mark is small, I think I'd need these:



http://www.walmart.com/ip/INSTEN-20x...Light/34531079

Funny....I think I should buy these!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

Wow that mark is small, I think I'd need these:



http://www.walmart.com/ip/INSTEN-20x...Light/34531079

The sad thing about these is they are sooooo cheap.
I repair watches and paid 75 dollars for a jewelers loup and it was still cheaply made. I think usable quality glasses like these, that you see surgeons using cost $500.00

[Bill's Auto Works]

I just read the reviews of these glasses. YOu can only use one eye at a time & the item must be 1/4 inch from the lens to be in focus.....JUNK!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Bill's Auto Works

I just read the reviews of these glasses. YOu can only use one eye at a time & the item must be 1/4 inch from the lens to be in focus.....JUNK!

Hi bill,

good usable Optical equipment is very expensive.
Usable jewelers loupes cost approx 65$ dollars. these have decent glass lenses, 10X. If you need 20X they can cost 150$ for decent usable quality.

[FrankWest]

don't worry this is my last post

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I have lined up my Timing gear with the crank gear and hand tightened the nut.

Post #3. As I've mentioned before, for some reason some folks don't read the posts.

[FrankWest]

My new aluminum gear seems tight..does not fit down the last 1/4-1/2 inch.. Do these fit tight or do they need adjusting to fit down on the pins?

[AL in NY]

FrankWest: If you have everything lined up (ie - timing marks and pins) you need to torque the cam nut to 50 foot/lbs which will bring the gear down tight on the cam.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

FrankWest: If you have everything lined up (ie - timing marks and pins) you need to torque the cam nut to 50 foot/lbs which will bring the gear down tight on the cam.

strange thing is that..even thought the cam pins are slightly off center and the tim gear is supposed to go on only one way....It seems to go on both ways which has me worried....Those pins are so slightly off center that it is hard to establish that you are putting the gear on right. I guess an experienced mechanic can feel the difference?

[AL in NY]

The gear should fit tightly on the pins, but don't force it. Line up the gear as best you can and start the tighten the nut on the camshaft. If the gear doesn't start to slid down the pins with only a minimal effort turning the nut, then it's not in the right orientation. Take the gear off and rotate the camshaft about 180 degrees, align the pins and timing marks and try again. The cam gear is a tight fit onto the camshaft, but it should not take the whole 50 ft/lbs of torque to seat the gear on the camshaft.

[larrys40]

Frank,

The gear can Really only fit on the cam one way . The dowel pins are offset on the end of the camshaft as are the dowel holes in the gear. You are really just having line up issues and not seeing properly and getting the feel of installing it
With all due respect I think with all the difficulty and posting you've done over x amount of days to the forum on this that maybe this is one task you may have been better off having a qualified model a mechanic handle for you . I've replace them in as short as 20 minutes start to finish before and certainly within and hour or so under Normal circumstances in running cars.
If you are having visual issues getting a gear on and lining up timing marks you are best served getting someone in to replace it and ensure that it is in correctly and the marks are lined up. Not sure if you have someone in your area but if there is someone on the forum close or in your club area that you use them


Larry

[Patrick L.]

Frank asked a torque value question and reply #3 answered it. So now he sends a nasty personal message. Don't worry , I'll comply with your request.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Frank asked a torque value question and reply #3 answered it. So now he sends a nasty personal message. Don't worry , I'll comply with your request.

My nasty personal message was, Don;t respond to any of my posts,
What is nasty about that!

[George/Maine]

If you have the oil pan off best clean the screen and pan.
Take the pulley off and side the crankshaft gear back.
They put your new gear on, then slide crankshaft gear back on with dots lined up.
The cam gear was made to go on one way only.
Like a clock all points free with oil and also oil dist shaft.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

If you have the oil pan off best clean the screen and pan.
Take the pulley off and side the crankshaft gear back.
They put your new gear on, then slide crankshaft gear back on with dots lined up.
The cam gear was made to go on one way only.
Like a clock all points free with oil and also oil dist shaft.

thanks..George

[Big hammer]

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We one back Frank! :-)

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

We one back Frank! :-)

Thanks...
Ahh what the heck..I'm 67 years old and I need you guys...
I can take a few insults.. after all my mother in law lived to be 96!

[FrankWest]

I am using my old defective timing wheel to set the stage for fitting my new timing wheel. The old wheel pins and center shaft fit very tight....So I should not expect anything different from the new timing wheel.

[mshmodela]

Frank, Thanks for hanging in there, look forward to know your new gear finally works out.. Experience I don't have.... many thanks

[Patrick L.]

100+#
Translation: At least 100 lb/ft of torque.
The majority of us know that though.

He asked for a torque value and he got an answer. He'll never get another from me.

[colin1928]

The cam gear should a firm fit to the cam shaft
seat the gear on the shaft with a soft mallet I use a copper mallet
I never use the cam nut to seat the gear

[Patrick L.]

I want to thank everyone for the personal messages. Thanks, you're right.

[FrankWest]

[QUOTE=forever4;1014809]Why are you telling people not to reply to your posts? if your replies are not helpful then don't respond. I do not come on here to be insulted. I come on here for the enjoyment of working on my favorite car. If you can't say something helpful then don't respond unless you enjoy putting people down that come here to learn about fixing their dream car.

I want to thank all the great people that sent me personnel messages of encouragement and asked me not to leave the board because of nasties that seem to on every internet message board.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by colin1928

The cam gear should a firm fit to the cam shaft
seat the gear on the shaft with a soft mallet I use a copper mallet
I never use the cam nut to seat the gear

Thanks

Because this is the first time I have replaced a cam gear I wasn't sure how tight it should fit on the pins and shaft. Now I am measuring the diameter if the pins and shaft and holes in the new timing gear to make sure they are will fit.

[George/Maine]

Frank I think you will find it easier to remove the lower wheel so you only have to deal with the new wheel . Did you only work on electron watch's.

[FrankWest]

Finally got the timing gear on and torqued down properly.
Used a rag with no problem...Thanks for the insights.
preparing the timing gear cover for installation.
One question On the Thrust Spring
Les Andrews, in his book Model A mechanic s Handbook, say
Check the thrust spring for correct compression tension (35-38lbs)
How do I do that? Some kind of a reverse fish scale? I could probably would out a scale of some sort with weights, but I am not on a desert island..
Do people just replace the old spring? Rather not replace something original for something made in India.
Should I just buy a new spring...

[Big hammer]

You could use bath room scale, push down you should see 35# before spring compresses :-)

[700rpm]

The photo in post #48 looks like the crank gear is pretty rough. If that is the case, I would suggest that it be replaced also. It is probably what caused your fiber gear to fail, if in fact it is rusty or pitted.

[mshmodela]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Finally got the timing gear on and torqued down properly.
Used a rag with no problem...Thanks for the insights.
preparing the timing gear cover for installation.
One question On the Thrust Spring
Les Andrews, in his book Model A mechanic s Handbook, say
Check the thrust spring for correct compression tension (35-38lbs)
How do I do that? Some kind of a reverse fish scale? I could probably would out a scale of some sort with weights, but I am not on a desert island..
Do people just replace the old spring? Rather not replace something original for something made in India.
Should I just buy a new spring...

AWESOME news Frank... Thank for sticking in there and sharing.. I've never done what you've done. With your steadfastness I know a little more... Thank you!

[FrankWest]

Here is a better photo of the cam gear and tim gear not indexing. Note the tiny indexing notch on the cam gear. Does this Cam gear really look like it needs replacing.
I thought my Original Timing gear just dried out and grew brittle after sitting in a garaga in the Ca desert for 20 years!

[Tom Wesenberg]

It's an upside down picture, but it does seem to match the Model A timing picture I've posted.

[Charles Coe]

It's hard to tell from Frank's picture but it looks to me like it is off one tooth.

[Y-Blockhead]

Franks picture rotated. I'm interested also. Is it timed correctly?

[Bob C]

looks like the timing gear dimple lines up with the crank gear tooth
to the right of the keyway like Tom's picture.

Bob

[Purdy Swoft]

The picture is very poor. A better view of the keyway slot in the slinger would help . It does appear that it could be off one tooth. If this is truly the case it will have a bad effect on how the engine runs .

[FrankWest]

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Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

The picture is very poor. A better view of the keyway slot in the slinger would help . It does appear that it could be off one tooth. If this is truly the case it will have a bad effect on how the engine runs .

Look at the marked photo.. Yellow highlights index marks on both gears

[FrankWest]

Better closeup

[FrankWest]

You guys are scaring me. But better to know now before I close it up.
Show I just order a new thrust plunger spring, because I am not able to measure ther tension in my old spring.

[FrankWest]

Here is another picture before I cleaned up the particles on the cam gear sell yellow arrows

[700rpm]

OK, you're timed properly if the marks in the photo are showing the alignment and timing marks. A new spring is cheap insurance. Go for it. If your crank gear is pitted, as I mentioned before, I think the only adverse effect will be a little noisier engine; it's unlikely it will do any serious damage to the aluminum gear.

[Mitch//pa]

yes put in a new spring and plunger.... they are made in the usa... grease the plunger before assembly

[OL JENNY]

I just installed Dan's aluminum gear, like Frank I did not want to pull my engine to do the matched set. My engine is noisier, but I have only run the engine not driven the car since we have 12" of snow. Dan advised me it would make more noise without being matched, and to clamp the gear and not stress the teeth when tightening. I cut pieces of 1" X 1/8 steel bar and was able to clamp the gear and torque the modern nut to the full torque.

[OL JENNY]

Got it lined up correct

[Purdy Swoft]

I still can't be sure by the pictures. Take a close look at Toms picture in post # 33. Notice the relation with the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the key that holds the crank gear. You will mostly have to judge by the keyway slot in the oil slinger on your crankshaft because the oil slinger mostly covers the timing mark on the crankshaft gear. Toms picture clearly shows the timing mark on the drivers side of the key. This is what you will have to go by. If you are on the passengers side of the keyway, you will be one tooth off. You are on your own and you will have to make the desision of whether you are on the right side of the keyway. This is the simplest way that I can say it. If it is off one tootrh , it will still run but won't have full power .

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by OL JENNY

Got it lined up correct

WARNING WARNING WARNING

The first thing I noticed in your picture is the worn notch in the oil slinger, and this can only be caused by the slinger not being held tightly in position by the crank pulley. Your picture shows the crank pulley notch is NOT lined up with the keyway. You need to rotate the pulley as you push back until you feel the key engage the pulley notch, then crank it into place by the front bolt/start ratchet.

You must fix this before you do anything else.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by OL JENNY

I just installed Dan's aluminum gear, like Frank I did not want to pull my engine to do the matched set. My engine is noisier, but I have only run the engine not driven the car since we have 12" of snow. Dan advised me it would make more noise without being matched, and to clamp the gear and not stress the teeth when tightening. I cut pieces of 1" X 1/8 steel bar and was able to clamp the gear and torque the modern nut to the full torque.

Dave's wife held the crank while he torqued the cam nut to 100 Ft Lbs. (It's easy, it's called gear reduction.)
Bill W.

[earbleeder]

This is a very informative thread. Not to change the subject too much,but. How can you take a correct measurement of the cam to crank centerline spacing? I'm going to order a set of dans gears for an engine thats apart ( crank is in but not cam) and want to make sure I don't need the oversized cam gear. The engine is on a stand and I have a cam to put in to get a measurement. any tricks?
Steve

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

yes put in a new spring and plunger.... they are made in the usa... grease the plunger before assembly

Thanks...will do!

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by earbleeder

This is a very informative thread. Not to change the subject too much,but. How can you take a correct measurement of the cam to crank centerline spacing? I'm going to order a set of dans gears for an engine thats apart ( crank is in but not cam) and want to make sure I don't need the oversized cam gear. The engine is on a stand and I have a cam to put in to get a measurement. any tricks?
Steve

Look at Vince's site. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/camcrankposition.htm

Bob

[earbleeder]

I understand what the measurements are supposed to be but the problem is how to get an accurate measurement. I measured the crank diameter and the cam flange diameter where I could get venier calipers in a straight line as possible. Divided those diameters in half and subtracted from the total out to out from the crank to cam flange. I got 4.157 but was wondering if there was a more accurate way of doing it. It seems right. maybe I'm overthinking it. I don't want to get a gear set that doesn't fit right (too tight). I guess this should be OK. What do you guys think?

[tbirdtbird]

we are up to 5000+ views!!!!!

I think that number exceeds the number of Model As still on the road