Restarting a model A after 64 years of sitting.

[M. Philips]

So I have bought a 1930 model A tudor that never has been restored and
last time ran in the 50's

The model A spend most if it's time in Paris France but since a few years she is here in Belgium. Because it is the "european" model A it has the small bore 2.2 engine.

She is all original and almost 100% complete, now the plan is not to restore the car only restore the mechanical part of it.

I went over the engine and it still has really good compression and seems to be that there is "fresh" oil in it (only checked the dip stick).

What I was planning to do was

1. Getting the gastank out and restoring it
2. New fuel line
3. Rebuilding the carb
4. New distributor, sparkplugs and wires, coil, battery
5. New alternator
6. Leakless waterpump
7. Checking carterpan for slutch
8. Checking the head
9. New oil
10. Redoing the wiring

Is there something else I mist?

This will be the first pre war and american car that I will work on, tips?

Below are a couple of pictures of the model A

[Y-Blockhead]

Neat car. How's the interior? Love the 'Spark Plug Wires'...

[M. Philips]

What is wrong with the wires? ^^
The interior is what you would aspect for a car that is sitting for such a long time.
Driver seat is ripped and back seat is missing, the part where you sit on anyweighs

[juke joint johnny]

Very Nice Good Luck with it !!!!
What kind of Carb is that on there?
Make sure you clean out the oil pan or sump before you run the engine.

John Cochran

[NCDave]

That looks like a great car! I have a 30 Tudor, as well, so am very interested in your project. From what is said on this forum by experienced people, be sure to check your fan for cracks before running the car.
Good luck,
David in North Carolina

[BlueSunoco]

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That is a very nice Model A Ford! Congratulations!!

Imagine the stories that car could tell!

[45GPW]

Originally Posted by juke joint johnny

What kind of Carb is that on there?

Looks like a Tillotson to me.

Originally Posted by M. Philips

What is wrong with the wires? ^^

Original Model A used copper strips instead of modern insulated wire.

Like this:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mo...-b-engine.html

Nice car. Best wishes on getting it running again.

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by NCDave

be sure to check your fan for cracks before running the car.

Allready checked and is in good condition

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Setting that long, chances are it wasn't turned over much. In a case like if it was exposed to any kind of sweating, all the oil grooves in the babbitt would have rust in them.

If it does, and you start it with out looking you will do much damage the the babbitt.

It will all so have rust holes in the crank that are sharp and will eat babbitt.

Herm.

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by 45GPW

Looks like a Tillotson to me.

Thoughed they all had Zenith carb's, what will be the difference between the 2?

[1930artdeco]

Welcome! Drain all of the fluids and refill. There is no real need to pull the head unless the gasket is shot and sounds like it isn't. Run some water through the radiator a few times to clean the rust out. As for the tank, run a bunch of carb cleaner through it to dislodge and remove the rust. Anything that evaporate and does not leave a residue. You may want to even pull the valve cover off and clean the sludge out of the galley-if there is any.

Mike

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting

Setting that long, chances are it wasn't turned over much. In a case like if it was exposed to any kind of sweating, all the oil grooves in the babbitt would have rust in them.

If it does, and you start it with out looking you will do much damage the the babbitt.

It will all so have rust holes in the crank that are sharp and will eat babbitt.

Herm.

Would it be possible to see signs if the oil grooves are clogged when I take the carter pan of?

[mshmodela]

If it's original, keep it that way... clean it up a bit leave it as is....

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Welcome! Drain all of the fluids and refill. There is no real need to pull the head unless the gasket is shot and sounds like it isn't. Run some water through the radiator a few times to clean the rust out. As for the tank, run a bunch of carb cleaner through it to dislodge and remove the rust. Anything that evaporate and does not leave a residue. You may want to even pull the valve cover off and clean the sludge out of the galley-if there is any.

Mike

Thank you, I forgot to mention to let water go through the radiator.
Sow I don't necessarily have to professionaly let the gastank cleaned out?
I will try to put carbcleaner down there and see what is does. thnx

[M. Philips]

That is the plan, here in Europe it is rare to find an all original non restored model a, if not hardly impossible. One happy dude right here!!
Wish it had the big bore though.. think 20hp will be a pit to few for the weight of the car.

[1930artdeco]

Pour some in and slosh it around, drain, repeat. This may take a few runs and you may need to remove it to do this depending on the amount of rust. Brent may chime in here about the tank, listen to him he knows it all.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Do they check the bore and stroke when you register it? How would they know if you bored it to stock Model A specs?

Mike

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by M. Philips

Would it be possible to see signs if the oil grooves are clogged when I take the carter pan of?

Yes, if youy remove the bearing caps to inspect. Also look at the cam lobes for signs of rust, while the oil pan is off.

The engine will look more original if you buy the choke rod, correct carb, coil wire, and spark plug straps.

[M. Philips]

Oke thanks Mike, where can I find Brent?

[1930artdeco]

He goes by 'Brent in ten-uh-c' on here. You can shoo him a private message and see what he says.

Mike

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Do they check the bore and stroke when you register it? How would they know if you bored it to stock Model A specs?

Mike

Normally you can't bore a 2.2 to 3.2 ore less, because the cilinder wall isn't thick enough. So I have heard

[1930artdeco]

Oh, I thought it was the same block just bored differently.

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Yes, if youy remove the bearing caps to inspect. Also look at the cam lobes for signs of rust, while the oil pan is off.

The engine will look more original if you buy the choke rod, correct carb, coil wire, and spark plug straps.

Thanks Tom, I will keep that in mind.
So the Zenith carb is the original carb also for the smaller engines?

[M. Philips]

No no you can see it at the exterior cilinder walls that they are smaller, again so I have been told.

[Brentwood Bob]

Stored car in belgium

If you do these things one at a time you can better control the outcome. I would concentrate on cleaning it up, I would find an expert thru a model a club to help you thru this. I would omit 5 and 6 for now.
pull pan and valve chamber cover and clean the oil galley, and the pan. Why was the car stored? might be a mechanical issue lurking.
use a known good distributor and known good zenith carburator to get it running.
look at the cooling system. see our recent discussions about cleaning the block, and radiator.
replace the wire harness if it is bad, I would look at this before I put power(hook up a new battery) to the car.
There are many things that can go wrong and you want to stiffle the urge to jump in and do a bunch of things all at once.
I have followed up after these guys and usually we went back to reinstalling the original stuff and proceed in a logical manner to work thru the condition of the car and be in control of the outcome.
Be careful disturbing the head, broken studs result.
Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by M. Philips

Thanks Tom, I will keep that in mind.
So the Zenith carb is the original carb also for the smaller engines?

Good question. I have never worked on the small engine and don't know what they used for the carb.

[Bob C]

This link has some info on the small engine.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106566

Bob

[juke joint johnny]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Do they check the bore and stroke when you register it? How would they know if you bored it to stock Model A specs?

Mike

Mike it's a different block casting You can't bore it out to 3 7/8"
The smallbore engine used a normal Zenith carb but with smaller jets and venturi.

John Cochran

[M. Philips]

Hey Bob

The guy I bought the car from also has a 1928 5 window coupe, and he just lives the village next to mine. So I c

[M. Philips]

Hey Bob

The guy I bought the car from also has a 1928 5 window coupe, and he just lives the village next to mine. So I can always go to him for information. But I am also going to check the model a club here in Belgium.
I am just 23 years of age but I have realized in previous projects to always get your focus on one thing at the time. And never to rush into a solution when you are working on older car's ore motorcycles. But she will test my abilities that I am certain of.

[tbirdtbird]

LOve the car, love the patina!! Other than getting the mechanicals straightened out to me the car is worth more unrestored...it is in such good shape. They are original only once. I had a '28 Chevy Coupe all original 70K miles, loved it.

Good luck! Take it slow. Def. drop the pan, it will be full of crud, also the valve cover as mentioned. Then follow the advice already given above. Do not be in a big hurry to turn that crank just yet

[Tudortomnz]

That is a rare Model A & you should endeavour to find out all about French Assembled ones. You do not want to throw an item away that may be original to the car.
The Tudor should have been produced at Trafford Park plant in Britain & exported LHD to Europe.They were assembled & had French content added [ lights etc] at Asnieres near Paris. Check on the firewall data plate, it should confirm this. All the local items & assembly [ required by Govt's in Europe] added to the final cost & Fords became more expensive than the local made small cars which was the whole point of the exercise.
I notice it has a boss on the intake manifold for the RHD pivot arm for the distributor spark control ; I have never seen that on a LHD before; it must be because of English RHD manufacture.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I hope it has the 4:44 to 1 rear end gears, it'll need them! They were great drag racing gears. They were used in V-8 60's & late '30's & early '40's factory 4 cylinder pickups. Our shop truck at the wrecking yard was a PEE Green '40 4 cylinder, perfect truck, after I restored the damage from an engine gas fire.
Bill W.

[Brother Hesekiel]

Fantastic car. When you have it sorted out and are bored, post a photo of the left headlight in detail. I'd love to see the French setup.

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by Tudortomnz

you should endeavour to find out all about French Assembled ones.

Where should I find more information about the french assembled ones?

[1930artdeco]

There was an article in the Restorer this year about French Model A's. Or it was here on the Barn.

Mike

[swo4rd]

Clean it up using conservation materials...clean it out with a vacuum cleaner, get the mechanical working and move the dogs and the kids in and get on with life.
Swoff