59 AB engine rebuild

[flatheadmurre]

That one bolts through the banjo fitting and has 2 holes.
If you cant find one from the nos dealers a JIC hydraulic connector has the right threads and get you up and running until you find the correct part.

[flatheadmurre]

What you need to make your own is a jic bulkhead connector.
They come in steel stainless and aluminum.
Put in a lathe cut the long end to needed lenght and drill 2 holes.
Turn down the short end to get a pipe end to connect the wiper hose.

[Macdozer]

What are some other ways people have used to hook up the vacuum line for the distributor. . ?


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[Macdozer]

I have read that some drill a hole in the intake manifold and tap it then run tha vaccuum line down to the distributor.
Just looking at my options as I can't seem to find the right fitting for the stock vacuum line and the vacuum line for the windshield wiper.

[Macdozer]

Still haven't figured out what I will do about the vacuum line fitting yet.
But good news is I got the engine back together and test started it. It started right up and sounds good .

But well it was running I had gas pouring out of where the shaft for the accelerator pump goes into the carb.
I have rebuild the carb and am using a new fuel pump. I am thinking that the fuel pressure might be to high on the pump causing the fuel leak.
I am using a new Airtex pump model 571 mechanical fuel pump. Could this be my problem or am I over looking something else?


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[Macdozer]

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Also wanted to add I am using a stromberg 97 carb. If fuel pressure is my issue is there a way to adjust the fuel pressure on the mechanical pump?

[Bluebell]

Macd. the delivery pressure is entirely dictated by the delivery spring, under the diaphragm.

[Macdozer]

I am still trying to figure out if my problem is fuel pump related or if is something in the carb. Would to much fuel pressure cause gas to come out the top of the carb? Around the accelerator pump rod .

Has anyone else used these Airtex fuel pumps.?

[CSArno]

I've seen on here that some of the carb rebuild kits have a bad accelerator pump seal. Not sure which ones, just recall seeing it.

[Mart]

Mac, I had too high fuel pressure, and stripped the spring out of an old pump. I fitted that in the newer pump I was using and the pressure was now ok. An older, weaker spring will not overpower the carb needle valve.

Mart.

[frenchy dehoux]

Good thread I am following this one.

Frenchy

[Macdozer]

I finally replaced the accelerator pump in the carb and started the engine, no more fuel leak. Which is good.
But while running if I gave it gas it would almost stall. I did notice that well running the fuel in the bowl was sucking air. It would be idle just fine. I only ran it for about 20 seconds as I don't have any coolant hooked up.
I wondering what some recommendations might be because now that I know it will run and I still have all the wiring to do in the car should I get it running right or should I go head and install the engine in the car then proceed from there?

[flatjack9]

If you have the clear glass bowl on the fuel pump, you probably need a new gasket - and you want a cork one, not neoprene.

[Macdozer]

I will have to find a cork gasket to use. Right now I will have to focus on wiring. But it feels good to hear it run.

[Macdozer]

Still trying to figure out how I am going to hook up the vacuum for the distributor. I haven't looked into a jic hydraulic connector because I don't have a lathe. Does any one have the proper fitting for the vac line that allows the hook up for the windshield wiper and the line for the distributor?

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Mac - can't help you on the vacuum fitting . . . not really sure what your issue is? Is it that you don't have a vacuum port/fitting in the manifold? Or, that you need a t-fitting?

On the engine, now that you have it running - don't run it without load (I know the temptation is there). Wait until you have the rest of the car/truck sorted out and then break it in by putting it under load --> taking off from a start and giving it full throttle up to cruising speed. Do this a few times - to make sure the rings correctly wear/seat into the bore. If you keep idling it and running it without load, you may glaze over the bores and the rings may never correctly wear/seat in.

Great news that you've got a running flathead!

B&S

[flatheadmurre]

I think this is what he needs.

[Macdozer]

Yes flathead murre that is what I am looking for.
Or if anyone has an idea of how I can make my own.

[JSeery]

I have read this thread several times before and was always confused by the vacuum fitting question. Why is it difficult to find a vacuum fitting? What is the issue, the threads matching? I have several draws of fittings I have taken off of cars over the years, single ports, dual ports, multiple ports, they come in about any configuration you could dream of. Should be able to get what you are looking for anywhere. Are you trying to match a specific style? Would help if you could explain why you are having a problem with this, what is the thread pattern you need to match in the manifold?

[flatheadmurre]

Should be a 7/16-20 so a bolt for a banjofitting at your local hydraulic store would do the trick then drill and solder a pipe into the head of the bolt.
Or as JSeery wrote shouldnt be to hard to find a used one.