Model A Head Bolt Tightening

[Tom F OHIO]

Is there a site anywhere that shows the tightening sequence on the
head bolts and also the pounds needed. I would like to print it and then
laminate it.

Thanks,
Tom....

[msmaron]

just look in Les Andrews book, you can print it from there

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Tom, following this type chart really is NOT that critical if you start with the center stud and tighten them in a radial outward pattern. Just work up the torque in increments until you get to 55 lbs, ....but remember we often try to make stuff like this WAY more difficult than it really is.


.

[Clem Smith]

Should head bolts be tightened with motor warm or cold?
Motor has 10K.

[700rpm]

I always tighten mine with a warm engine. Then I drive it about 50 miles and tighten again. Then I drive it another 200 miles and tighten again if necessary. About 55 lbs., but you can feel when they're about right if you don't have a torque wrench. Don't forget to check the manifold nuts if you've had the manifolds off. Same drill, starting inside and working out, though I find about 50 lbs is adequate.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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Originally Posted by Clem Smith

Should head bolts be tightened with motor warm or cold?
Motor has 10K.

I trust you are using studs & nuts and not head bolts like a Model T used.

Tighten the oiled nuts cold and then run the engine to operating temps. Allow the engine to cool to room temperature and the start with the center stud again and loosen the nut ¼ - ½ turn, and retorque to 55 lbs. Then move to the next stud and repeat the process in a radial pattern until all nuts have been torqued. After completing the entire process, start engine again and allow to reach operating temps. and then allow to cool to room temps again. Check the torque it takes to remove the nut off of the center stud. Keep repeating this entire process above until it take 55 lbs to loosen each nut. At that point, you know the gasket has been completely compressed.


/

[700rpm]

Thanks Brent. I should have been clearer in my explanation. Of course I tighten the nuts cold in my initial assembly; then I run it till it's warm and retighten and so on. I've been playing with these things for 50 years, and I've never blown a head gasket; but I've never used the "loosen the nut ¼ - ½ turn, and retorque to 55 lbs" method either; That sounds like a good idea, and I'll do that in the future.

[Richard/Ca]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

I trust you are using studs & nuts and not head bolts like a Model T used.

Tighten the oiled nuts cold and then run the engine to operating temps. Allow the engine to cool to room temperature and the start with the center stud again and loosen the nut ¼ - ½ turn, and retorque to 55 lbs. Then move to the next stud and repeat the process in a radial pattern until all nuts have been torqued. After completing the entire process, start engine again and allow to reach operating temps. and then allow to cool to room temps again. (Check the torque it takes to remove the nut off of the center stud. Keep repeating this entire process above until it take 55 lbs to loosen each nut.) At that point, you know the gasket has been completely compressed.


/

OK! I Going to ask a dumb question. How does one check the torque it take to remove a nut or bolt what ever the case maybe ? I am saving your post in my files because I think you have done enough of these to qualify you post. Thanks !

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Remember you are only loosening one nut at a time. Use your torque wrench to remove the nut, and with the dial set to click at 55 pounds of torque. If you initially torqued the nut to 55 pounds and have run the engine up to operating temps, allow it to cool to room temperature before you check anything. When the engine is at room temp., if the nut(s) loosens before before the wrench clicks at the 55 lbs, then you know the nut has lost its tension. My personal belief is that if you re-check the torque while the engine is hot, you will likely get a false reading on the torque because things (head, nut, stud, gasket, etc.) have all expanded at a different rate.

I am not necessarily saying my method is the only way, and one also needs to remember that to my knowledge, torque specs. had not even been invented when the head nuts were initially installed at the factory. Then factor in that some people are using modern gaskets that do not need to be re-torqued and differing opinions are rampant!


.

[HoarseWhisperer]

Printable Sequence Chart:

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/up...GUIDE-8742.pdf

Torque instructions that come with Snyder's Heads:

1. Warm engine up slowly for 15-20 minutes.
2. Let engine cool ovenight, or until stone cold (6 hours minumum).
3. Retorque cylinder head to 55 foor pounds using correct torqueing sequence.
4. Repeat after 500 miles of operation.

"NOTE: Engine block must be COLD before retorquing."

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by HoarseWhisperer

"NOTE: Engine block must be COLD before retorquing."

Why would the service bulletins from Ford say hot engine?

[1931 flamingo]

I believe Mr. Brumfield has posted on here how to rorque, retorque and retorque again if necessary. I believe I would follow HIS advice. JMO
Paul in CT

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by HoarseWhisperer

Printable Sequence Chart:

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/up...GUIDE-8742.pdf

Torque instructions that come with Snyder's Heads:

1. Warm engine up slowly for 15-20 minutes.
2. Let engine cool ovenight, or until stone cold (6 hours minumum).
3. Retorque cylinder head to 55 foor pounds using correct torqueing sequence.
4. Repeat after 500 miles of operation.

"NOTE: Engine block must be COLD before retorquing."

Was this not the single answer to the question???

[Franchise_24]

Well, this is a chart that I have. I wanted to upload it, but there are too many limitations, so I have a link here you can click so if you want to print the high quality scan you can.

Basically it gives you the sequence of the bolts and they are numbered.

5 steps:

1) One-third of full torque (17 foot pounds)

2) Two-thirds of full torque (34 foot pounds)

3) Full torque (50 foot pounds)

4) Full torque in reverse sequence (got a little cut off on the scan)

5) Full torque after engine warm-up

Hope this helps.

Here is the link:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~franzenf...ad_diagram.bmp

[Tom F OHIO]

Thanks to the folks who sent the downloadable tightening sequence. When your not working on engines all the time, this sort of thing sure comes in handy. Maybe someday I to can do it without.

[HoarseWhisperer]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Why would the service bulletins from Ford say hot engine?

I believe possible explanations were given when you previously mentioned the service bulletins back in June in the following thread link:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5056

[norway]

thanks this helped me a lot