painting engine

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Whoa Skeezixx ..............I got sidetracked when looking at your avatar and just noticed.........those aren't model A wheels in your picture.

Where in WI was Precision Machine Works?

I would paint the engine with a brush and replace the head nuts one at a time.
G-96 gun blueing does a nice job on the 3X plugs and other raven parts.

While my mechanic is primarily a Ford gal she is notoriously fickle. I caught her under a Packard one time.

Precision Engine & Mach
3425 Brooks Drive
Sun Prairie, WI. 53590
608- 837-7174

When I Googled the address, the location is now a mini storage warehouse. The Ph # is now a private number.

The PO claims that when he decided to start the project he called Ford for advice and they recommended Precision for his engine rebuild at that time.

Gun bluing sounds like a very good idea. Thanks Tom.

[Skeezixx]

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Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

Sleezixx, you said in your first post you bought new head nuts and washers, there are no washers used under the head nuts. Did I read that right?

Yep. If I am wrong I hope somebody corrects me soon.

[Ed Saniewski]

I have never seen them before. I just checked the Brattons catalog and could not find them listed in the engine parts section. I did find them listed in the Snyder catalog, they are for an aluminum head. Is yours cast iron or aluminum?

[Purdy Swoft]

Ed is correct. the washers are for use with an aluminum head. I wouldn't use them with a cast iron head. Washers under the head nuts would effect the height that the studs rise above the nuts. The picture looks like they are already kinda low, except for the ignition stud.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Skeezix,
Gregg screwed up & put the longer stud in the WRONG hole, I'll disguise it with a CHROME ACORN COVER! You think the JUDGES might miss it??
I have 2 creepers & yo' "MECHANIC" is welcome to come doodle with me, under my spiffy, BLACK, DODGE-KADOTA, with a BLACK tarp & wide BLACKWALL tires. The KADOTA is kinda' tall & we won't even have to jack it up! I'm blessed to be kinda' skinny too & my jackstands are collecting cobwebs! They still look like NOS-HARBOR FREIGHT! Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Skeezix,
Gregg screwed up & put the longer stud in the WRONG hole, I'll disguise it with a CHROME ACORN COVER! You think the JUDGES might miss it??
I have 2 creepers & yo' "MECHANIC" is welcome to come doodle with me, under my spiffy, BLACK, DODGE-KADOTA, with a BLACK tarp & wide BLACKWALL tires. The KADOTA is kinda' tall & we won't even have to jack it up! I'm blessed to be kinda' skinny too & my jackstands are collecting cobwebs! They still look like NOS-HARBOR FREIGHT! Bill W.

Speaking of creepers, Harbor Freight has a coupon special on their 6 wheel molded low rider creeper for only $20. I've been using my old wood one from the 60's, until I picked up this new one the other day. Just in time to work on my Model A. I'm going to pull the pan and check the bearings, and my head gasket just started leaking, so that'll get changed too.

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

I have never seen them before. I just checked the Brattons catalog and could not find them listed in the engine parts section. I did find them listed in the Snyder catalog, they are for an aluminum head. Is yours cast iron or aluminum?

Thanks for the heads up. My head is cast iron. So, you're telling me to just install the nuts without washers at all?

It's kinda funny, the nuts themselves aren't too bad it's the washers under them that got rusty. At any rate ....they gotta go.

[Domino]

I agree also. A brush painted engine can look mighty fine - I know.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

...G-96 gun blueing does a nice job on the 3X plugs and other raven parts.

Do you use the paste or liquid? Do you clean the rust first, & if so what works best?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Do you use the paste or liquid? Do you clean the rust first, & if so what works best?

I use the liquid and kept rubbing it in for about 3 minutes to 5 minutes. I sanded my gun barrel with my 1/4 sheet palm sander, then warmed the barrel with my heat gun to about 125*. This is about the same as a tool that lays in the hot sun. After rubbing in the G-96 I rinsed it with hot water and dried it with a towel, then rubbed it with ATF.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Speaking of creepers, Harbor Freight has a coupon special on their 6 wheel molded low rider creeper for only $20. I've been using my old wood one from the 60's, until I picked up this new one the other day. Just in time to work on my Model A. I'm going to pull the pan and check the bearings, and my head gasket just started leaking, so that'll get changed too.

tom hold onto the old wood one as you might find you get a flat in no time. it happened to me...

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I use the liquid and kept rubbing it in for about 3 minutes to 5 minutes. I sanded my gun barrel with my 1/4 sheet palm sander, then warmed the barrel with my heat gun to about 125*. This is about the same as a tool that lays in the hot sun. After rubbing in the G-96 I rinsed it with hot water and dried it with a towel, then rubbed it with ATF.

Thanks Tom, I can't keep my spark plugs from rusting, hope this helps.

[Skeezixx]

All prepped and ready for painting tomorrow. I'll post pics.

I have one other question first. When I removed the manifolds I noticed no gland rings.

Andrews says just use the copper gaskets and no rings. I have a one piece gasket not the copper ones. Is it going to leak?

[Logan]

I would suggest masking up the fenders, firewall, and cowl better. You may not need to but better safe than sorry. You could also claybar the paint with soap and water after you paint the motor to remove any over spray. Steel wool will clean over spray off glass. But if you're brush painting, ignore all that I have said. Good luck!

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Logan

I would suggest masking up the fenders, firewall, and cowl better. You may not need to but better safe than sorry. You could also claybar the paint with soap and water after you paint the motor to remove any over spray. Steel wool will clean over spray off glass. But if you're brush painting, ignore all that I have said. Good luck!

Yeah, I agree. I just got pooped out. I intend to mask the firewall higher and spread out my fender covers. Also tape up the threads on the studs. I decided against the brush since I had removed everything (cept the stubborn oil breather). I had both so it seemed simpler to just go ahead and spray it.

[Skeezixx]

As per Buster T's request here are the before and after pics.

[gweilbaker]

Does it go faster now? Looks good.

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by gweilbaker

Does it go faster now? Looks good.

No but the new "Toyota" fan forces hot air through all the holes in my firewall at a much greater volume.