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Old 10-21-2011, 01:00 PM   #1
ora masters
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Smile brakes 48 ford

help ford barners put new wheel cylinders on all 4 bled all 4 have to pump 3 or 4 times for brakes take foot of next pedel goes all the way to floor no brakes till you pump 3 or 4 times no air in master cylinder we gave up after repeating this 3 times hope some one can help ORA
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:16 PM   #2
Barry-ct
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Default Re: brakes 48 ford

Master been replaced? Sounds like the master is bypassing internally .If you've gone this far, I'd replace or rebuild.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:16 PM   #3
Old Henry
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Default Re: brakes 48 ford

Have you adjusted the brakes shoes up tight to the drums? You'll always have to pump the shoes up against the drums if you haven't. If you have, then I would also suspect the master cylinder except that, if it's bad, the pedel would fade to the floor while holding the brake on. If it doesn't do that then it's got to be the shoes needing adjustment. Here's how in case you don't know. Keep in mind that you are turning a cam that takes very little movement to adjust.

Keep us informed of your progress.
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Last edited by Old Henry; 10-21-2011 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:58 PM   #4
V8 Bob
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Default Re: brakes 48 ford

Quote:
Originally Posted by ora masters View Post
help ford barners put new wheel cylinders on all 4 bled all 4 have to pump 3 or 4 times for brakes take foot of next pedel goes all the way to floor no brakes till you pump 3 or 4 times no air in master cylinder we gave up after repeating this 3 times hope some one can help ORA

The technique when manual bleeding can sometimes be the problem. You want to slowly and fully stroke (not pump) the pedal while bleeding each cylinder. It's best to use a 3' or so length of Tygon tubing pushed over the bleeder, coiled up slightly higher than the cylinder, and then empting into a container. This allows a good visual of the flow of fluid and air coming out of the bleeder. The bleeder should only be opened enough to have a slow steady flow, and then shut when the pedal bottoms out. (This requires good communication between the bleeder and pedal pusher )

When some pressure can be developed, do a leak check by applying high pedal force. If the pedal remains solid and does not move to the floor, and there are NO leaks or weeps, repeat the bleeding process two or three more times per wheel until only clear fluid comes out of each bleeder. Make sure to check the master fluid level often.

A good bleed will not overcome shoes that are shot or out of adjustment, so make sure the brakes are within spec before attempting to bleed the system.
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:56 AM   #5
ora masters
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Smile Re: brakes 48 ford

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Originally Posted by Old Henry View Post
Have you adjusted the brakes shoes up tight to the drums? You'll always have to pump the shoes up against the drums if you haven't. If you have, then I would also suspect the master cylinder except that, if it's bad, the pedel would fade to the floor while holding the brake on. If it doesn't do that then it's got to be the shoes needing adjustment. Here's how in case you don't know. Keep in mind that you are turning a cam that takes very little movement to adjust.

Keep us informed of your progress.
old henry thanks a lot i had forgot to adjust brakes i have brakes now with out pumping thanks again ORA
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:58 AM   #6
ora masters
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Smile Re: brakes 48 ford

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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Bob View Post
The technique when manual bleeding can sometimes be the problem. You want to slowly and fully stroke (not pump) the pedal while bleeding each cylinder. It's best to use a 3' or so length of Tygon tubing pushed over the bleeder, coiled up slightly higher than the cylinder, and then empting into a container. This allows a good visual of the flow of fluid and air coming out of the bleeder. The bleeder should only be opened enough to have a slow steady flow, and then shut when the pedal bottoms out. (This requires good communication between the bleeder and pedal pusher )

When some pressure can be developed, do a leak check by applying high pedal force. If the pedal remains solid and does not move to the floor, and there are NO leaks or weeps, repeat the bleeding process two or three more times per wheel until only clear fluid comes out of each bleeder. Make sure to check the master fluid level often.

A good bleed will not overcome shoes that are shot or out of adjustment, so make sure the brakes are within spec before attempting to bleed the system.
thanks V8 BOB
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