New engine does GREAT, but

[Christoph]

New engine does a superb job

Running nice and smooth and sounds GREAT
(you wont believe its in its break-in-phase...).

Once i start driving, sadly, there is some noise
from rear-engine/gearbox/clutch area.

Especially once going off the throttle.

No way to do real-testing as heavy rains around
Drove it for 15 Minutes up to now.

When changing engines, we took out the old engine with gearbox
and did a test-run of new engine with gearbox on the bench.
No issues there and great shifting -- of course - this gearbox was
good (and hopefully is good)

Put the new engine back in together with gearbox and put it onto
Float-A motor (had to change things anyway as original rig was
OLD and rubber-parts badly-worn-out).

Float a motor looks good and i think height is correct.
(rounded part of fly-wheel-housing is on height of upper-frame)
Front-side-height and alignment for sure is perfect.
(crank fits in perfect)

Will take wood parts out again and will open clutch inspection
plate next.

Might Radius-ball be to tight or too loose??
(old oil-rotten rubber-ball; no springs; somewhat tightened....)

PLEASE come back with your ideas before i start taking
gearbox (and engine) out again???

Thank you
Christoph

[Jim Brierley]

Before leaping into it, have another Model A'er or two drive it. It could be normal A noises?

[1931 flamingo]

Was the U-joint tight to the back of the tranny when re-installed?? Pilot bearing ck'd/replaced??
Paul in CT

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Might be something SO simple. One day I had a new REALLY ALARMING! noise---was just the knob loose on my R/H windshield swing out arm!(WHEW!) Bill W.

[Fred K-OR]

Christoph, are you sure it is in the trany area or could it be the rear end?

[juke joint johnny]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Christoph
Sounds like it's time to replace the radius ball fittings .
I hope that's the problem.

John Cochran

[BrianBurkert]

Do you have the sheet metal engine pans on the sides of the engine? Sometimes they rattle loudly.

I'd suspect some sort of vibration/interference (floor boards, brake rods, battery box, etc) before I'd assume a mechanical problem inside the clutch/gearbox. Model A engines, especially new tight ones, tend to have vibrations when decelerating.

[Christoph]

...a minor update

Managed to do a short test drive as no rain for some hours.

Starting to drive, i thought noise might have gone.

The warmer the engine (gearbox) gets, the more noise
there is.
Its a sound with the speed of the driveshaft (i guess)
but out of gearbox area.
Best to spot while just sailing along.

Decided to put car on jacks/stands, turne wheels an
listen with a stethoscope (next weekend)

Jim
Id love to let you drive it
SADLY there is no other "A" arround
( most pre ww2 things are gone somehow)

Normal "A"-noises with my old engine used to be VERY different
(and additional i guess i dont like the Float-A motor )

Flamingo
Good one. Didnt take U-joint away so ididnt have to reinstall
Should have checked it anyway
Pilot bearing was just one year old but its very new now !

Bill
Thank you for make me think positive.
For sure got to get used to new (float-A-motor) noises .
Got to top you... Some time ago i lost the knob of the window-
swing-arm which fell outside the car while driving.
Fancy this ... Pre-war-car parked and fully-grown-owner
skidding on knees through brush-wood....

Fred
Im pretty sure its not the rear-end.
Destroyed the pinion just one year ago, had lots of fun than and
did everything new there (additional i cant stand this idea).

Further ideas wellcome

Will keep you updated
Christoph

[Rusty Homestead Fl]

Disconnect the speedometer cable and see what happens. Noise travels. I'd try ANYTHING before pulling anything major. Just a suggestion.

[Christoph]

Wow - even more comments while writing my update.
Thank you

John
Come over mate - you seem to be closest other A-driver arround
You got to drive it .
Well i guess you are right, but this seems NOT to be the prob
I might have mislead here.

Brian
Good one here but i didnt reinstall pans as i feared they dont like this float-thing.
Might be good idea to relax a while
and do some more test drives....to get used to new noises

RH
Will investigate according
Had some ideas regarding exhaust too
new silentblocks there....

Will find out about
Christoph

[PC/SR]

What kind of noise, clunk, rattle, hum, schreech? Does it make noise while coasting, clutch in, and with trans in neutral? Do replace the radius ball set up with the correct springs. There should be some "give" there to absorb the shocks of driving. It could be making "clunk clunk" sounds without the springs as shock absorbers. I doubt the Float a Motor is causing any noise, so long as it is tight against the flywheel housing and frame.

[Christoph]

clunking tributary to speed
with gear and in neutral
clutch in and clutch out...
engine on and engine of

no way to influence
i know that would lead us more to the rear...

I doubt the float-a motor causes noises too, but it changes the well
known-to-me-noises of my "A"
And it seems to me that its no advantage to the old-rotten-original.

i guess i should be able find some radius-ball-springs in my collection
called "Offerings to the god of speed"

[ctlikon0712]

What about the common issue of too long a starter bolt used that goes through to the flywheel and rubs? Would be a constant RPM related noise.......

[QGolden]

Noise changes with speed.

Clutch in, Clutch out, in gear an in Neutral, engine on, engine off makes not difference. Sort of seems that the motor and transmission are out of the picture.

Got to look at what is still turning with the tranny in neutral and the engine off.

Drive shaft, universals, tail shaft bearing, rear end, rear wheels.

Can you "feel" it as well as hear it?
Can you time it to speed, for instance does it time to once each wheel revolution?

[JBill]

Is the starter drive totally disengaging? Sounds okay when starting? No possibility of broken spring or loose starter spring bolt? Grasping at straws here.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Is the tab on the special thick washer, that secures the U-joint, engaged in the space between two splines? If not the U-joint may have become loose.

[Christoph]

Thank you so much for your ideas !
I really appreciate that !!

Craig and JBill
Engine starts great and sounds perfect (if not driving)
Starter issues should appear once engine runs.

QGolden
"Can you feel"
Not really, but i am not to sure. Will investigate.

"Does it time to..."
No - its speed-related but i cant count
Maybe just im not able to detect this, as i was not
able to count it when my Pinion was gone a year ago.
Once i had the rear axle out (back than), it was easy
to count...

Tom
I need to check that.
Cant remember what that looks alike.
Will be back regarding this.

Thank you again
Christoph

[Christoph]

Tom

I think you are talking about parts on attached screen-print.
Your idea sounds good to me, because:

We took out engine together with the tranny.
We put tranny to the new engine and did a test drive
on the bench (just each gear for a sec).
We sadly didnt take off the U-joint
It rotated free without being supported
Grease flew all around (best part of the story)

Special-washer (and U-joint) might have come out of its seat
As i didnt loosen it, i sadly didnt check if its tight afterwards.
Shame on me.

Where does this washer go with its nose??
Cant remember as one year since i built in ...
Will investigate
Will get me a stethoscope (screwdriver) to investigate details


Will tell you about
Thank you
Christoph

[Tom Wesenberg]

You need to insert a socket and extension through the center of the U-joint to screw the bolt and washer tight, but first just very lightly turn the bolt in, then spin the washer so you can feel the upset tab fit into the space between the spines. Then do the final tightening of the bolt.

[Christoph]

Thank you so much Tom

I do remember that i used a socket and extension through
the center of the U-joint, but i forgot about the rest ....
Will investigate and for sure will be back

Got to confess that i put a new (rebuilt) generator to the
new engine which does not hold your EVR up to now.
Will take EVR out of the "old" generator soon.

I learned lately, that im able to spot on amp-meter, once
(too) loose belt starts to slip

Greetings
Christoph