Head Gasket Information Needed....

[Utopia Texas]

I noticed that some vendors have two types of head gaskets available for the Model A engine. One is the copper clad and the other a steel core with silicone over lay. Does anyone have a preference of one over the other or reasons why one is better than the other for sealing block to head? Thanks...

[MAG]

X 2 on Copper

[Tiny]

The silicone ones have failed on a few of our club members.

[TinCup]

Taylormade motors in Texas recommends a gasket from someone in Arizona. Not sure who the supplier is but I have seen the gasket. I have used both the copper as well as the composition head gasket. I have seen blown copper and blown composition gaskets but recently have seen more of the comp gaskets go.

[Glenn C.]

I have used a gasket called "The Best Gasket" with a thin amount of Permatex shellac type sealer with good results.

[Flathead]

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I have the composition style on my motor. Not very many miles but no problems yet. Fresh rebuild, new head, surfaced deck on the block, new studs and nuts. Gasket was installed clean and dry as instructed by the supplier. Has been retorqued as instructed several different times. Timing is set right, engine doesn't overheat, and I don't lug the motor. If this gasket fails it is on them for a bad part. If I have no trouble It would suggest that these gaskets might be safe to use. We shall see.

[Dollar Bill]

No personal experience with the silicone version but I have heard of a lot of problems with that style. You also hear about problems with the copper too but most likely failure isn't the fault of the head gasket.

The head studs are spaced farther apart on on Model A engine than later engines, which really asks a lot from the head gasket.

Have always had good luck with copper gasket and see no reason to experiment. I spray both sides of the gasket with K&W Copper Coat and retorque several heat cycles or until it takes a set.

[Gary WA]

X3 Copper- New style failure three times! Lesson learned..

[emf]

I just put a newly rebuilt short block in my truck and then put a new 5.5 Snyder's head on it. Both the rebuilder and Snyders recommended the new black head gasket for this head. I have always used copper and was a little skiddish about the new style, but both parties recommended it. I did not want either to say, "You should have followed our directions..." I'll keep you posted about its longevity...

Frank

[Utopia Texas]

The reason I am asking about the head gaskets is that I drained the oil on my 1931 after it sat for a year and the oil was slightly milky looking though the level of fluid in the radiator did not go down. I changed the oil thinking it was condensation but the fresh oil is slightly milky again after two more oil changes and retorqueing the head bolts. I took the head off and inspected the old gasket and see nothing wrong so far. Cleaned the head and top of block off and scraped minor carbon off the piston tops and all looks well.
When I install the new head gasket after spraying with copper coat should I apply a very sparing amount of Black RTV around every fluid hole and around the distributor shaft hole also? I am in a quandary why this is happening though the gasket is 28 years old. Any Thoughts and ideas appreciated. When I did start this engine last month I did put a 1/2 ounce of MMO in each cylinder and a quart of oil down the distributor hole to fill the valve galley, then hand cranked the engine 12-15 times. It started with the starter motor in less than 5 seconds and runs quite well except for the slightly milky oil.
PS- I did note the other day that there was a drop of green antifreeze sitting on top of the head bolt closest to the water inlet side of the head. I wiped it off and the next morning another bright green drop was again sitting on top of the bolt. How this fluid I'd making its way through the head gasket and up the bolt makes me wonder what is going on here!

[tbirdtbird]

let us know how you make out

[glenn in camino]

I always use a copper gasket with a heavy spray coating of Copper Coat and a 2inch long piece of .030 copper wire buried in the narrow places between #2 and 3, and #3 and 4.

[Keith True]

I've used both kinds with no problems.The two failures with the composite type I saw were the owners fault.Both of them had sprayed the composite gasket with sealer before installing.They said,well the can sez right here to coat both sides before installing.The people that make it says use nothing.They mean it.That sprayed on sealer acts as a lube,and I saw two gaskets squirted out directly under the water pump.They didn't blow out under compression,it was just a skinny part of the gasket squeezing out under clamping pressure.I have had one under a Brumfield head for maybe 8??10?? years now.I did find a couple with the fire ring hanging out into the chamber.They won't last that way no matter what they are made of.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by Utopia Texas

I noticed that some vendors have two types of head gaskets available for the Model A engine. One is the copper clad and the other a steel core with silicone over lay. Does anyone have a preference of one over the other or reasons why one is better than the other for sealing block to head? Thanks...

check this site Model 'A' Ford Garage ~ Model 'B' Ford Garage has a lot of head and proper gasket info. Thanks to the supplier of this site.