More Spring Spreading...

[jerseyboy]

We'll I figured out that I needed to replace the shackles on the rear spring, and that I wanted to reverse the eyes on the front spring on my wagon.

I read a lot of the threads on removing springs and spring spreaders.

All that info left me a little confused and nervous(first time).

Well I liked Heard's and Jim1932's threads and found a link that Tinker had posted by Harmsway on the HAMB. The thing I liked best was that Harmsway posted a step by step with pictures.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...g-tool.646689/

Harmsway used the all thread method with c-clamps.

I also borrowed a spring spreader, just in case.

•The frame was already jacked up, so I unbolted the spring and axle and let it pivot down to were I could get the all-thread thru the center bolt hole.(wheels removed)
•Clamped spring with c-clamps.
•Unbolted center bolt.
•Put in all thread, washers and nuts(I had two nuts on each side). Tightened nuts.
•Clamped 2x4s on each side of the spring to prevent the leaves from twisting out.
•Removed c-clamps.
•Slowly loosened nuts and made sure bottom nuts were not walking out. I had to keep moving the "lock nut" on top so I could loosen the second top nut.
•Removed all thread when spring pressure against top not was gone.
•Removed leaves.
•Removed shackles.

I have to say, I really like this method and I will not be needing a spring spreader!

Pictures below.

Thanks to Harmsway and Tinker.

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!

[V8COOPMAN]

Piece o' cake, huh? Looks like an early '32 axle/spring? DD

[jerseyboy]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Piece o' cake, huh? Looks like an early '32 axle/spring? DD

Not sure, but wagon has a June assembly date. Most of it's features are mid to late year.

Keep V-ing and 4-banging!

[PeteVS]

Try to keep in mind that if you use this method, there's a lot of force on that nut and it does a lot of turning during the process. This means that there may be significant wear on the nut threads AND that those threads might let go. (Don't worry about the threaded rod- wear is evenly distributed along its length.) So, alway keep a "safety" nut just above the nut that's being turned under load.

[jerseyboy]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Try to keep in mind that if you use this method, there's a lot of force on that nut and it does a lot of turning during the process. This means that there may be significant wear on the nut threads AND that those threads might let go. (Don't worry about the threaded rod- wear is evenly distributed along its length.) So, alway keep a "safety" nut just above the nut that's being turned under load.

Pete,

That is exactly what I did. My dad was a test engineer for the Navy, and he insisted on redundancies!

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging

[PeteVS]

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Also, on the end that's not turning, install two nuts and lock them up tight against one another. Chances are that the threaded rod will want to back out of a single nut. (Don't ask how I know. I caught it before it got messy though.)

[John R]

These posts include lots of well-placed concern about the strength of the threaded components and possible failure. Solutions include Grade 8 threaded rod or Acme threaded rod, and coupling nuts or Grade 8 nuts instead of common nuts. All are readily available at McMaster-Carr or other industrial supply sources.

[Joe AZ]

I had a cast c-clamp break on me recently. (have now purchased two old / forged clamps) I like to wrap a length of chain around the spring as well, for extra security.
Unbelievable amount of force in these springs.....
Joe

[cmbrucew]

Joe AZ
Chains have different spec's as do bolts.
Sudden snaps will break pretty heavy duty chains.
They are made to lift x number of pounds.

Bruce

[Randy in ca]

I've use this method many times without incident. The rear spring on a Model A is as explosive as they get, and have never had a problem.

Rather than C-clamps I prefer to use spring to cross-member clamps themselves to hold things intact while removing the center bolt and installing the threaded rod. Somehow don't totally trust C-clamps.

I also prefer to use coupling nuts above and below the spring. They will turn easily even with the toughest spring such as a Model A rear.

[Tom Walker]

If you have a car lift, could you simply position the car on the lift but leave it on the ground. Undo the spring bolts. Lift car up to leave spring released?