48 Mercury hand brake

[whatdoyouwant]

The hand brake will not work. I have replaced everything from the handle to the rear shoes including all new cables, new cylinders, and new shoes. I adjust the shoes out per instructions until they drag, I them take all the slack out of the E-cable and attach it to the front cable. I pull the hand brake and nothing. I have pulled the drums many times and can see nothing wrong. I have disconnected the cable at the shoe for demonstration and here is my question. In the first pic, you will see how far back the E-Brake lever is from the tin shield around the axel. In pic two you will see how far the lever must travel to engage the operation lever. Notice how close it is now to the tin shield. I think when I pull the hand cable, the lever contacts the tin shield before it push the shoes far enough to engage the brake. In the third pic, is the cross operation lever. Is it possible the slot is worn so much all travel is lost before engagement? This appears to be the case on both rear wheels.

any ideas would be welcome

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by whatdoyouwant

The hand brake will not work. I have replaced everything from the handle to the rear shoes including all new cables, new cylinders, and new shoes. I adjust the shoes out per instructions until they drag, I them take all the slack out of the E-cable and attach it to the front cable. I pull the hand brake and nothing. I have pulled the drums many times and can see nothing wrong. I have disconnected the cable at the shoe for demonstration and here is my question. In the first pic, you will see how far back the E-Brake lever is from the tin shield around the axel. In pic two you will see how far the lever must travel to engage the operation lever. Notice how close it is now to the tin shield. I think when I pull the hand cable, the lever contacts the tin shield before it push the shoes far enough to engage the brake. In the third pic, is the cross operation lever. Is it possible the slot is worn so much all travel is lost before engagement? This appears to be the case on both rear wheels.

any ideas would be welcome

[51woodie]

I had the same problem as you described, when I changed the brake cable on my '46 Coupe. All was adjusted properly, but pulling the hand brake did not sufficiently apply the brakes, even though it felt like the brake was solidly applied. Here is what I did to sort out the problem. I had the drums on, and two nuts on each wheel to hold the drums in place, the park brake released, and the rear brakes adjusted so there was very slight drag when turning the drum. I then removed one drum and applied the hand brake. What I found was, that the return springs on the new cable were too long, so they became "coil bound", causing very little travel of the pivot arm. I shortened the spring (can't remember how much) leaving enough length to fully release the brakes. Reassembled, and problem solved.

[whatdoyouwant]

OK I will check the springs

[19Fordy]

Not sure if 1948 Merc and 1940 Ford E-brake set up are the same but,(if they are) here's a photo of the 1940 E-brake installed cable. As I recall, this photo was taken with the
Notice that the metal hold down clip attached to the backing plate holds down both the rear brake shoe AND extends over the top of the hand brake operating lever.

Here's a good thread dealing with E-brake installation and adjustment. Be sure to open the enclosed links inside the thread.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...mergency+brake

Also, be sure to install the little spring steel spring retainer in front of the E-Brake tube to prevent the spring outside the tube. You can make one out of the metal banding strips used to tie down pallet loads.

[petehoovie]

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Originally Posted by 51woodie

I had the same problem as you described, when I changed the brake cable on my '46 Coupe. All was adjusted properly, but pulling the hand brake did not sufficiently apply the brakes, even though it felt like the brake was solidly applied. Here is what I did to sort out the problem. I had the drums on, and two nuts on each wheel to hold the drums in place, the park brake released, and the rear brakes adjusted so there was very slight drag when turning the drum. I then removed one drum and applied the hand brake. What I found was, that the return springs on the new cable were too long, so they became "coil bound", causing very little travel of the pivot arm. I shortened the spring (can't remember how much) leaving enough length to fully release the brakes. Reassembled, and problem solved.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Not sure if 1948 Merc and 1940 Ford E-brake set up are the same but,(if they are) here's a photo of the 1940 E-brake installed cable.
Notice that the metal hold down clip attached to the backing plate holds down both the rear brake shoe AND extends over the top of the hand brake operating lever. This is also shown in the thread below.

Here's a good thread dealing with E-brake installation and adjustment. be sure to open the enclosed links.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...mergency+brake

[rich b]

You can also let some of the excess spring length "hide" inside the cable tube by inserting the 91A-2113 clip in between coils in the spring.

[19Fordy]

Rich, That's a good point. Never thought of it. Thanks.

[mercguy]

That's exactly what I did. The spring is too long binding before forcing the arm to
move the shoe. Either cut off some of the spring or better yet do what Rich did and
move the retainer clip. Nothing like poor reproduction parts.

[whatdoyouwant]

That sure would be easier than trying to cut and remove part of the spring>

[rich b]

Originally Posted by whatdoyouwant

That sure would be easier than trying to cut and remove part of the spring>

Easy to cut the spring; but trying to wind the excess off the cable is not fun.

[FlatheadTed]

If you have warn drums or undersize linnings you need to weld up the slot in the 12109 LH / RH connector link .it only takes 1/8 or so of weld on each side or 1/4 on one side , you could put oversize linnig's on also can work .by doing that weld it will set the cable arm closer to the shoe and allow the spring room to move , Also make sure you you assemble them as the picture ,they can be fitted to the opposite sides and could be unsafe ,Ted

[whatdoyouwant]

I did turn the rear drums, so maybe that is part of the problem. I purchased new shoes, so don't really want to buy oversize at this time. Welding a little sounds like an option.

[19Fordy]

What is the ID of the drums you turned?

If it's greater than 12.060in, you need new drums.

[FlatheadTed]

Drum are a consideration ,But The slots likely worn plus associated links so you would be restoring it ,to insure you have a safe hand brake .

[51woodie]

Drum diameter and a matching radius of the brake shoe is critical to good braking. I installed Boling Brothers kits with new shoes on my '46 Coupe, with drums that were stock diameter. The braking was worse than with the old Lockheed units with contaminated shoes. I pulled the drums, and found there was only +/- 40% contact showing on all the shoes. As there is no shop in the area to arc the shoes, I made a tool to sand down the high spots. After sand/test drive cycles, I have brakes that will make the tires howl on a hard brake application.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 51woodie

Drum diameter and a matching radius of the brake shoe is critical to good braking. I installed Boling Brothers kits with new shoes on my '46 Coupe, with drums that were stock diameter. The braking was worse than with the old Lockheed units with contaminated shoes. I pulled the drums, and found there was only +/- 40% contact showing on all the shoes. As there is no shop in the area to arc the shoes, I made a tool to sand down the high spots. After sand/test drive cycles, I have brakes that will make the tires howl on a hard brake application.

[whatdoyouwant]

I will try my best to measure the inside diameter of my drums

al