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Old 02-28-2011, 08:28 PM   #1
JeffM
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Default help with 30 A rear hubs.

Hi guys, new here.
I own a 1930 A Colonial cab, and have siezed rear hubs.
Im new to all this, and need advise on how to pull it apart, and fix it as well as replace left side backing plate, which im waiting on new one to arive.

Im on the hamb, but after searching both sites, ive come up with nothing.
Im doing this by myself, so any advise would be very helpfull.
Thanks, check my albums for pics of pickup.
Ill do a better explaination on the cab later.
Jeff.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:53 PM   #2
flatford39
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

You need a hub puller. I have gotten them off with a standard three jaw Crafstman wheel puller but you might want to invest in something a little more substantial.

The A ones come off pretty easy with the small three jaw Craftsman. The AA ones can be a real PITA.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:55 PM   #3
JeffM
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Thanks Flatford39.
Ill get right on it.
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:29 PM   #4
Bob C
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Jeff, Do the drums turn and can you turn the adjusters? If
not the linings are probably rusted to the drum. Let us
know and we can go from there.

Bob
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:38 PM   #5
J Franklin
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

A bit of heat on the taper might help too. Also a bump with a hammer on the end of the puller when it is cinched down helps.
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:39 PM   #6
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

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If you are going to do the whole rear end you will need a spring spreader.
(The chances are the axle hubs are worn out.)
Get a good one and EDUCATE yourself on how to use it.
There have been volumes of info written on the various model A websites on the SAFE use of them.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:00 AM   #7
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob C View Post
Jeff, Do the drums turn and can you turn the adjusters? If
not the linings are probably rusted to the drum. Let us
know and we can go from there.

Bob
Bob, the drums dont turn, they're stuck pretty good.
I havent tried adjusters, but have been spraying WD40 on everything for the last two months.
Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:01 AM   #8
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J Franklin View Post
A bit of heat on the taper might help too. Also a bump with a hammer on the end of the puller when it is cinched down helps.
Thanks, i was told i may need to heat them.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:06 AM   #9
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete View Post
If you are going to do the whole rear end you will need a spring spreader.
(The chances are the axle hubs are worn out.)
Get a good one and EDUCATE yourself on how to use it.
There have been volumes of info written on the various model A websites on the SAFE use of them.
Thanks, im hoping i dont have to do to much to sort it, the truck was running when parked up in the late 70s.
Im slowly reading all sorts of info, and had touched on the rear spring.
Im loving learning about it, its simple, but complex all at the same time.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:11 AM   #10
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

The first thing to do is move the adjusters all the way out, which is counterclockwise. Use the correct 4 sided wrench, so you don't round the corners of the adjuster. Heat may be needed, as well as soaking them with penetrating oil.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:13 AM   #11
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Thanks Tom, ill go and see if they will move after i finish cooking our evening meal, its six pm here. lol.
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:25 AM   #12
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Ok, finished eating, and went out to have a look.
Left side adjuster is munted, so itll be a vise grip job, but right side is good. Stuck, but good.
Im using an Aussie penitrating oil called Inox. I hear Gibbs is the best, but using what i have. Just gave them both another dose, so ill see how i go tomorrow.
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:39 AM   #13
pat in Santa Cruz
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

those adjusters can fool you. After all those years, the threads get pretty gummed up with rust and dirt. It will seem as if they are adjusted all the way back, but if the drum will not move off the axle more than a quarter inch, odds are the adjusters need to go back more.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:15 PM   #14
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

I've had the same problems with my rear hubs and developed and now produce a rear hub puller based on the K.R. Wilson ABV-156 hub puller with some nice "enhancements".

You can check it out here: http://vintageprecision.com/products...ers/index.html
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:13 AM   #15
JeffM
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Guys, i cant thank you all enough.
Awesome advise, ive got a good puller coming, and organised a few more things today in between other jobs.
Things move slow in my little corner of the world, but when i get into something, i move pretty quick. Hope to have everthing i need to fully sort all this in the next few days.
Ill let you all know how i get on, and hope do do a thread on my "strange" cab in the next few days.
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:14 AM   #16
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 925DiabloA View Post
I've had the same problems with my rear hubs and developed and now produce a rear hub puller based on the K.R. Wilson ABV-156 hub puller with some nice "enhancements".

You can check it out here: http://vintageprecision.com/products...ers/index.html
Thanks, if things dont go my way, ill look at importing one. Looks like a great tool.
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:39 AM   #17
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

wd 40 stinks as a penetrant, its an electrical drier, try a 50-50 mix of acetone and auto trans oil, get two 3 or 4 pound hammers, put one one one side of the drum snout as a back up, smack the other side of the snout with the other, give it a pretty good whack, do that all the way around the snout, do the same with the brake drum, but dont hit it as hard as you do the drum snout, using a back up hammer and hitting with the other side will distort the drum and snout a small amout helping to break loose the the rust that is holding things together
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:49 AM   #18
Jerry Parr WI
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

You have two conditions to deal with. The advice offered about loosening the adjuster and breaking the shoes loose from the drums should be followed first. Once the drum is loose from the the shoes you will be able to turn the drum. At that point you can work on getting the drum off the axle which is the step that requires the puller.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:30 PM   #19
Bruce of MN
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Sometimes the drum comes off with a bang, so fix up something to control it if it does. Maybe a heavy blanket draped in front, with something more substantial behind that. You wouldn't want the drum to smash into your Aston Martin.
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:04 AM   #20
JeffM
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Got it done.
A few good wacks, a little heat, some more wacks and messing about with a homemade puller a friend made at trade school, and they came off.
Looks like it had good shoes a long time ago.
Unfortanatly, the adjusters are had it, but i need new backing plates anyway.
Heres a few pics of todays progress.
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File Type: jpg gonzos models 098.jpg (68.0 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg gonzos models 099.jpg (56.0 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg gonzos models 100.jpg (60.2 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg gonzos models 101.jpg (64.0 KB, 57 views)
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:57 AM   #21
Bill in SoCal
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

How much can you salvage? The drums are gone, but the hubs could be good. The brake adjusting wedges and covers can be replaced (about $10.00 US each plus shipping). What's wrong with the backing plates? If you are keeping the brakes stock and replacing the backing plates try to get the best roller tracks on the rear brake camshaft bracket you can find. To replace the unit yourself will run about $50 US each. Buying used backing plates can be expensive to restore. Good luck, Bill
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:38 AM   #22
J Franklin
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

What is the problem with your original backing plates?
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:04 AM   #23
JeffM
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

You cant see in the pics, but the left side backing plate has holes rusted right through.
The right side is still good.
Theres a Guy here who sells A stuff, hes on here, but i forgot his user name, and hes been very helpfull. Will be buying my parts from him when he gets back from overseas.

Just realised, you can see rusted holes in second pic at top of the page.
Ive been given another, just waiting for it to arrive.

Now im going to be asking brake questions. lol.
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:47 AM   #24
Mike in NRN IN
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

Jeff,

Good job on the rear drums. It's not an easy task, and it looks like all the components are nice and clean.

I highly recommend two books as a minimum (my daughter and I refer to these as the "A" Bibles) - I am providing the Snyder's Antique Auto website links, because that is what I am familiar with. These are available from most Model A Supply companies.

Les Andrews' Mechanics Handbook
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/2167

-and-

The Model A Service Bulletins
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/2106

There is a third book that I find useful as well.

Les Andrews Mechanics Handbook Vol. II
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4328

Mine are all well used with greasy finger prints and hand written notes all over them.

Good luck and enjoy the heck out of the rebuild. It's great fun.

Mike in Northern Indiana
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:16 PM   #25
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

You are very fortunate to have had success with that puller! Usually takes something far more sturdy.
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Old 03-05-2011, 03:37 PM   #26
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Default Re: help with 30 A rear hubs.

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Mike, thanks for the links to the books. Im sure am enjoying rebuilding this so far. Its not real complicated and its only a lack of spare cash, thats slows me down.

Russ, at the start we thought the puller wasnt up for the job, but i stuck with it, and once the first bit of brake shoe showed, i knew we could get there.
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