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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walla Walla, Washington USA
Posts: 5,907
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So here is the background...
The A frame is straight all the way around. Attached the Rear Motor Mounts to the frame. Attached the Flywheel Housing to the Rear Motor Mounts (no engine in the frame). Attached the Clutch Housing Assembly to the Flywheel Housing. With the assembled front end and rear end on jackstands, attached those to the frame with wheels and tires on both. When I bring the front end's Front Radius Rod up to attach to the Clutch Housing, it is off to the right about 3/4 of an inch...I would think it should just come up and mate with Clutch Housing but it does not. Same with rear end...off to the side about 1 inch but when I bring the Torque Tube upwards it strightens itself out but with some force. At first I thought the main spring attachment bolt was off so I moved it but that only slightly helped. Any ideas as to what might be the cause? Again the frame is straight at all angles. It may straighten up when I put the whole assembly on the ground but it is hotter than hell here so staying inside for a while. Thanks. Pluck
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www.plucks329s.org Walla Walla (WA) Sweet A's since 1993 MARC/MAFCA member since 1978 Ford Model AA Truck Club since 1998 (LIONEL/MTH Toy Train Collector, Orange Crush Soda Collector, Steel Beer Can Collector, Old Gas Pump Collector) |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Spring Grove, Illinois
Posts: 855
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I had a similar issue with the radius ball aligning with the clutch housing, though mine was not off that far. I was able to just jack it into place, but 3/4 of an inch is fairly large. I don't have any idea why this is like this because my frame was straight as well, and any sag around the motor mounts would not do this.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 813
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A slight bend in the front axle, or a slight misalignment of the spring eyes, will magnify over the length of the radius rods. I don't think 3/4 inch is too bad, so long as you can move it into the socket without too much force needed.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,907
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Are the spring shackles tightened up tight? (as they shouldn't be) Or do they have a little slack?
Also the U bolts should be on the loose side while you're assembling things and tightened later when it's all together.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
Posts: 1,224
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Similar problem when we put front end back together after rebuilding.
We were using a different wishbone. The original one was worn and bent where it mounted to front axel on drivers side. Well problem was axel also had a very slight bend. Most likely car was hit years ago on drivers side front wheel. Fixed axel problem, everything fit fine. Enjoy. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 2,191
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Assemble loose then tighten up the hardware! Just maybe?
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#7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 962
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Steve did you do the diagonal measurements? Just for grins do you have an old bare block. Put on the timing cover and front support yoke and install and look at where the stud on the yoke matches with the hole in the F. crossmember. That is just another indicator of Parallel issue but to the other side. Flying quails long ago.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 916
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Pluck, for what it's worth. When I had my motor,trans etc out of the car along with the front fenders removed I could lift the very ends of each frame rail up a good inch or two with one finger. the front end was off as well and my jack stands were just ahead of the motor mounts. These babies flex.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 909
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The assembled driveline is 'god' not the frame.this is a pretty constant argument here,the frame is a way to carry the body and transmits some suspension load but the true rigidity and basis for 'square' is the assembled engine/trans/torque tube/rear axle,in my opinion..once the driveline is installed leave spring u bolts loose to catch with wishbone ball.
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Hat City (Danbury CT)
Posts: 578
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I hope I understand correct
Rear T tube I ratchet strap To pull Front wish bone the same that set the caster 6 degrees . Some times if shackles aren’t rebuild it could cause issue.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walla Walla, Washington USA
Posts: 5,907
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Thanks Guys!
I will take all these suggestions under consideration when harvest is over and the heat dies down. Pluck
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www.plucks329s.org Walla Walla (WA) Sweet A's since 1993 MARC/MAFCA member since 1978 Ford Model AA Truck Club since 1998 (LIONEL/MTH Toy Train Collector, Orange Crush Soda Collector, Steel Beer Can Collector, Old Gas Pump Collector) |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 5,388
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There are lots of ways the A frame might not line up exactly. Spring shackles need only be slightly off and the movement is magnified by the time you're back at the ball. A few thousandths of an inch inch clearance in the shackles is all it could take to make a difference like that and who worries about a few thou there?
During the heat treatment of springs, it is VERY common for the leaves to "wander" a little. Again, a slight difference would make a 3/4" difference at the ball quite easily. Just pull the ball into place and do it up. That's what they will have done on the assembly line and they will have had the same things happen during heat treatment etc. Don't overthink this, just do it up and drive. Things will very quickly settle into a "happy" relationship.
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