05-06-2017, 09:32 AM | #61 | |
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Re: Horsepower
Quote:
My engine is baisically stock, it has a "B" cam in the engine and "B" dist cam, stock 3:78ratio, stock head(4.2 comp ratio)----I did put in valve seats so I could have the seating area high and narrow ---I doubt that my engine makes much over 40-45HP, and have averaged 23mpg at 65mph--not just ashort jaunt at 65, was over 1000 miles at 65 I have been trying to "shorten it's life" for the last 25 years by doing everything said to be bad for babbitt---lugging, full advance lugging, and going fast for long drives, it has proven to me that there isn't much you can do to save bad babbitt, and there isn't much you can do to hurt good babbitt(not including running out of oil, or coolant) |
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05-06-2017, 11:56 AM | #62 | |
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Re: Horsepower
My basically stock coupe ( I can't tell you what the bore and stroke and valve Dia, or the cam grind is) but it runs strong. I think there may be a HC head. I think there may be a few lbs off the FW. A "B" carb. and ported and polished stock manifolds But when I get to 65 mph it makes noises and vibrates like it's saying "No, I don't want to go that fast!" I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
Terry Quote:
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05-06-2017, 12:07 PM | #63 | |
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Re: Horsepower
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I have a 30 roadster that I'm lucky to get 58 out of Not sure why bored 60 over other than that it is bone stock So the 29 I'm looking for more power Terry Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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05-06-2017, 12:26 PM | #64 | |
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Re: Horsepower
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Not the full 7 mile course available in the 1920's when it was the fastest place on earth |
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05-06-2017, 04:36 PM | #65 |
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Re: Horsepower
Chances are it was bored, not for HP, but because the Cylinders were worn out and the previous owner(s) had it done. I say that because if they wanted moreHP, they would have hung more goodies on it. I have a stock head that I'm going to measure the thickness of for comparisons . Most times when a engine has some machine work done on it, one thing they almost always do is cut the head for flatness. Some rebuilders will "deck" the block as well. This all adds to the compression. Also, boring an engine will result in higher compression ratio too, without cutting the head.
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05-12-2017, 01:09 AM | #66 |
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Re: Horsepower
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I'd be happy with a 3.27 ring and pinion, high compression head, and counterweighted crankshaft. No matter how much horsepower I had, I'd never want to drive faster than 60 MPH. Modern cars run so smooth, quiet, and have so much horsepower, that it encourages people to drive faster than they should. Plus they have become more self centered and rude, and they tailgate and drive distracted, so I'd rather switch to less traveled roads than try to keep up with the speed nuts. |
05-12-2017, 01:44 AM | #67 |
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Re: Horsepower
What's a "flowed Model-B carb"?
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05-12-2017, 07:50 AM | #68 |
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Re: Horsepower
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05-12-2017, 08:39 AM | #69 | |
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Re: Horsepower
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Quote:
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05-12-2017, 08:43 AM | #70 |
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Re: Horsepower
Yup no true racer is going to give his tricks out. He may give you one that every one else knows.
Last edited by George Miller; 05-12-2017 at 09:27 AM. |
05-12-2017, 08:56 AM | #71 |
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Re: Horsepower
counter weighted crank , balanced , insert rod/mains . full flow oil system , v8 modified oil pump , b cam . hc head , weber carb ........... that should put you there +
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05-12-2017, 10:53 AM | #72 |
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Re: Horsepower
Terry,Brent,V4F,
I read alot in between the lines and, pick and chose what route to take So, So far this is where I'm at Bored 125 over, AER pistons,Rods, insert bearings Counter weighted the crank, Lighting the flywheel not sure how much off as of yet still working on that Stipe 340 cam Snyder 6.0 head removing .010 Best head gasket, piston sticks out the top .051 head right now has a .052 recess cut in it removing .010 off that ,head gasket crush should be .053-.055 so this should leave me with about .042 of quich area Valves are in. 1.750, ex. 1.50 As of right now the plan is yet this year to still run the A intake and carb This will be the hangup and only time will tell Looking at Tod's intake from Snyder's and maybe the Weber carb that they advertise Thanks all and any Info you may have is greatly appreciated Tinkirk/Terry PS i'm sure I have forgotten something |
05-12-2017, 11:06 AM | #73 | |
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Re: Horsepower
Pay attention to "Valve Float"! These old engines weren't built with high revs and valve float in mind. Stronger springs and adjustable tappets seem an improvement that one would have to consider when making the engine go faster.
Terry Quote:
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05-12-2017, 12:35 PM | #74 |
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Re: Horsepower
Oh yea have them also
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05-12-2017, 07:58 PM | #75 |
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Re: Horsepower
[QUOTE=tinkirk;1471478]Terry,Brent,V4F,
It sounds like you have or are going to have the core of a pretty powerful Mod A engine. You've got all the components of a great engine minus the gas to fire it. I have believed that the carburation on the Mod A is poor at best, with 200 C.I., stock cam, etc, etc, etc! Add your mods and it only gets worse. Take your manifold and at least polish it out then add a rebuilt "B" carb., it's a bolt on! The only thing you will need is $10 fuel line for the fittings. The "B" carb has larger throat to process more gas/air mix for the same C.I. Just sayin'! Terry Bored 125 over, AER pistons,Rods, insert bearings Counter weighted the crank, Lighting the flywheel not sure how much off as of yet still working on that Stipe 340 cam Snyder 6.0 head removing .010 Best head gasket, piston sticks out the top .051 head right now has a .052 recess cut in it removing .010 off that ,head gasket crush should be .053-.055 so this should leave me with about .042 of quich area Valves are in. 1.750, ex. 1.50 As of right now the plan is yet this year to still run the A intake and carb |
05-13-2017, 12:14 AM | #76 |
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Re: Horsepower
With those mods, you have wasted a lot of money if you stay with the stock A manifold and carb.
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05-13-2017, 07:15 AM | #77 | ||
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Re: Horsepower
Quote:
Quote:
With regard to carburetor, yes a 1.250" throat-sized B carb is easier to use however a Model-A carburetor (not a Tillotson or aftermarket) can be reworked internally to flow enough fuel. The only place I have noticed where the extra air from the B carb has been an advantage is at actual WOT. Even for a Model-A cruising at 55-60 with an overdrive or hi-speed ring & pinion, you are not at WOT. Also, the biggest benefit I see with an aftermarket exhaust is the scavenging effect you receive with running a collector on long primary tubes. The caveat is it takes velocity to create the vacuum or scavenging effect, -which unless you are racing never really enters in. In addition to that, a Model-A has too large of an exhaust valve & port. Then, you lose the full effect of the scavenging by using the stock Model-A exhaust & muffler, so my view is unless you building an engine for competition, go with the combination I mentioned way back in post #9, ...and if you are seeking a faster cruising speed, spend the money you were going to use on purchasing the exhaust header & Weber carb and buy a 3.27 ring and pinion. |
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05-13-2017, 09:01 AM | #78 |
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Re: Horsepower
Brent, You are absolutely correct! The main runner must be bored out to at least 1.250 for it to work (model B carburetor) and I forgot to mention it. I know of the "discussion" in the hobby/industry regarding polishing ports. Some are in favor of it and some are on the other side and feel that too smooth a surface will not break up the tiny droplets of gas as well as a rougher surface. Myself, being a pilot, have first hand experience with air passing over smooth versus rough surfaces and smooth wins every time so I'm having a hard time embracing the "Rough" side. Although, your analogy to a golf ball has me rethinking what I think I know. Also, weren't Pirianio's comparisons between A and B carburetors done with polished manifolds?
Terry |
05-13-2017, 05:23 PM | #79 |
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Re: Horsepower
Brent
??? what is the least amount of clearance between top of piston to head would be save??? Tinkirk/Terry |
05-13-2017, 11:26 PM | #80 | |
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Re: Horsepower
Quote:
So I decided to make a race car. I milled the head off till there was nothing left but the valve chamber. Then I had to bore it deeper to make room for the valves to lift 'cause I didn't put a gasket it back on it either--I just glued the head on with coppercoat. As for the cam shaft, I just ground it on a regular bench grinder and welded the lifters longer so I could adjust it. I made the exhaust open well before the piston was all the way down from the power stroke and didn't close it until it was starting back down on the fuel intake, then it would drop, with lots of valve overlap. Then I put a 21-in. half-inch straight pipe on it for the exhaust. When you finally got that thing started, you couldn't stop it! You could mow as tall and wet and as heavy a grass as you ever saw and it would just grind it up. I mean literally RUN through the yard, trying to bog it down. I tried and tried to just blow that thing up. Couldn't do it. It got to where it smoked pretty bad. I called it Thumper! You know, that scavenging effect thing works pretty good. But you gotta have it revved to the nuts to work! Once it gets there, it's like a rocket! |
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