1955 Club Sedan 302 Radiator Options

[Mad Mux]

Thanks, KULTULZ! By the way I used your joke at a gig last night while guitar player changing string....got a good chuckle from the audience.

I read the stampings wrong, both WP pulley and PSP bracket are D8, so '78, if it matters.

I just want a runner for now....would like to keep that Alt bracket; although it will look bad with unused AC mount, it is STURDY, and it lets Alt clear all suspension. If it's safe/reliable to run Alt and WP off #2 crank groove, I'd rather. If you all believe I MUST run Alt off #1 crank groove, then I'll have to change Alt bracket, and space the PSP forward to line up with #2 crank groove...all doable, but more time not driving it!

[Mad Mux]

More pics.
1) Back of PS pump, maybe somebody recognizes it?
2) OE radiator U-bracket; you can see the steel plates the builder welded on to mount the aftermarket radiator...those aren't coming off easy.
3) Rad that came with it...aftermarket alum, looks very much like late 60's Mustang rad.
4) Less than 2" clearance to radiator; also Note outlet port is VERY close to crank pulley...TOO close. OE pattern rad should be further away.
5) Driver's-side valve cover very close to firewall, motor mounted as far back as it can go; but since it has long water pump and 3-groove crank pulley, it's very close to rad.

First priority is getting the pulleys sorted out, then the radiator and fan should be easy enough.
Thanks mucho!

[JeffB2]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

Re-read your post....I must have a "long" water pump, it has mechanical fuel pump and dipstick in the timing cover. I like your suggestion, but maybe for down the road....would be easier to just push the radiator forward, or mount as OE and put electric fan on front (pusher). Right?

If the radiator were mounted like a 1955 Six cylinder car you would gain more clearance.

[JeffB2]

This shows how the Six cylinder cars mounted the radiator forward,notice in the lower part it shows panels for a Six these move the splash pan forward since yours probably had a Y-block you need to modify the splash pan to move the radiator forward. I have some pictures to follow so you can see that solution.

[JeffB2]

One more image.

[Mad Mux]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks JeffB2!!!! Now I know why my splash pan is cut out just like that! A previous tinkerer must have played with just such a radiator mount, then ended up doing the hokey Mustang radiator thing. Your pics and post are great, and help me confirm I can use the smaller model rad made by Champion Radiators, which will fit within the U-bracket (excuse my terminology)...I just have to get them to reverse the bracket ears to the engine side of the rad, then it will mount much like the I-6 rads. Then I'll have tons of fan clearance. Thanks again!

Still cogitating on the pulley configuration.

[Mad Mux]

This pic shows the splash pan is already cut out for a forward-mounted radiator, although I dont think I'll need that much cutout.

[JeffB2]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

This pic shows the splash pan is already cut out for a forward-mounted radiator, although I dont think I'll need that much cutout.

It very often comes down to that ,finding those lower OEM 6 cylinder sheet metal pieces would not come easy these days in your local Pick-A-Part.

[Mad Mux]

Thank goodness there are still a few Ford graveyards scattered around the country...I've been talking to one in central Kansas, in fact my car's title has the proprietor's name on it (still)....no use re-titling it if I can't get it running.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

Thanks, KULTULZ! By the way I used your joke at a gig last night while guitar player changing string....got a good chuckle from the audience.

I read the stampings wrong, both WP pulley and PSP bracket are D8, so '78, if it matters.

I just want a runner for now....would like to keep that Alt bracket; although it will look bad with unused AC mount, it is STURDY, and it lets Alt clear all suspension. If it's safe/reliable to run Alt and WP off #2 crank groove, I'd rather. If you all believe I MUST run Alt off #1 crank groove, then I'll have to change Alt bracket, and space the PSP forward to line up with #2 crank groove...all doable, but more time not driving it!

What you have to consider is that pulley sheath diameter(s) were designed to achieve proper accessory drive speed(s).

A pusher fan will obstruct air flow through the radiator. It might be better to move the radiator forward (if it will fit within the confines of the core support) if wanting to keep the present FEAD (Front Engine Accessory Drive).

Is that a TRANS COOLER mounted in front of the RAD?

Do you see an ID TAG on the PS pump?

Another forum member here has a '56 that had a mis-matched SBF conversion.

Can you give the first five characters of the VIN to see how it came out of the factory?

[Mad Mux]

1) Yes, I do plan to push the radiator forward into the U-bracket, should give me plenty of room for flex or puller electric fan.
2) I do see a trans cooler in JeffB2's pic, but that's not mine. I will run trans lines to the standard 1/8-27 NPT fitted cooler on the new radiator.
3) No ID tag or stamping visible on the PS pump....I may have to pull it to try to see one.
4) Vin is U5DT2

Thanks!

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

2) I do see a trans cooler in JeffB2's pic, but that's not mine. I will run trans lines to the standard 1/8-27 NPT fitted cooler on the new radiator.

KEY WORDS ... I seem to have trouble noticing and understanding ...

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

4) Vin is U5DT2

Can you re-check that THIRD CHARACTER?

[KULTULZ]

BTW - That PS pump is a late SAGINAW, usually put on light truck.

The ALT mounts in the cradle of the bracket and the Thermactor Pump goes underneath it (OEM ASSEMBLY)

[Mad Mux]

Back of PS pump, after removing line that was leaking at the actuator...presumably that is the return line since its not a pressure fitting?

Another pic of pulleys:

Crank #3 (forwardmost) pulley=8.375"
Crank #2 pulley= 8"
Crank #1 pulley=6.75"
WP pulley=5.75"
Alt pulley=2.75"

WP pulley barely clears the #1 crank pulley belt, and #2 crank pulley overlaps it by 1/8" or so, almost touching....surely that's not right...is that what you (KULTULZ) meant by "you have a mis-match"?

Solution...get smaller crank pulleys, or a matched crank/WP pulley set from March? They make a 2-groove crank pulley that's 5.75" dia, which would solve the pulley overlap and bring the Crank-to-Alt ratio down closer to 2.

Another view of Alt bracket, sturdy as hell. I'll play with mouting it in the cradle, but it actually works very well where it's at.

Thanks, as always!

[Mad Mux]

Checked...U5DT2..., body code 70C, color code RES.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

Back of PS pump, after removing line that was leaking at the actuator...presumably that is the return line since its not a pressure fitting?

Correct. Line held by hose clamp is return.

WP pulley barely clears the #1 crank pulley belt, and #2 crank pulley overlaps it by 1/8" or so, almost touching....surely that's not right...is that what you (KULTULZ) meant by "you have a mis-match"?

By mis-match I meant the complete FEAD was thrown together from multi-vehicles.with no rhyme or reason.

Solution...get smaller crank pulleys, or a matched crank/WP pulley set from March? They make a 2-groove crank pulley that's 5.75" dia, which would solve the pulley overlap and bring the Crank-to-Alt ratio down closer to 2.

Another view of Alt bracket, sturdy as hell. I'll play with mouting it in the cradle, but it actually works very well where it's at.

Thanks, as always!

MARCH is $$$. It is the easiest way out but IMO presents a non-stock appearance.

As for the ALT MTG BRACKET, I only pointed that out as a reference. I cannot tell you how you want the engine to look. That is personal taste.

How did you come across this car? Was it drive-able at purchase?

[JeffB2]

American made company,kits available in black or billet. https://www.cvfracing.com/ford/ford-...ulley-systems/

[Mad Mux]

Thanks...I found them yesterday, but haven't called yet.

[Mad Mux]

Turns out my pulley setup may be "somewhat correct" after all. It doesn't make sense that Ford would have designed a FEAD setup to use the PS Pump as tensioner for the the WP, but apparently they did! Garrett from Mustangs Etc. in Van Nuys, CA pointed that out in a post I found, and here is a diagram for 1970 Mustangs from the "Mustang Grabber Registry" site. I will still see what CVF has to say about maybe running a smaller Crank pulley and changing to run a WP-Alt belt....but at least I now know the builder wasn't completely crazy!