10-16-2016, 08:11 PM | #1 |
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Carb ID
Can anyone identify this carb. It's on a 302. There is no tag on it, only has a stamp on the front of base on drivers side that reads 7DKA. I think it is a Motorcraft 2100? Car was running fine, then I removed it to clean all the gunk off the outside, did not open it up or anything, now won't run good or idle. Keeps dying. What happened?
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10-16-2016, 08:18 PM | #2 |
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Re: Carb ID
yes a 2100.the gasket under the carb may be leaking.never mess around with an old carb they dont like being turned over or anything like that.
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10-16-2016, 08:41 PM | #3 |
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Re: Carb ID
IMHO removing a carb mandates a rebuild if only a minor one. Any crap in the float bowl can get lodged in a jet or in the needle seat. gl
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10-16-2016, 08:56 PM | #4 |
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Re: Carb ID
Spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb while it is running and see if it changes anything. If so, you have a gasket or spacer leak.
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10-16-2016, 09:17 PM | #5 |
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Re: Carb ID
I'll give that a try. Any idea what year vehicle this carb could belong to.
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10-17-2016, 02:49 AM | #6 |
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Re: Carb ID
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10-17-2016, 06:57 AM | #7 |
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Re: Carb ID
if you havent got air to blow it out you can crosswire it so it backfires through the carb.i done this many times.
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10-17-2016, 07:43 AM | #8 |
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Re: Carb ID
Does anyone know of a new carb that will fit my 302 engine. Due to surgery I cannot get under car to look for the engine number which I'm not even sure where to look. There is a guy on ebay that sells 2100 carbs but not sure which one I would need. His ID is smafay, has one with
item # 151652320555. I'll attach a few photos of it. He has others but like I said, not sure which one I would need. |
10-17-2016, 11:07 AM | #9 |
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Re: Carb ID
Bought a rebuild kit. Will give that a try.
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10-17-2016, 01:19 PM | #10 |
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Re: Carb ID
If you do not have access to a can of carb cleaner that you can soak the disassembled carb. in , I suggest using Berrymans Chemtool B-12 carb cleaner in the spray can, and once you have the carb apart spray it in all the passages and other orifices and then blow out with compressed air to try and make sure all passages are clean. if you do not have a compressor, you can always get the compressed air in a can that is used for cleaning computers and electronic equipment. it is not real powerful, but better than nothing. I hope that this helps. I used to call this a " $5 overhaul/rebuild" , but the Berrymans B12 cost more than $5 these days.------Jim
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10-17-2016, 02:48 PM | #11 |
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Re: Carb ID
Thanks, took it to a guy I know who runs an auto shop and rebuilds carbs. There are 2 ahead of me but he does not charge much. I'm having some issues from an old Vietnam injury and right now I can't seem to do much. Thanks for the advise.
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10-17-2016, 06:02 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Carb ID
Quote:
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10-17-2016, 08:23 PM | #13 |
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Re: Carb ID
Oilslick.....................I have 302 in my 50 Ford. The engine casting number is on the bell housing where the starter bolts on. Nice design huh?? The starter has to be removed to read it. It will consist of one letter and four numbers. The letter represents the decade it was made; the first number counter clockwise is the year in that decade. C=1960, D=1970, E=1980 and F=1990. Mine was D7 which is 1977. Don't know what the other numbers mean. Hope this helps.
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10-17-2016, 08:28 PM | #14 |
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Re: Carb ID
That's actually a 2150 Motorcraft that came out in I think 1970 and replaced the 2100 which had a flatter bowl cover and a thinner wall around the choke plate and shaft.
Not sure about the number stamped in the front corner, but would guess 1977. Sal |
10-17-2016, 08:29 PM | #15 |
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Re: Carb ID
Also, don't try what post #7 said.
Sal |
10-17-2016, 08:36 PM | #16 |
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Re: Carb ID
Ditto on this backfire thing. Not only because risk of a fire, but they use the same power valve as a Holley, so you will blow it out. Also as Sal said it is a 2150, different than a 2100 in many ways.
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10-18-2016, 08:35 AM | #17 |
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Re: Carb ID
they dont blow out on a 2100.ive done this all my life.it wasw once a common thing for a quick fix.there are two kinds of people who work on cars mechanics and parts changers.most of the mechanics are long gone.
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10-18-2016, 12:47 PM | #18 |
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Re: Carb ID
Okay, just got tired of messing with this so I just purchased a new 2150 carb. Checked online and my carb was a 2150. A 2100 has a curve on back of base and the 2150 is straight, which mine was straight also. The reason I got a brand new one is that a 2150 has about 16 different rebuild kits and I did not know which one to get. A 2100 rebuild kit is not a problem. With the price of a rebuild kit, the cost to have someone rebuild it, decided to add a little more to it and get a new one. Besides, sometimes when they are rebuilt they don't always work that good. Found a new on with electric choke and looks just like a 2150 so hopefully it will work okay. I'll let you all know.
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10-18-2016, 01:06 PM | #19 |
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Re: Carb ID
Here is the 2150 I purchased. Here is my old carb. I think the new one will work.
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10-18-2016, 05:23 PM | #20 | |
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Re: Carb ID
Quote:
Then why not just hit it with a sledge hammer to fix it ? Your saying a good mechanic would do the backfire routine ? I think a good mechanic would take the carb apart and fix the problem. The backfire would send the dirt back into the carb for a 2nd chance to plug it up. And also disagree about the power valve never being harmed with a backfire. Sal |
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