4 Banger with Temperature Problems.. Please Help

[henryford30]

Hello Specialists
I have a 30 Ford Coupe with a 4 Banger Engine and a High Compression Cylinder Head. (5,5:1 ?)
I have a temperature problem and can't get anywhere with it.
How do I start...
If I fill up the Radiator until I see the water in the Radiator, so not all the way to the Filler neck and then start the engine, I see a movement of water through the water pump. so far everything is ok.
When driving slowly about 20-25 Mls is also everything still OK.
At medium speed it pushes some cooling water about 1/2 to 1 gallon over the overflow pipe into the open, the radiator network is then no longer full of water and if I then still have to brake it pushes even more water out of the overflow. If I then open the radiator cap and let the engine rev higher, the remaining water becomes foamy and the water runs over the open filler neck into the open, although the radiator is no longer full. But I can drive slowly with the little water in the radiator until I am back home.
When I drive on the Highway around 40-45 miles I lose water through the overflow again, then the water temperature rises constantly, so I have to drive slower again to get down with the temperature.
At 25 degrees outside temperature, the problems come later, at 35 degrees then even earlier.
I have already flushed the radiator, unfortunately I can not say whether he cleanist or not.
I also did a CO test because of exhaust gases in the cooling water, because I thought the cylinder head gasket is defective. But here everything is OK.
Now I do not know in which direction to look, is it the radiator or do I have hotspots in the engine that tend to boil?

It would be great if you could help me with your knowledge there possibly further

With best regards from Munich /Gernmany

Jose

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[1931 flamingo]

More than likely your radiator is plugged. Get a cheap temp sensing "gun" at Harbor Freight. After being warmed up there should be about 25-30+ difference between the top and bottom of the radiator.


What does the water look like in the radiator?? Clear, rusty, etc.
Paul in CT Come back to us after doing the temp check.


Also add your location as someone who could help might be near you.

[Gary WA]

What is your Gas Adjusting Valve and spark set at while driving?

[wwirz]

You may be overfilling the radiator. Measure the temperatures with an infrared. Usually what spills out in the overflow is due to overfilling. Temps should be normally in the 160 deg F range

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

More than likely your radiator is plugged. Get a cheap temp sensing "gun" at Harbor Freight. After being warmed up there should be about 25-30+ difference between the top and bottom of the radiator.


What does the water look like in the radiator?? Clear, rusty, etc.
Paul in CT Come back to us after doing the temp check.


Also add your location as someone who could help might be near you.

Germany says on the last sentence

[Dave in MN]

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My guess is that your test for exhaust gasses in the cooling water is errant. Everything you describe points to a leaking head gasket. I would test it again.
Good luck with finding the cause....
Good Day!

[henryford30]

Hello @ all
Thank you for the quick answers with my problem.


@ Flamingo 1931
I also suspect the Radiator, the cooling water was very rusty before flushing the radiator, now the water is clear.
I will measure the temperature difference above and below times with an infrared Thermometer


@wwirz
I think that the amount of leaked liquid is at least up to 1 gallon. so the cooler is only half full of water. the expansion of the water is not really that much?



@GARY WA
I have to check the ignition, but the engine runs very well and I notice exactly when the ignition timing fits best to the driven speed. I have also driven a few miles at the same speeds with different ignition settings. You can see that the pre-ignition is important for the cool engine running.



@ Dave in MN
That was just my first guess as well, I will run the test again. I could set each cylinder individually to TDC and use a spark plug adapter to pressurize the respective cylinder with compressed air.
Then there should be air bubbles in the radiator at some point!??


Thanks a lot
With best regards


Jose

[BTERRY29]

extend the overflow tube with a rubber hose and stick a roofing nail in it. this will help reduce the amount you loose out the tube.

[ronn]

Put vinegar in the radiator and let it sit for a few weeks..........

start and warm water for 10 minutes and shut off a couple of times a week.

[nkaminar]

You said there was foam. This can cause the coolant to be pushed out the overflow pipe. Do the IR temperature test but also drain the coolant and flush with clear water. Then fill with plain water and see if it still over heats. Sometimes a combination of antifreeze and other chemicals or just some kinds of antifreeze can cause foaming. If it still foams with clear water then there is some sort of gas entering the cooling system which is causing foam to form, most likely exhaust gas.

[TMarsh]

Had the same problem, foam, just changed antifreeze to green stuff, no additives. 50/50

[1crosscut]

Need to know what the actual temperature of the coolant is.
You can use the infrared thermometers but I personally prefer a dial meat probe type thermometer placed directly into the coolant at the radiator neck.

When you did the test for exhaust gasses did you use the liquid type and pull air from the radiator through the test liquid to see if it changed colors?

Another way to quickly check for a more sizeable head gasket leak is to remove the fan belt and run the engine and look for bubbles in the coolant.

[Richard Knight]

I have been thru a similar situation recently. There come a time when the cooling ability of the radiator is greatly diminished. Sometimes it is hard to realize that. That does not mean the radiator is not usable. A thoroughly cleaning may restore some cooling ability. I opened the top of my radiator like a tuna can and rodded out all the tubes. 5 were plugged. Two from repair work done in the past. I then used blue devil and let it set for a day, washed and flushed, soldered up some new leaks and put it back on the car. I may now have enough cooling capacity for back road driving

[Richard Knight]

If you decide to test for combustion gas again. If you don't get a color change take the tester to the tailpipe of a running car. If the fluid is good it will change color to yellow orange.