Adding a 4 blade instead of my 2 blade fan.

[old31]

Do you think a 4 blade will help?

I have a 6.0 head, larger intakes and a 4 speed. No t stat. I run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water, and always filled to just over the baffle.

New engine with 1,000 miles. Radiator was brought to a shop and it checked out to be good.

Most of the time around town and some highway I will be about 180. Outside temp 75. I am worried what will happen at an outside temp of 90.

The problem seems to be highway driving 55-60 MPH for a sustained time of about 20 minutes or more. The temp will slowly go to 200, then 220 and remain at 220 while i am at 55-60 mph.

It has never boiled over. One time it went to 225 and that is when I took the back roads home vs the highway.

What are your thoughts on a 4 blade, or any other ideas.

[Patrick L.]

Can't say whether one is better than the other. I've run a 4 blade on a stocker for 40 years with no issues.

[Tacoma Bob]

Many dispute the airflow between the two. Two blade seems to be the way to go from prior dialog here. I use the plastic fan with no issues. your results may very. LOL

[frank55a]

You did not say what year A you have or if you have some type if obstruction in front of the radiator. If you have a 28/29 they seem to run a little hotter than the 30/31 due to being a little less capacity. If you have a license plate of some other type of obstruction in front of the radiator this will reduce the air flow and also cause it to run hotter.

Water boils at 212 degrees at sea level and you say the temp goes to 220 and stays there, are you sure your instrument is calibrated and working properly.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by old31

Do you think a 4 blade will help?

I have a 6.0 head, larger intakes and a 4 speed. No t stat. I run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water, and always filled to just over the baffle.

New engine with 1,000 miles. Radiator was brought to a shop and it checked out to be good.

Most of the time around town and some highway I will be about 180. Outside temp 75. I am worried what will happen at an outside temp of 90.

The problem seems to be highway driving 55-60 MPH for a sustained time of about 20 minutes or more. The temp will slowly go to 200, then 220 and remain at 220 while i am at 55-60 mph.

It has never boiled over. One time it went to 225 and that is when I took the back roads home vs the highway.

What are your thoughts on a 4 blade, or any other ideas.

From reading what you say is happening, first thing that I have to ask, is are you loosing water and have to add water....at ANY time, and especially after a 220 event ?

[Big hammer]

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At 55-60 mph how much more air flow do you need! How was the radiator checked, a guess you have clogged tubes in the radiator. Also could be a timing issue.

[CHuDWah]

The fan is most efficient at low speed - at highway speed, it doesn't help much. If you're not losing coolant and are sure there is no obstruction to coolant circulation and airflow, I'd suspect the temp gauge.

[Marshall V. Daut]

I have 4 four-blade fans I removed from water pumps to replace with aluminum two-blade fans. I will sell each for $10 plus shipping.
Marshall

[Purdy Swoft]

The repro aluminum original look alike fan would be your best bet. More fan blades are not going to help cooling at driving speeds . The fan is only needed at idle and low speeds . I would get rid of the 50//50 antifreeze and only use antifreeze in winter . Antifreeze raises the boiling point to way above 212 degrees but doesn't cause an unpressurized cooling system to run cooler . I run tap water in mine for over 50 years with good results . Water cools way better than a fifty fifty antifreezw and water mix . If you are worried about rust, run a small bottle of water pump lubricant in the radiator . Water pump lubricant will lubricate the water pump and coat the system with enough soluable oil to help prevent rust. Ford recommended full advance at speed . Fifty five and sixty MPH is probably above what was considered speed in the model A day. Running at speed with the spark lever half way up the quadrant for much distance will cause over heating . One hundred and ninety drees was considered running in the danger zone for the model A . I prefer mine not to run much over one hundresd and sixty five degrees. I've had good luck with my model A running in this manner fore most of my life . Good luck with yours .

[CarlG]

Anything over 35mph, you don't even need a fan. Personally, I use the 6-blade plastic fan, just because the 4-blade fan I had lost a couple of it's rivets and took out a perfectly good radiator.

[PC/SR]

Agree a fan not needed at highway speeds, it actually gets in the way and robs HP. Retarded timing will also cause an engine to run hot. Check how much advance you use. Maybe try a little more. Check the head/block for rust.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

You can put some water wetter in, and will drop the temp a bit, but something is not right, and you’d be better off finding out what. It has to be your gauge is wrong,the radiator or block isn’t cleaned properly, timing is off, or you have an exhaust leak into the water jacket.

[GerryAllen]

I have just started to use Water Wetter with straight water in my radiator.
Should I be adding an additive for the water pump lubrication.?


Gerry, Birch Bay Wa

[Purdy Swoft]

Adding water pump lubricant will probably not run quiet as cool as pure water but it will remove any squeaks from a leakless water pump and oil fights rust . I used straight tap water in summer for many years with no ill effects that I was aware of. When I started rebuilding my water pumps as leak proof , the seals would sometimes squeak , similar to a fan belt squeak , so I tried the soluable oil and it worked to stop the squeak for me . They tell me the water pump lubricant is good for the cooling system . I ' found the lubricant at Auto zone for a little over five dollars , It is less in quantity than half of a pint. Any good parts house should have it .

[holdover]

here is where I would start. Drain the water/AF out of the system, if it is relatively new save it. Disconnect the upper and lower hose from the radiator, then with someone helping you block off the lower outlet with your hand and the top one also. Have your helper fill the radiator to full, them release your hand from the lower outlet. Should take about 4 seconds to empty, much longer then you have a clog problem. If it drains around 4 seconds move to the next item, such as a block water passage flush etc. I do not think a 4 blade fan is going to solve your problem. maybe try removing the license plate first to see if that helps, then a change of water pump. At road speed the fan is not much of a player, tell us what worked and good luck

[tinman080]

If your radiator tubes have a mineral buildup, and they probably do- a rodding out by a reputable radiator repair shop is your best bet. A radiator can flow water but not transfer heat due to calcium buildup coating the inner tubes. A vinegar fill and flush might help somewhat but then might not if the buildup is too far along.

[old31]

OK, it is agreed i will keep my new 2 blade aluminum fan.

Frank, it is a 31 with a plate in the front. I thought of removing the plate as a test. Before installing the gauge i tested it on the stove and it was good. That could have changed. I will test again.

Hard, I am not losing any water. Maybe 1 quart in a 100 mile run.

Big/PC, maybe its a timing issue. I run with a max of 21 degrees due to the 6.0 head. I read somewhere that any more than 21 will hurt the engine. No clue if that is true or not. I would love to hear more input on this subject of 21 degrees.

Purdy, I will change to water only. Way cheaper too. I am using a new leakproof water pump.

Hold, I will try your 4 second trick.

[HDowse]

I think Tinman080 has it figured out. The radiator may test well but if it hasn't been rodded out it does have mineral buildup. I tried all the suggestions above and finally bit the bullet and had a new radiator core installed. It solved everything so well that I eventually installed a thermostat to make sure the water temp was high enough on long drives.

[Mike]

Buy a Bergs radiator, you will not be sorry.
mike
bergs - 618-231-3507

[figment]

If you are running only clear water you should use a water pump lubricant and rust inhibiter otherwise you will have a lot of rust in your clooling system . Usually the rust inhibitor and water pump conditioner are in the same can . Norm