Mechanical Brakes adjustment

[Neshkoro]

I've been reading a lot about adjusting brakes on a Model A Ford and getting different opinions on the correct way to do the adjustment. Some say the adjusting procedure using the board with the 3 notches in it is the way to do it.
Others say to tighten the adjuster until you get equal drag on all the shoes and you're done.
What is the general consensus as to the best way to adjust the brakes.
Thoughts?
Thanks!

[Patrick L.]

This is like an oil thread. Oh what opinions you'll get.

But, the adjustment regardless should start the same. In the end, I'm an adjustment board kinda guy. They all lock up when I'm done.

[duke36]

You'll get many opinions. For later brakes :
1. Service Bulletins state to raise all wheels (axle supports) and turn adjusters.
2. Some owners say that raising rear wheels will make the rear rods too tight.(I've tried both methods, elevated on axles with wheels barely off ground,etc. and found no appreciable difference in rod freeplay takeup.) Adjust rod clevis freeplay with wheels on level surface seems to work well. The fronts like to be at the 15 degrees from vertical and pills may be needed at brake pin bottom but make sure the pin is also the correct length and stays firmly in the lower wedge. Sometimes the rollers don't roll and bind on the wedge.
3. Different seat arrangements require different pedal board lengths; the boards are helpful and easy to make.
4.After adjustments made, drive car, pull to roadside and feel drums or use temp. gun. to adjust uneven braking. Readjust 1 notch to start or as needed and test temps again.
May need to do this a couple of times.

[Mulletwagon]

Like the board. At least a good place to start.

[Mulletwagon]

Recommended adjusting inerval is about 500 miles.

[Bob Bidonde]

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This assumes the wheel brakes are in good serviceable condition. For the service brakes, there are 2 fundamental adjustments, (1) the broke rods and (2) the brake shoe to drum contact. (1) The rods should be set at the factory length of 51-7/16" to 51-1/2". Once the rods are set, there is no need to adjust them again. (2) Jack both front wheels off of the ground. Adjust the service brake wedge so that there is a slight and equal drag on each wheel. Do the same for the rear brakes. Done!
In closing, when you get different responses from posters, you need to do your own reading of the many many documents available to find out the authentic way of doing things. Posts on this forum by definition will get you many different views on things, some good and some not so good.

[nkaminar]

I think Bob has the correct method. Ford said not to adjust the rod lengths. They may have gotten changed over the life of the car so check to make sure that the 15 degree angle is maintained in front and that back ones have the correct angle (what is it?). Adjust for a slight drag then one click looser. Road test. If it pulls loosen the adjusters on that side one click and try again. Check for uniform temperature on the drums. If adjusted correctly the brakes should be firm and not mushy. If the pedal feels soft then not all brakes are working together.

Once the rods are set they should not be changed.

[jayvee34]

Just received new brakes from Randy Gross and am installing them now (stopped for lunch). I am going to use Bob Bidonde's adjustment method, then road test. Hope to be
able to road test this afternoon or in the morning.

I will start a new thread after the road test to report how they turned out.

[Neshkoro]

Thanks for the replies, folks! I guess I have some homework to do (reading upon brake adjustment). Seems the board method the preferred method.

[Jack Shaft]

That board is handy for kindling..

[Keith True]

I have made quite a bit of money from that board.From people that adjusted their brakes with it,and then having to pay me to adjust them properly.

[nkaminar]

First and foremost, the brakes must be in very good condition and working properly. If one or more brake is not working well then equal adjustment at all four corners will be impossible. Most people know this so I am sort of preaching to the choir.

[daren007]

Kindling...now that’s funny..and true.

[Model A Ron]

Paul Shinn did a good video on brake adjustment.

[jayvee34]

Tried Bob Bidonde's method. Didn't work to well. Could be me.
My next try will be the board method. I did watch Paul Shinn's video and
was impressed, and also watched another video doing the board method.
will post my results.

[old31]

Jay, how did you make out with the board method?

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good Morning...It seems to me that part of a good brake adjustmemt/service would include removing the drums and cleaning out all the brake dust and what knot that is in the brake...a good shot of brake cleaner/compressed air on the adjusting parts until everything is working smooth and there is NO dirt in any part of the brakes...Just cleaning the brakes can make one hell of a difference...then they might actually adjust correctly...Ernie in Arizona

[Stage1gs]

Once I adjusted my brakes for the 3rd time I took a slightly different approach.. I found a dirt road, got up to 20 mph and hit the brakes. The marks in the dirt will tell you which wheel are sliding (braking hard) and which ones are not. I adjusted the brakes so the skid marks from all 4 sliding wheels were about the same length in the sand, and then went for a ride on a paved road. Stops pretty good now.

[saxman657]

I'll be curious to see how Paul Shinn's method works for you. He seems to parallel the Red Book for the most part, which parallel's the Service Bulletin on page 202. Ford's bulletins show a desired end state of the rear brakes doing the brunt of the work, with front breaks assisting -- the stick will get you that. For those with the philosophy of not using the stick (other than for a fire starter) it seems the belief is to have all four brakes stopping equally. Different philosophies, but in the end -- both will stop your car.

[Curtis in MA]

I still use the stick, but have all four wheels the same.