Valve Tap Noise

[Bill in NJ]

I hear some of the valves making a tapping noise. Question is are they adjustable or not ? Thanks in advance for your replies !!

[JDupuis]

Hi Bill, you will have to remove the valve cover to check. The original tappets were not adjustable. You had add or subtract the length of the valves. If you are lucky you will see a nut on top of your tappets. These are adjustable. Hope this helps. Jeff

[WHN]

Did they just start making noise? How many miles are on the engine?

I know people will question my next comment, but here goes. Before you start taking things apart, try some Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas, change your oil using 20-50w HD, and STP in the oil. This has worked for us on a couple of cars. It really made a big difference.

[Bill in NJ]

I do not know what the real mileage is. It did not appear to be looking like a rebuilt motor when I bought it eight or nine years ago for $ 2500.00

[Mikeinnj]

Originally Posted by WHN

Did they just start making noise? How many miles are on the engine?

I know people will question my next comment, but here goes. Before you start taking things apart, try some Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas, change your oil using 20-50w HD, and STP in the oil. This has worked for us on a couple of cars. It really made a big difference.

Rather than invest in snake oil, pull the manifolds and the valve cover and check the clearances on all the valves. The proceedure is listed on this site as well as in many of the Model A publications available from the vendors.

[WHN]

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Bill, try the snake oil first. It will cost you less than twenty dollars. If it helps, and I think it could. You will save a lot of work. Good luck.

You could have a sticking valve, or some ware. Most likely both.

[Bill in NJ]

I looked a little deeper in the matter. I shorted out each cylinder one at a time and it did not make difference. Next I checked the timing gear and it had no missing teeth and no forward or rearward movement . Could it be a main crank bearing and if so what could I do to fix it ?? If not what do you think it could be ?? Thanks in advance!!

[Patrick L.]

If you killed each cylinder and the noise didn't change, it could still very well be a tappet noise. Removing the side cover is the only to see which tappets you have. If you have originals as long the lash is .015-.016" [and much not much bigger, Model B has .022" for the exhaust] then you'll be fine.
If you find a sticky one, just squirt the heck out of it and free it up.

[WHN]

Bill, I am not always right, but I have been working on these cars for 60 years.

If your engine has some mileage on it, 20-50w HD oil will help with that. The STP will give you some protection with the flat tapped ware. Also could cushion the lifters, helping with the ticking sound. HD oil will also help free thinks up. If you have been using non detergent oil, change the oil after 200 miles.

The Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas should help free up any sticky valves.

All of us old guys have are own ways. Model A's make all kinds of sounds from time to time. If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

[Bruce_MO]

MMO freed up a noisy lifter on my newly rebuilt engine. I first re-set the clearances and that improved but didn't eliminate the noise (the builder had values that were all over the place 0.012 to 0.018. He's a guy that many on Fordbarn like, and I am otherwise very happy with the engine and his service). It took a couple attempts of adding MMO to the gas, as well as spraying some in the carb with the engine running well above a fast idle. I put the MMO into a plastic spray bottle to get something close to a mist into the intake. Lots of smoke!

My noise was a lifter that was quiet for the first 10-20 seconds, then it would start tapping pretty good. And it usually, but not always went away after 3-4 minutes. Now all are nice and quiet all the time.

MMO worked for me.

[Bill in NJ]

OK I am still not sure where the noise is coming from.

Approx how long would it take to adjust the shims if need on the rods and main bearings taking into consideration that this is my first time ? I always had a running model a or two for the last 54 years and never did this ?

Again thanks in advance !!

I for got to mention that the timing gear looked and it has a two piece pully with no play in it. I also checked the flywheel and there is no play in it and the ring gear I repaced about 500 miles ago.

[Patrick L.]

When you checked the timing gears, how much lash did they have ?

Remove the timing pin, run the engine and carefully insert the timing pin in the hole while applying some pressure and see if the noise changes or goes away.

I didn't know you were looking for a noise, I thought your post said the noise was in the valve train.

If you decide to adjust the bearings expect it take most of the day for the first time.

There is a difference in valve and bearing noises.

I would suggest finding the noise before going too much farther. A cheap stethoscope would help.

[Bill in NJ]

I used that tool today and it sounds a little louder in the valve train area but could still here some noise in the crank shaft area.

I figure that if I checked the rods and mains first it would take a lot less time and I would not to happen about that part.

I figures the valve area would that a lot longer to check, order parts , take head off etc. If I drive it and it was just the valves making noise I could do it in the winter and not rush so much.

I take care of my 99 year old mother so time is at a premium.

Thanks for every bodies help in this.

What do you think ?

[RawhideKid]

Hey Bill, first off, you do NOT need to pull the head to check the valves, and IF they are in need of adjustment, then you MAY need to remove the head providing you don't have adjustable lifters.

To check the mains and rods takes a bit longer and more work, and you need to pull the valve cover to get to the center main bolts to check that, so may as well check the valves first.

[PC/SR]

Yo Bill: It is quicker to check the lifters than the bearings. Take off the side cover and see if they are adjustable, and at the same time get your feeler gauge out and check the lash. Many posts on how to do that. Trust me, easier to take off the manifolds than drop the pan and measure bearing clearance. And if time is a premium for your mother, drive it with the tap. No great damage will happen if it is tappets and if it is the bearings so what. Bottom line, it is a hobby. Family is first.

[supergnat]

Hi Bill, I would try the easiest suggestions first. I have plenty of Marvel and also Seafoam. I can bring them over and we can see it they make a difference. You know how to contact me. Supergnat

[Bill in NJ]

I can't find 20-50 high detergent oil any where ? Can I just use regular 20-50 weight oil ?

[mantta]

I don't think they make 20-50 non detergent oil. I am sure all multi weight oil is detergent oil.

[WHN]

Bill, Walmart has 20-50w HD, their brand and others. A lot of motorcycles use it also.

Find it, I think you will be very happy with results. I agree that if it says 20-50 it is HD oil.

[Mike]

Bill call me and we can set up a time to bring it to my shop and get it fixed.
Mike