Gas drip

[pjdeb]

I bought a new gas tank valve from one of the suppliers. "Guaranteed not to leak." Leaked like a sieve.

Put the older one back in. Drips once in about two minutes. I am thinking about putting a second valve in the line under the hood. I store the car for a few months each year. Anyone has suggestions on a valve?

With the present set up, if I do not run the carb dry, it does not seem to leak. If I run it dry when shutting it off, it eventually leaks.

Thanks for comments.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by pjdeb

I bought a new gas tank valve from one of the suppliers. "Guaranteed not to leak." Leaked like a sieve.

Put the older one back in. Drips once in about two minutes. I am thinking about putting a second valve in the line under the hood. I store the car for a few months each year. Anyone has suggestions on a valve?

With the present set up, if I do not run the carb dry, it does not seem to leak. If I run it dry when shutting it off, it eventually leaks.

Thanks for comments.

I have had nothing but grief from the repro valves. There is not any rust in my tank and I have a 'pencil filter' in the valve.They still leak after awhile even tho they are "Guaranteed not to leak".

I finally put in a second valve and have not looked back since.



Bratton's sell something similar. https://www.brattons.com/30-31GAS-LI...uctinfo/13350/

[nkaminar]

Drain the tank. Take the valve apart and smear some EZ Turn on the turning part. Re assemble the valve. You will be amazed at how easy it turns and it will not leak. The valve will last a lot longer. In a few years do it again as part of your maintenance program.

See https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ezturnlube.php

[Bill Cilker]

I put a compression fitting shut off valve on the fuel line from the fuel filter to the carburetor. Mount the valve with the handle toward the firewall. That is so you will not hit it with an appendage, it can hurt.

[SDJason]

When faced with the same issue, I used a 1/4-turn ball valve from Home Depot; been working great for a few years now. This replaced a previous solenoid-operated cutoff installed by a previous owner - when those fail, they default to off (I found that out the hard way one day while taking a drive).

I decided to put it PAST the sediment bowl, on the assumption that any fuel getting to it will be filtered, and thus less likely to contain particles/contaminants that could cause damage (notice also that I put in a Wix #33039 filter in the sediment bowl).

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by nkaminar

Drain the tank. Take the valve apart and smear some EZ Turn on the turning part. Re assemble the valve. You will be amazed at how easy it turns and it will not leak. The valve will last a lot longer. In a few years do it again as part of your maintenance program.

See https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ezturnlube.php

EZ Turn is great stuff, I use it on the throttle shafts on Marvel carburetors when they are a little loose. But I find on the S/O valves they start to weep after a while. That is why I added the ball valve. (post #2).

[McMimmcs]

Did you return the faulty valve to the supplier ? Wayne

[31a]

Renners corner builds a lot of after market shutoff valves, I have had a lot of success with their p[roducts.

[ronn]

I would ask supplier for a replacement.

[Robert/Texas]

I bought a repair kit for the fuel valve on my early ’28 OCPU from Snyder’s some decades ago. It had an original valve which was frozen stiff. I followed the directions and used EZ Turn like nkaminar suggested and it is still easy to turn and has never leaked. My ’28 roadster came with a repro valve which was hard to turn and leaked. I replaced that with several other repros but they never lasted very long until they started leaking. The last one I bought from Snyder’s about 2 years ago still turns easily and doesn’t leak. Maybe I'm just lucky now.

[Joe K]

Compression fitting accessory valves run the gamut. Swagelock is probably the best (nuclear qualified) but pricey. Go to HD or Lowes and you're pretty much guaranteed run of China's mill.

I like the idea of a "quarter turn" ball type valve rather than a needle or T-valve.

Joe K

[rotorwrench]

The first thing I visualized from this was a leak to the outside of the valve so it took a while to get that is was leaking past the valve down into the line was the issue here.

The EZ-Turn prevents galling from metal on metal parts like the old valve designs and it can fill in imperfections in the seating surfaces. The other problem is corrosion from inside the tank. Even with a pencil filter in there, some of the fine stuff will get by. Debris like this can scratch the valve faces and start a leak over time.

[cr1248]

I’ve been using these for years on all my Model A,s and not a drop gets past this valve…others will say that it’s a bandaid but it definitely works for me. I get mine from Ace Hardware….

[pjdeb]

yes

[pjdeb]

Asked for refund. No confidence another one will be any better.

[steve smith]

Originally Posted by pjdeb

I bought a new gas tank valve from one of the suppliers. "Guaranteed not to leak." Leaked like a sieve.

Put the older one back in. Drips once in about two minutes. I am thinking about putting a second valve in the line under the hood. I store the car for a few months each year. Anyone has suggestions on a valve?

With the present set up, if I do not run the carb dry, it does not seem to leak. If I run it dry when shutting it off, it eventually leaks.

Thanks for comments.

Replace the inside gas shut off with a modern 1/4 turn ball valve is all that is needed .they seal excellent and No more smelly gas in the cab