The Ford Barn

RDVAARK · 10-09-2022, 08:54 AM

Without the float on the wire, heat the last 1/2" or so of the wire to red hot in a flame, air cool. This will anneal it to allow end of the wire to be flattened against a steel edge with a hammer or another edged object (like a dull chisel).

Short leg of wire can be heated and cooled at the right angle and straightened. Position float as desired. Mark, heat and anneal wire and bend as appropriate, then treat tip as in paragraph above.

Length of arm will be shortened, probably about half an inch. Calibrate to please yourself. Level wire reads 1/2 tank. Or, wire fully down reads as empty as you want it,
I prefer to be accurate at the 1/2 mark, leaving a slight reserve (experience teaches me how far I can go at empty).

1/2" wire length decrease decreases vertical float travel (3.14x D=C, less actually). Tank can be more full, or more empty at ends of float travel, but at 1/2 full, float travel most accurately reflects fuel level. In my 28 tudor, 1" level change is close to a gallon at 1`/2"gauge.

Attempt at mild humor: Details such as exact red color of annealing wire, flame color and fuel mixture. cooling time in room temp still air, and exact bend radii of wire, will be given in my next rivet counting report. YMMV.

Oh yes, do not touch hot wire with hands or float.

JayJay · 10-09-2022, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RDVAARK

I prefer to be accurate at the 1/2 mark, leaving a slight reserve (experience teaches me how far I can go at empty).

I set mine so that with one gallon left in the tank the float is bouncing on E. I find that it's pretty much accurate above that. At 1/4 there's a bit less than 3 gallons, that's when I start looking seriously for a gas station. On our club tours we plan on fuel stops every 100 miles or so - optional bladder breaks at half that distance.

JayJay

whiskeyb · 10-09-2022, 01:02 PM

I shortened the cork float with hack saw. Made a very thin washer using a piece of model a spark plug wire, punched a hole in it with a finish nail, and flattened the end of the wire.

10-09-2022, 08:54 AM	#1
RDVAARK Member Join Date: Jul 2022 Location: Brookfield Ct. Posts: 61	Re: Gas Gauge float Without the float on the wire, heat the last 1/2" or so of the wire to red hot in a flame, air cool. This will anneal it to allow end of the wire to be flattened against a steel edge with a hammer or another edged object (like a dull chisel). Short leg of wire can be heated and cooled at the right angle and straightened. Position float as desired. Mark, heat and anneal wire and bend as appropriate, then treat tip as in paragraph above. Length of arm will be shortened, probably about half an inch. Calibrate to please yourself. Level wire reads 1/2 tank. Or, wire fully down reads as empty as you want it, I prefer to be accurate at the 1/2 mark, leaving a slight reserve (experience teaches me how far I can go at empty). 1/2" wire length decrease decreases vertical float travel (3.14x D=C, less actually). Tank can be more full, or more empty at ends of float travel, but at 1/2 full, float travel most accurately reflects fuel level. In my 28 tudor, 1" level change is close to a gallon at 1`/2"gauge. Attempt at mild humor: Details such as exact red color of annealing wire, flame color and fuel mixture. cooling time in room temp still air, and exact bend radii of wire, will be given in my next rivet counting report. YMMV. Oh yes, do not touch hot wire with hands or float.

10-09-2022, 01:02 PM	#3
whiskeyb Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 2	Re: Gas Gauge float I shortened the cork float with hack saw. Made a very thin washer using a piece of model a spark plug wire, punched a hole in it with a finish nail, and flattened the end of the wire.