Flywheel weight??

[Terry,NJ]

I think we had this discussion before, but I'll reiterate my point again. Ligthter FWs do not add HP, but they free it up and it goes to the wheels instead of being lost. If that is not clear, imagine a 126 lb FW, or a 189 lb FW. How much or the power of each stroke would be left to accelerate. Sure, it's great for a constant speed engine or application. But not in a car.
Terry

Originally Posted by Pete

"The original flywheel weight was about 62 pounds so how much can you lighten the flywheel and still have a smooth running engine?"

On the last 3 engines I built I used a modified 350 Chev aluminum flywheel that weighed 12 lb. I also used a rebuilt 9 inch Long type ALUMINUM clutch cover. I like the Long clutch with the centrifugal weights because it takes less pedal pressure to operate.
Two of these engines were mild street engines and they would idle smooth at 500 and lug smooth right off idle.
Light flywheels do not add horsepower but they sure add driving pleasure.

[Juggler]

Thanks Bill and Derek - if I find that article I'll report back

Regards

Juggs

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

When I was a kid, I had a Weber aluminum flywheel with a steel plate and steel ring gear. It weighed 12 lbs. The clutch cover/pressure plate added more. The engine ran great.
The engine was 213 cu in, Harry Weber camshaft, Burns dual manifold with 2 81's and split exhaust manifolds.
Great memories

Was this the V8 flywhl, and if so, how did you deal with the STARTER MODS that are talked about as necessary..back then
213 cu in..hm, sounds like pretty healthy build do you have pics ?

[hardtimes]

Hey TerryNJ,
'free up HP' , is the most succinct and accurate explaination, for what 'lightened wt' flywhl does, IMO. I have never seen any reasonable stmt of how lightening the flywhl ..has negative result (s), other than 'if ain't stock'.

[hardtimes]

Hey Arlyn,
'how much'.
Well, I think that Pete has lightened the least I've EVER seen run.
I'll show you some of what I'm working with , with wts recorded on equipment.

One thing that has not been mentioned here , other than great comment by Terry,i.e.- frees up HP, is that ALL that removed weight from flywhl/pressure plate and disc...IS REMOVED from the downward force on the rear main bearing. IMO, wt removal to get this benefit..alone..is worth the cost/effort.

[hardtimes]

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Hey Colin,
Since you've used and are using TWO alum flywhls, maybe you can help me out here, as I'm going to use the one pictured below.
My question is: Are you 'staking' the ring gear onto the alum flywhl or WHAT process are you using to ensure that flywhl stays put !
The alum flywhl that you are looking at, has new ring gear on it. This ring gear seems to move quite easily...compared to heat fit iron to iron gear. Any recommendations to avoid calamity appreciated,eh

[Purdy Swoft]

I remember Marco mentioning lugging around corners in high gear with full advance being a bad thing and I agree that it is. Higher gear ratios only make matters worse in such situations. I agree that driving style or skills make all of the difference. I only run 3.78 gears in mine and the lower ratio lessens the risk of lugging. Corner turns can be made in high gear if enough speed is maintained to avoid lugging. I can see no advantage for a heavy flywheel in this day and time. We don't need to creep over sand beds and rutted trails like many had to do in olden times. That said my experience is that a light flywheel will give the most noticable increase in accelleration and driveability next to a higher compression head .