1948 59 A-B fuel pump pushrod-which one to buy?

[PGBuick]

I acquired a newly built 1948 59 A-B V8. I have the fuel pump stand with pump attached (came to me off the motor) but there does not appear to be a push rod for the pump. The intake is a stock cast iron single carb for now. How do I know which length pushrod to buy? They appear to be readily available from several sources, including Speedway. Brief research indicates the 8 7/8 would work. Is there any way to confirm this? Is there any adjustment needed on this pushrod when installed? Is it just the pushrod that goes into the hole, or are other parts needed such as a retainer, or other pieces? Thanks all. Pat

[deuce_roadster]

Does that car have an electric fuel pump? The stand looks like a earlier one to me with a shortened tin part, was motor running with that plate covering the hole? Not sure what that does for the rod length needed.

[cas3]

I agree, that stand looks like an early version. My guess is the height for the pump is still the same.

[PGBuick]

The motor is new and was never put in a car after it was built. The fuel pump setup came with it in a box, also new / rebuilt. No pushrod.

[42merc]

Use the 8 7/8 rod with the cast iron intake.

[Brian]

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the other missing part is the baffle tube

[deuce_roadster]

My understanding is that the intake is what determines length of pump rod, Cast iron is 1 length aluminum another and that they are about 1 inch different. I forget which is which but I have NOS ones in boxes that say. The height difference must be built into the manifold where the stand bolts. 42Merc probably has it right.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

My understanding is that the intake is what determines length of pump rod, Cast iron is 1 length aluminum another and that they are about 1 inch different. I forget which is which but I have NOS ones in boxes that say. The height difference must be built into the manifold where the stand bolts. 42Merc probably has it right.

Yes, the difference is in the location of the fuel-pump mounting surface . . . some are higher, some are lower (as noted, about an inch). I've seen differences between manufacturers as well. 42 Merc has it right on the length for your current setup.

[Bored&Stroked]

You should buy and install the oil-breather baffle tube that goes down into the block and rests on the fuel-pump stand surface. Without it, the crankcase breathing system will not work as it is supposed to. Mac VanPelt and others can probably supply you with one.

[PGBuick]

What does the oil-breather baffle tube look like?
Thanks!

[PGBuick]

It appears the baffle tube is already on my pump stand - see pic- am I missing something? Thanks

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by PGBuick

It appears the baffle tube is already on my pump stand - see pic- am I missing something? Thanks

That's not the baffle tube the guys are telling you that you need. The baffle tube is approximately 1-3/4" to 2" in diameter, with a series of staggered baffles on the inner diameter. There are two different overall length baffle tubes used, and the length you need is determined by which intake manifold you have. This tube, and the fuel pump stand with air intake filter on top, are all necessary to have in place if you want the engine ventilation system to work properly. If you want to eliminate the mechanical fuel pump, use a block off plate where the fuel pump is normally mounted instead of a block off plate on the intake manifold as shown in your pictures.
If you eliminate the mechanical fuel pump, I would suggest eliminating the FP push rod in a way that does not affect oil pressure. Leaving the push rod in w/o the mechanical FP could create what may sound like a rod bearing knock. Don't ask me how I know this.

PS....just because you've aquired a newly rebuilt engine, don't assume the builder did everything correctly for you to just drop that engine in your application.

[PGBuick]

Thank you, John, for clarifying. I appreciate it. Does anyone have a photo of the baffle tube? Are they reproduced? Would one from a '36 21 stud be the same as the '48 motor?

John, the motor came from H&H and I have high confidence in the build or I would not have purchased it.