Disabled Speedometer Cable 1950 Ford

[Pat/Ohio]

Hello 'Barners,

I am on tour with the Early Ford V-8 Club in Rapid City, SD. Drove from Wilmington, OH to Rapid City (1200 miles) with no problems at all. On the way up to Lead, SD my speedometer stopped working. I did notice that the needle jumped once about 10 miles prior to it stopping all together. I am thinking that the cable snapped. This is a 1950 Ford Tudor Custom, V-8 manual trans. with overdrive.

My car is parked inside a garage at the present time. I don't have a floor jack, but I do have a bottle jack and 4" x 4" lumber at my access. I am thinking that the first thing to do would be to remove the speedometer cable at the speedometer. Pull on the cable to see if it is broken in half. I am unclear what the transmission end looks like. I went to the Dennis Carpenter website and it appears that the trans end doesn't have a threaded cap like the earlier Ford cables. Would it be easier to repair the cable or replace housing and all? I can have a new cable w/housing shipped 2-day air probably. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Pat

[D. Jones]

Not a tough job to do.

I would go with your first thought take the speedometer end off and pull the cable out to see if is broken. If so you'll need to get under the car and take the other end loose to remove the broken part. Then check with a local parts house to see if they have a replacement cable in stock. Most replacement cables will be generic and will have to be cut to length and the speedometer end crimped on. Lube it up good and put it back from the top. Be sure to check the sheath to make sure it isn't badly kinked, worn through or broken. The transmission end should be square to fit in the gear.

[rotorwrench]

It likely has a single nut holding a fitting that holds the gear inside the transmission. Once the nut is removed you have to pull the fitting out. It may have an o-ring on the gear fitting so you may have to tug a bit to get it out.

[fordor41]

Originally Posted by D. Jones

Not a tough job to do.

I would go with your first thought take the speedometer end off and pull the cable out to see if is broken. If so you'll need to get under the car and take the other end loose to remove the broken part. Then check with a local parts house to see if they have a replacement cable in stock. Most replacement cables will be generic and will have to be cut to length and the speedometer end crimped on. Lube it up good and put it back from the top. Be sure to check the sheath to make sure it isn't badly kinked, worn through or broken. The transmission end should be square to fit in the gear.

I've used the auto store generic cables and after crimping the end on I got a bit of needle "dance". After a couple tries I laid the cable out straight, shimmed the end straight and epoxied the end on the cable. End of needle "dance". Also lub the speedo bearing on the back of the speedo.

[Pat/Ohio]

Thanks Gentlemen!

I pulled the cable out from the top....indeed the cable is now two pieces! Broken near the trans end. I will endeavor to locate a replacement cable before heading back to Ohio. Having a great time here on the Black Hills Tour. About 60 early Fords.

Pat

[rick r]

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How about a G P S as a temporary spedo???

[JSeery]

That was also going to be my suggestion, if you can get a gps to keep a battery charge long enough to work for you.

[Pat/Ohio]

I wish had I brought my gps but don't have a means of keeping it charged on tour. Will be working on that. In the meantime, I am using my second hand on my watch and the mile markers along the highway. Keeps me dialed in at 60 mph!

Pat

[vilanar]

I can recommend CoPilot app. if you have smart phone . Works perfect.

[Bill S]

Plug it in to the lighter. Most GPS voltage are reduced. If car is 6 volt you may be OK. Check with the maker of the GPS.

[supereal]

It is always a good idea to replace the cable and sheath as a unit. The correct number for your '50 is A9A-17250, $22 from C&G (800/266-0470) Also get the O ring, 72115, $1.75. The new assembly and inner cable must be lubed before installation. The lube we use is B5A-19581,$5.00 also at C&G. If you want just the inner cable, it is B9AZ-17262-A. It is 129", $12. Most original sheaths have rust, dirt, and kinks that can ruin a new inner cable.

[Pat/Ohio]

Supereal....That is exactly what I did! I ordered the complete cable with O-ring & lube from C & G. I should have it by Thursday! Thanks, Pat