UPDATE - VIDEO of Horn Rod/Light Switch

[sconnors]

Fellas,
I shot some video this morning and hopefully you guys can take a look and let me know your thoughts on this problem I'm trying to tackle.
http://youtu.be/9xOeMRTM-xw




Well after spending two entire days on my 1930 CCPU, I'm frustrated, pissed off and no further along than when I started! Just to recap the things I've done:

1. Pulled the steering column out of the truck
2. Replaced the wiring harness
3. Replaced the horn rod/light switch, brass bushing, spider, spring, and light switch housing
4. Put everything back together and light switch STILL moves when you turn the wheel despite sanding down the top of the horn rod, and filing inside the steering column.
   
5. The lights only work at low and high beam, and the light switch body moves when I turn the light switch on the wheel.
6. Lights work on low and high beam, but no parking lights even though the switch moves to the seven o'clock position. But obviously the minute you turn the wheel the lights go on and off!

I'm beyond frustrated and angry so I had to quit for the day. I do not look forward to pulling all that stuff apart again! Does ANYONE have ANY thoughts/input on things I could've missed or should've done that I didn't?


Anyone wanna buy a nice 1930 Model A pickup?
Thanks for any help anyone can throw my way.













Putting in my new horn rod light switch today. I have the brass ferrule installed that the rod slips but the fit seems awful tight. My question is, should the light switch/horn rod turn when the steering wheel turns?

I researched some posts and saw some people saying they had to sand the rod down. Wondering if that's what I have to do because when it's installed the switch turns when the steering wheel turns.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott

[frank mcdaniels]

Sconners, First of all, no the switch should not turn with the wheel. The lights will turn on and off as you drive (which is not much fun). There are some things you can try. Making the receiving dimples in the switch bottom deeper, by drilling the indent a little deeper is one. Honing the bushing at the top under the wheel can sometimes help. Also lubing the horn rod can help. I had this problem with my roadster and did all these things.After I drove it for quite awhile it finally stopped doing this. Good luck and hope this helps, Frank

[reek29]

Depends on why the rod is turning. Could be a bind between the rod and the shaft. You can probably tell by rotating the light switch rod before installing the switch-it should turn loose and free. If it doesn't, you can sometimes us steel wool to dress it up a bit. Make sure your rod is STRAIGHT.
It may also be that your horn button housing is touching the top of the steering wheel.
This can sometimes happen with a repop horn rod, dirt between the housing and wheel or sometimes with a wheel that is not tightened down enough. In any case, all are pretty easy fixes. Good luck!

[sconnors]

The rod is a new one I ordered from Snyder's. I ordered a new bushing but that is way too tight even after sanding the top of the rod as others have suggested. So I put the old bushing back in. I DO NOT have the spider, etc on yet, I'm simply bolting the wheel back in place and turning the steering wheel and the light switch is turning. I wanted to test everything BEFORE putting everything together and having to take it all apart again!

One thing I did notice is that when I pull the horn rod up slightly and rotate the steering wheel the bushing is turning also. Is this normal?

Stumped and at a standstill and not sure where to go next. I don't want to put everything together and have to take it all apart again.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Feeling frustrated...

[sconnors]

I've attached some pictures of the hole in the column without the brass bushing, with the brass bushing and with the brass bushing half way in to show the fit/condition of my steering column.

Spoke with Don at Snyder's and he says the bushing should turn when the wheel turns and the rod should "free float" in the bushing and NOT turn when the wheel turns.

He suggested taking a drill or a file to the column (which I've heard people on here say not to do because it's so thin) in case there are burrs (that's why I attached the pictures).

To recap: I have a new horn rod/light switch, new bushing, and for some reason the switch is still turning when the wheel is turned. Before I file or drill anything and do damage I wanted to check with you guys and get your thoughts/opinions.

I've read suggestions about not putting the bushing in, about using a fine washer, about sanding and filing the rod (which I've done) and am my wits end with this problem.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
Scott

[sconnors]

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Here's a link to a video that I shot showing the problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJml...ature=youtu.be

[sconnors]

Well after spending two entire days on my 1930 CCPU, I'm frustrated, pissed off and no further along than when I started! Just to recap the things I've done:

1. Pulled the steering column out of the truck
2. Replaced the wiring harness
3. Replaced the horn rod/light switch, brass bushing, spider, spring, and light switch housing
4. Put everything back together and light switch STILL moves when you turn the wheel despite sanding down the top of the horn rod, and filing inside the steering column.
   
5. The lights only work at low and high beam, and the light switch body moves when I turn the light switch on the wheel.
6. Lights work on low and high beam, but no parking lights even though the switch moves to the seven o'clock position. But obviously the minute you turn the wheel the lights go on and off!

I'm beyond frustrated and angry so I had to quit for the day. I do not look forward to pulling all that stuff apart again! Does ANYONE have ANY thoughts/input on things I could've missed or should've done that I didn't?


Anyone wanna buy a nice 1930 Model A pickup?
Thanks for any help anyone can throw my way.

[ericr]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Well after spending two entire days on my 1930 CCPU, I'm frustrated, pissed off and no further along than when I started! Just to recap the things I've done:

1. Pulled the steering column out of the truck
2. Replaced the wiring harness
3. Replaced the horn rod/light switch, brass bushing, spider, spring, and light switch housing
4. Put everything back together and light switch STILL moves when you turn the wheel despite sanding down the top of the horn rod, and filing inside the steering column.
   
5. The lights only work at low and high beam, and the light switch body moves when I turn the light switch on the wheel.
6. Lights work on low and high beam, but no parking lights even though the switch moves to the seven o'clock position. But obviously the minute you turn the wheel the lights go on and off!

I'm beyond frustrated and angry so I had to quit for the day. I do not look forward to pulling all that stuff apart again! Does ANYONE have ANY thoughts/input on things I could've missed or should've done that I didn't?


Anyone wanna buy a nice 1930 Model A pickup?
Thanks for any help anyone can throw my way.

as regards the light sequence being out of whack, and the housing rotating improperly, are you sure the spider ears are being inserted into the correct slots in the switch? Looking at the switch can be confusing as to where the ears drop in.

as regards the light switch turning as the wheel turns, have you thought of spotting strategic places where the switch sits with Prussian Blue or some other means of detecting binding?

[harleytoprock]

Here's what helped me with the same problem. I removed the steering wheel nut and faced it on lathe and polished the surface that makes contact with the light rod knob. My nut was rusty and was making too much friction with the knob. The repro copper bushings are very soft and are distorted in shaped making the rod fit tighter. With my bushing in the column, I put into the bushing a 3/8" piece of round stock and tapped on the stock on the side so that it would seat the bushing against the sides. I tapped in all different directions. On the rod, I assembly with oil not a heavy sticky grease.

[Brentwood Bob]

I am wondering why the top of the retaining nut is irregular? try a flat washer to eliminate the bottom side of the light switch rod from direct contact with this grooving. a little silicone grease here wouldn't hurt either.
Bob

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

Here's what helped me with the same problem. I removed the steering wheel nut and faced it on lathe and polished the surface that makes contact with the light rod knob. My nut was rusty and was making too much friction with the knob. The repro copper bushings are very soft and are distorted in shaped making the rod fit tighter. With my bushing in the column, I put into the bushing a 3/8" piece of round stock and tapped on the stock on the side so that it would seat the bushing against the sides. I tapped in all different directions. On the rod, I assembly with oil not a heavy sticky grease.

As you can see by the pictures it looks as if someone has done that before me. The steering wheel nut looks like it has been ground down, but I will try that. I also used my old bushing as the new one was much too tight.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

I am wondering why the top of the retaining nut is irregular? try a flat washer to eliminate the bottom side of the light switch rod from direct contact with this grooving. a little silicone grease here wouldn't hurt either.
Bob

Picked these up today after reading some threads. The nylon one is a bit thicker than the stainless one. Which would you suggest?

[Brentwood Bob]

what harley said. my ESP is rusty.
bob

[Brentwood Bob]

nylon

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Well after spending two entire days on my 1930 CCPU, I'm frustrated, pissed off and no further along than when I started! Just to recap the things I've done:

1. Pulled the steering column out of the truck
2. Replaced the wiring harness
3. Replaced the horn rod/light switch, brass bushing, spider, spring, and light switch housing
4. Put everything back together and light switch STILL moves when you turn the wheel despite sanding down the top of the horn rod, and filing inside the steering column.
   
5. The lights only work at low and high beam, and the light switch body moves when I turn the light switch on the wheel.
6. Lights work on low and high beam, but no parking lights even though the switch moves to the seven o'clock position. But obviously the minute you turn the wheel the lights go on and off!

I'm beyond frustrated and angry so I had to quit for the day. I do not look forward to pulling all that stuff apart again! Does ANYONE have ANY thoughts/input on things I could've missed or should've done that I didn't?


Anyone wanna buy a nice 1930 Model A pickup?
Thanks for any help anyone can throw my way.

If the tab on the upper part of the switch is in the slot at the bottom of the
steering column I don't see how it can rotate. In the video it looks like the
light switch handle and horn button are sitting a little to far down in the
steering wheel, you need to shim it up with a washer like I think was suggested
earlier.

Bob

[Larry Seemann]

Did you clean the inside of the steering shaft? It's like cleaning a gun barrel. I can't tell from what I've read in your post if the rod is sticking to the shaft, but if that's the problem cleaning may be in order. Someone in the past may have lubed it and now the old lube is like glue causing the two to stick together. I've seen that situation.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Larry Seemann

Did you clean the inside of the steering shaft? It's like cleaning a gun barrel. I can't tell from what I've read in your post if the rod is sticking to the shaft, but if that's the problem cleaning may be in order. Someone in the past may have lubed it and now the old lube is like glue causing the two to stick together. I've seen that situation.

I did clean the inside of the steering wheel with a rod and rag

[Mitch//pa]

I just went through this
Before messing with the light switch get the horn rod to drop into the collumn with bushing installed without any tightness. The repo rods are thicker as mentioned at the top. Once you get that fit correct move to the light switch

[ericr]

have you tried turning the steering wheel while pulling out the light switch to various lengths, assuming that it will stay in position by itself?

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

I just went through this
Before messing with the light switch get the horn rod to drop into the collumn with bushing installed without any tightness. The repo rods are thicker as mentioned at the top. Once you get that fit correct move to the light switch

Mitch,
I sanded down the top of the rod right below the light switch pretty good. Did you use a washer on yours? What else did you do to get the horn rod to not turn when the wheel turns?