Distributor problem

[Brian T]

I just just replaced my distributor on my AA with one that I have rebuilt, the one I removed has the D shape and relief in the housing, I would not have noticed it unless it was discussed here, picture attached.
Brian T.

[Patrick L.]

I'm also wondering how many might apply grease to a bushing or forget to 'load' an oilite bushing..

[Mitch]

Is this the same Bob who had issues with the distributor drive gear from the engine rebuilder???

[dnkcurtis]

Tom I would be concerned that the packed grease in the housing, may block the oil passage to the lower bushing. As the distributer heats up the grease could bake and harden in the passage. Just a thought. DRC

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by dnkcurtis

Tom I would be concerned that the packed grease in the housing, may block the oil passage to the lower bushing. As the distributer heats up the grease could bake and harden in the passage. Just a thought. DRC

Wow, we are just now answering advice given from over 2½ years ago!!

As to the grease hardening, wouldn't this all hinge on someone using a really sub-quality grease? Most fresh greases would become more viscous as the heat was became more prevalent. If the distributor was lubricated on a routine schedule, it will be fine IMO, --especially since there is not very much load on that bushing. If you are still in disagreement with me, think about how the upper bushing was originally lubricated.

.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by dnkcurtis

Tom I would be concerned that the packed grease in the housing, may block the oil passage to the lower bushing. As the distributer heats up the grease could bake and harden in the passage. Just a thought. DRC

It was almost 20 years ago that I did the distributor in my car and it's still going strong. I oil it at least every 500 miles.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here are some pictures of the jig I made to support the distributor by the shaft area, so you don't put pressure against the upper body and snap it off the lower shaft. I took an old one piece shaft and slotted the end as pictured, then spread the end a little to form a slight bell shape. This is then inserted through the bushings until it spreads past one bushing. I can now support the bottom of the housing and drive out that one bushing. I can then use the other shorter modified shaft to drive out the other bushing from the opposite direction. This is much easier and safer for the distributor body than trying to push both bushings out at the same time.

The aluminum plate I sandwiched between the wood blocks forms the support plate and it has a hole large enough for the bushings to pass through.

[CarlG]

Tom must have a shed just for all his special made tools!

[Doug in NJ]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Ford: Variant and anomalous parts are Job #1!

Had three or four crusty Model A distributors on the workbench for general cleanup last night and found that one, manufactured by Standard and a late type with the braced clip brackets, had the Model B type vent relief as described below. Never saw one like that before.

How do you identify a Standard-made distributor?

Thanks,
Doug

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Tom must have a shed just for all his special made tools!

yep Carl and did you know he rents them out...

[George Miller]

There is one other thing, that will cause your problem. Some one might have tightened the screw that holds the dist in real tight. If so it will distort the housing and make the shaft turn real hard. As far as the upper bushing, I have never had a problem with it wearing out.Have been driving Model A's since 1970.I think you get oily air from the crank case pressure that oil's it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's 3 more pictures of a distributor I restored about 15 years ago. Notice that I like to grease all moving parts, and I also grease the plates to hold off rust. The 3 tabs and the slot they fit into are moving parts and should be greased. The same goes for the center hole and spring. The top plate ball will also get greased before the advance rod is snapped on.

The second picture shows the fine wire I installed (163 strands) and how the terminal should be bent and positioned.

The third picture shows how I balanced the rotor to help prolong the bushing life, the same way crankshaft counterweights prolong the main bearings. The rotor seems like a small lightweight part, but if you mount the shaft in an electric drill and spin it with the stock rotor at 1000 RPM, you will see how much force the unbalanced rotor puts on the bushings.