> Radiator Question for Florida Resident <

[Calahan]

Hi Guys, Its time to replace my original radiator for my 1931 coupe. Still running the original engine with a 2-blade fan.
I am interested in the BrassWork D30-31FT with 6FPI, It looks nice and I would like to keep the dimple original look.

Question is, can the 6FPI withstand the heat in Florida ?

Thanks Calahan

[J Franklin]

These are some of the best made radiators around, if they won't do the job what will?

[Mike V. Florida]

Before my fan wiped it out my stock '31 radiator it worked fine in the south florida heat with water and rust preventive.

[Paul from Maine]

Installed a Brassworks radiator last summer in dog days of August. Had to put in a thermostat to get the engine up to a cool normal temp. Without the stat, the higest temp I could get was 135.

[Calahan]

Originally Posted by Paul from Maine

Installed a Brassworks radiator last summer in dog days of August. Had to put in a thermostat to get the engine up to a cool normal temp. Without the stat, the higest temp I could get was 135.

Hello Paul, Did you install the 6 fins per inch or the 10 fins per inch radiator?

[rdscouple]

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I'd rather run the 10 fins per inch with a thermostat than worry about the 6 fins doing an adaquate job.

[TomW]

My 6 FPI radiator (which has been in the truck for over 45 years that I know of) cools just fine in SWFL.

[Tinker]

I been thinking of getting a brassworks for my 28. Hows the fit? Someone mentioned the radiator shell brackets didn't line up well. some truth to that statement?

[Bob-A]

I live in West central Florida and my '29 phaeton about a year before I sold it had an over heating problem. So I bought one of the 10FPI Brassworks radiators. No more overheating problem, but the damn think
did not fit right and it leaked! I was so mad that I let it go and it eventually stopped leaking on its own. My bud who I sold the car to
(and yes I did tell him about the earlier leak) recently had the leak repaired at a good local shop. I have acquired a '29 Roadster
with a Brassworks radiator and it also does NOT fit right either. Try and
keep your original radiator and just have the core replaced. I do not
recommend Brassworks radiators at all!

Bob-A

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have had the same experience as Bob on a truck radiator. My first choice would be to use Berg's radiator core and your old tanks and frame.

[Tinker]

Huh, that's two. How bad was it off?

The site says:

What is the difference between a Brassworks Model A and others reproductions?

* Our 28-29 top tanks are made from three die stamped parts like Fords
* Our top tank dies stamp the correct direction with the correct pattern
* Our top tanks are heavier gauge brass
* Our sidewalls are galvanized steel to prevent rust
* Our tubes in our cores are lock seam welded for strength
* Our elongated tube has 3x's the surface area for better cooling
* Our 28-29 inlet has the correct funnel neck
* Our radiators have the wire harness tabs
* Our radiators have internal top tank baffles
* Our paint is the same flat black paint Ford used
* Our solder lines are clean and not gobbed on
* Our radiators are tested for fit with original shells
* Our radiators pressure tested for leaks and quality checked throughout

I am sure they are top notch radiators. $600 for the 10fpi. Was there a lot of variances in fords radiators that would make it difficult to reproduce the shell brackets accurately?

I have been told that ford 38-39 trucks front fenders could be inconstant and needed massaging on the line.

[Bob-A]

Brassworks might make "top notch" radiators, but the one I got for the
phaeton wasn't! Also, they do NOT use rivits and solder on the top
tank and inlet funnel like Ford did. They only use solder. The mods needed to make everything fit right. Would mostly have to be in the brackets where the cover fits and the tabs on the radiator that the radiator rests on where it bolts to the frame. With their sales pitch
and cost I would think they could get it right?!?! It is a big PIA to
install the radiator and then have to disassemble everything to guess-
to-mait the mods needed then to try again, etc., etc. But, hey, ain't
this part of the joy of driving and working on our beloved "A" ?!?

Whatever...... I'm with Tom on Berg's. I've heard other people talk
good about them too.

Bob-A

[Chris in WNC]

1. Original radiators have worked great for me in Florida heat.
you did not mention why you believe it needs replaced.
if its only dirty, have it professionally cleaned and save your money.

2. Bergs Radiator had radiators at the French Lick meet that looked GREAT.
bergsradiator.com

3. have seen both good and bad reviews on line of Brassworks. lately seems mostly good reviews so maybe they are making them better than before.

[Calahan]

Hello Chris. I purchased my car with the original radiator. In the past, somebody removed several fins for repair work. Doesn't look very good. I would like to replace it with an 6fin dimple original look. I want to keep it looking all original. I read good and not so good reviews on BrassWorks Radiator. I also read many members suggest Bergs Radiator for a re-core.

[Tinker]

Calahan I hope you don't take offense to my postings in your thread. I hope you find my questions helpful for you as much as they are helpful for me.

[Glenn of northport]

I bought aBrassworks it now is great but i did have to send it back as the lower drain was on wrong they corrected it,let them know it is for a 28 and make sure lower drain is correct. I had no problem with rest of the fit.Yes i know the long drain pipe is not the same as 29. Glenn of Northport

[Mike V. Florida]

Last we heard an original cap will not fit the Brassworks neck without reworking the metal on the neck. They did say it sould me worked out when they run out of their present stock and order new.

[Tinker]

Thanks Mike and everyone. Undecided at this point.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Last we heard an original cap will not fit the Brassworks neck without reworking the metal on the neck. They did say it sould me worked out when they run out of their present stock and order new.

It's not the cap, it's just the original accessories like the quail and the Motometer.


https://fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.p...13&postcount=4

[Calahan]

Thanks Tinker, I appreciate honest feedback from everybody on the radiator. Thats a positive ingredent that makes this site Good,,,,,Calahan

[Ronnie Lawson]

SIZE DOES MATTER
I am restoring a 1929 (late 1929) Town Sedan. The radiator is 7/8 inch too low. I have contacted the manufacture and we are trying to determine why it is so low. See the attached picture.
I noted that the model a frame has changed the front cross member height at the radiator mounting surface. I have measured 3/8 inch between frames that can be used on a late 1929 body. Flush on a early 28-29 frame and 3/8 recessed on a late 29 frame. You can put a put a 30-31 frame under a 28-29 body. I also have the short water neck on the engine. My motor mount is drawn down to a 1/32 inch between front motor mount springs. I also have the 1/8 inch pad under the radiator mounting surface.

0216111732.jpg

0217111707a.jpg

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Glenn of northport

I bought aBrassworks it now is great but i did have to send it back as the lower drain was on wrong they corrected it,let them know it is for a 28 and make sure lower drain is correct. I had no problem with rest of the fit.Yes i know the long drain pipe is not the same as 29. Glenn of Northport

I don't have my 1929 parts book with me, but if you are talking about the water return pipe from the radiator to the side of the engine block, it should have the bend closer to the radiator and should be the same for all of the 1928's and 1929's, then in 1930 with the taller radiator, the bend is close to the center of the pipe.

[Dan Partain]

Do you have Float O Motor motor mounts? Those can put the engine at an odd angle.

[Ronnie Lawson]

Mr. Dan,
I do have the float-a-motor on the rear of the motor. The front motor mount is the regular model a motor mount and it is at the correct height. I pulled down the front motor mount springs to a 1/32 inch gap between the springs.
The angle on the ruler looks good.
0216111732.jpg
Thanks
Ron

[Earle]

My '31 Roadster, with its original radiator, was overheating in 90 deg. temps last summer. The tubes, fins and leaking tanks were too far gone to spend repair and cleaning money on. So I went for the BrassWorks 6 FPI, dimpled version.

But - having heard stories here about some "fit problems" with BrassWorks, I gave them a call and talked with the owner. Outspoken, fair, up-front guy. And very knowledgible about his product, the materials and processes and the heat transfer technology behind it. He didn't have to remind me, but he did anyway, that hardly any two Model A's are exactly alike, and having a garranteed "one-size-fits-all" configuration is nearly impossible. especially radiator shells and the variations in mounting tab locations (as was my case).

So, he very generously offered to use my original radiator as a pattern to locate all of the shell and frame mounting holes and the filler neck (I pay the shipping). OR - I could FAX him sketches showing the dimensions from my radiator and he'd match them. And THEN - he said if I still have fit problems, return the radiator (I pay shipment) and he'll make the instructed corrections.

I sent him the sketches and he sent me a beautiful new radiator that fit perfectly. And he even accelerated delivery a bit to help me get ready for an up-coming car show.

The quality and performance is everything that they advertise - and more. No more overheating even in 95 deg. temps. I used a remote digital thermometer to "map" the temperatures on the old vs the new radiator at operating temp. and there was a BIG improvement and more evenly-spread temps on the new one. I could detect the completely blocked tubes in the old radiator.

How much more fair and professionally decent can a business get? I have to strongly recommend BrassWorks - but TALK with them! Don't just order a "standard" catalog number and expect a miracle!

Big buck$ but well worth it to me for all the other "no-compromise" expenses I've incurred over the years of restoration on my car. I ain't gonna start cutting corners now.

Earle

[Mike V. Florida]

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Originally Posted by Ronnie Lawson

SIZE DOES MATTER
I am restoring a 1929 (late 1929) Town Sedan. The radiator is 7/8 inch too low. I have contacted the manufacture and we are trying to determine why it is so low. See the attached picture.
I noted that the model a frame has changed the front cross member height at the radiator mounting surface. I have measured 3/8 inch between frames that can be used on a late 1929 body. Flush on a early 28-29 frame and 3/8 recessed on a late 29 frame. You can put a put a 30-31 frame under a 28-29 body. I also have the short water neck on the engine. My motor mount is drawn down to a 1/32 inch between front motor mount springs. I also have the 1/8 inch pad under the radiator mounting surface.

Attachment 33093

Attachment 33094

Does the hood fit well?

[Ronnie Lawson]

Mr. Mike,
I have not tried the hood. The hood is not quite ready to install.
I will be trying to install it in about another week.
Ron

[Fred]

Prepare for a LONG day !!!

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Ronnie Lawson

Mr. Mike,
I have not tried the hood. The hood is not quite ready to install.
I will be trying to install it in about another week.
Ron

The reason i ask is that the radiator seems a little far from the fan. If the radiator was brought forward it looks like from the picture that the tube would then line up.

[Paul from Maine]

Originally Posted by Calahan

Hello Paul, Did you install the 6 fins per inch or the 10 fins per inch radiator?

10 fins per inch. I am very happy with the radiator. It fit perfectly. My car has never been restored, so the Brassworks radiator must be made to stock specs. I would buy from them again in a heartbeat!