> Radiator Question for Florida Resident <

[Calahan]

Hi Guys, Its time to replace my original radiator for my 1931 coupe. Still running the original engine with a 2-blade fan.
I am interested in the BrassWork D30-31FT with 6FPI, It looks nice and I would like to keep the dimple original look.

Question is, can the 6FPI withstand the heat in Florida ?

Thanks Calahan

[J Franklin]

These are some of the best made radiators around, if they won't do the job what will?

[Mike V. Florida]

Before my fan wiped it out my stock '31 radiator it worked fine in the south florida heat with water and rust preventive.

[Paul from Maine]

Installed a Brassworks radiator last summer in dog days of August. Had to put in a thermostat to get the engine up to a cool normal temp. Without the stat, the higest temp I could get was 135.

[Calahan]

Originally Posted by Paul from Maine

Installed a Brassworks radiator last summer in dog days of August. Had to put in a thermostat to get the engine up to a cool normal temp. Without the stat, the higest temp I could get was 135.

Hello Paul, Did you install the 6 fins per inch or the 10 fins per inch radiator?

[rdscouple]

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I'd rather run the 10 fins per inch with a thermostat than worry about the 6 fins doing an adaquate job.

[TomW]

My 6 FPI radiator (which has been in the truck for over 45 years that I know of) cools just fine in SWFL.

[Tinker]

I been thinking of getting a brassworks for my 28. Hows the fit? Someone mentioned the radiator shell brackets didn't line up well. some truth to that statement?

[Bob-A]

I live in West central Florida and my '29 phaeton about a year before I sold it had an over heating problem. So I bought one of the 10FPI Brassworks radiators. No more overheating problem, but the damn think
did not fit right and it leaked! I was so mad that I let it go and it eventually stopped leaking on its own. My bud who I sold the car to
(and yes I did tell him about the earlier leak) recently had the leak repaired at a good local shop. I have acquired a '29 Roadster
with a Brassworks radiator and it also does NOT fit right either. Try and
keep your original radiator and just have the core replaced. I do not
recommend Brassworks radiators at all!

Bob-A

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have had the same experience as Bob on a truck radiator. My first choice would be to use Berg's radiator core and your old tanks and frame.

[Tinker]

Huh, that's two. How bad was it off?

The site says:

What is the difference between a Brassworks Model A and others reproductions?

* Our 28-29 top tanks are made from three die stamped parts like Fords
* Our top tank dies stamp the correct direction with the correct pattern
* Our top tanks are heavier gauge brass
* Our sidewalls are galvanized steel to prevent rust
* Our tubes in our cores are lock seam welded for strength
* Our elongated tube has 3x's the surface area for better cooling
* Our 28-29 inlet has the correct funnel neck
* Our radiators have the wire harness tabs
* Our radiators have internal top tank baffles
* Our paint is the same flat black paint Ford used
* Our solder lines are clean and not gobbed on
* Our radiators are tested for fit with original shells
* Our radiators pressure tested for leaks and quality checked throughout

I am sure they are top notch radiators. $600 for the 10fpi. Was there a lot of variances in fords radiators that would make it difficult to reproduce the shell brackets accurately?

I have been told that ford 38-39 trucks front fenders could be inconstant and needed massaging on the line.

[Bob-A]

Brassworks might make "top notch" radiators, but the one I got for the
phaeton wasn't! Also, they do NOT use rivits and solder on the top
tank and inlet funnel like Ford did. They only use solder. The mods needed to make everything fit right. Would mostly have to be in the brackets where the cover fits and the tabs on the radiator that the radiator rests on where it bolts to the frame. With their sales pitch
and cost I would think they could get it right?!?! It is a big PIA to
install the radiator and then have to disassemble everything to guess-
to-mait the mods needed then to try again, etc., etc. But, hey, ain't
this part of the joy of driving and working on our beloved "A" ?!?

Whatever...... I'm with Tom on Berg's. I've heard other people talk
good about them too.

Bob-A

[Chris in WNC]

1. Original radiators have worked great for me in Florida heat.
you did not mention why you believe it needs replaced.
if its only dirty, have it professionally cleaned and save your money.

2. Bergs Radiator had radiators at the French Lick meet that looked GREAT.
bergsradiator.com

3. have seen both good and bad reviews on line of Brassworks. lately seems mostly good reviews so maybe they are making them better than before.

[Calahan]

Hello Chris. I purchased my car with the original radiator. In the past, somebody removed several fins for repair work. Doesn't look very good. I would like to replace it with an 6fin dimple original look. I want to keep it looking all original. I read good and not so good reviews on BrassWorks Radiator. I also read many members suggest Bergs Radiator for a re-core.

[Tinker]

Calahan I hope you don't take offense to my postings in your thread. I hope you find my questions helpful for you as much as they are helpful for me.

[Glenn of northport]

I bought aBrassworks it now is great but i did have to send it back as the lower drain was on wrong they corrected it,let them know it is for a 28 and make sure lower drain is correct. I had no problem with rest of the fit.Yes i know the long drain pipe is not the same as 29. Glenn of Northport

[Mike V. Florida]

Last we heard an original cap will not fit the Brassworks neck without reworking the metal on the neck. They did say it sould me worked out when they run out of their present stock and order new.

[Tinker]

Thanks Mike and everyone. Undecided at this point.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Last we heard an original cap will not fit the Brassworks neck without reworking the metal on the neck. They did say it sould me worked out when they run out of their present stock and order new.

It's not the cap, it's just the original accessories like the quail and the Motometer.


https://fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.p...13&postcount=4

[Calahan]

Thanks Tinker, I appreciate honest feedback from everybody on the radiator. Thats a positive ingredent that makes this site Good,,,,,Calahan