'29 A Engine Out, Now What?

[MartyAndrew]

Thanks for all the tips. I checked my frame with a tight string and blocks like Mr. Rogers said to and and if there was a 1/16" gap at the biggest spot that's all there was, so I'm leaving it as-is. Got it ready for priming and painting now, I think.
Question: I have received recommendations for Model A detail books by Les Pearson and Les Andrews. Has anyone reviewed both, and any views on which is better? Best I can tell, Mr. Andrews uses illustrations and Mr. Pearson uses pictures but both claim to contain good info for a beginner.
Finally, I've added my state. I hope they don't add a requirement for lots of personal detail. I've had my credit card number stolen and used, check amounts changed and cashed, and I'm a bit hesitant about putting personal information about myself on the web. I hope the forum understands and doesn't hold it against me as I continue to ask for help on this giant project.
Best regards to all.

[MartyAndrew]

Hi again. So, I took off the crank pulley and it does appear to be aluminum. A nice die-cast part I might add, but surely aluminum. And yes, the hole is drilled through the pulley, the crank and the crank bolt. I found a few pieces of a cotter pin in the hole in the bolt and the pulley face is now scored where the washers spun when the cotter pin sheared and it was still running last time I ran it.
I'll check for the slinger as Mr. Rogers said, and I guess I'll have to get a new pulley. It mates to another aluminum part that's still on the crank. I'm guessing I'll need to replace that too when I get a new pulley. Is the 2-piece pulley the recommended way to go?
Also, there are two washers that were under the crank bolt head. They are obliterated. It seems like they were some sort of steel-clad copper or brass material. Were these added shims to try to clamp the pulley? (I know, this will be easier when I get my book from Les Andrews or Pearson...)
I've attached pictures of the pulley, crank end, ratchet nut and washers. Any comments are welcome.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd buy an original one piece pulley and crank bolt.

[James Rogers]

Tom has it right. Get a new one piece pulley and make sure thew slinger is in place and a new bolt. Don't use the washers, they should not be needed if all is correct. When you install the new pulley, you should be able to feel it being just a little longer than the crank. Tighten the new crank bolt with an impact wrench and you will be good to go.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Be careful with that impact gun! I have see two new repop one piece pulleys split from too much force!

[MartyAndrew]

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Is there actually a torque spec for the ratchet nut?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by MartyAndrew

Is there actually a torque spec for the ratchet nut?

Not a factory suggest torque spec. Just opinions from mechanics.

[Joe K]

Heh. I've got a Model A engine which has been drilled for a cross bolt (1/4-20) on the crankshaft pulley.

I'm going to ignore the holes and keep going back to original.

Joe K

[700rpm]

You don't have to give any personal information, not even your location, and certainly not any financial information. But your location helps us refer to resources and people near you.

Regarding books, I haven't seen Pearson's, but I have Andrews' and read it all the time. Not everything is explained or correct in that book, so it helps to have a cross reference or two. The Service Bulletins are the best thing, I think.